Radius arm bushings/ best way to replace.

[tml]

I have to replace my bushings at the back of the radius arms( round bushings from the frame) Can I do this without taking the whole front end off? If I took the tie rods off and wedge a bottle jack between frame and front diff, leaving the coils on. Would they bend enough to give me room to slide the bushings in?

 

[Madgyver]

Do it the right way and you won't have any problems.

This would be my plan of attack.
Remove wheels
unbolt tracbar at frame, May need to remove tierod to pitman also.
remove shocks and drop axle to remove springs
remove nut on radius arms and unbolt one side of c-caps
Now you'll have enough play to work the radius arms.
A rolling hydraulic jack under the front axle will help to move it around.

The radius arms are angled towards the center of the rig which makes it difficult to pull out one piece without damaging the threads on the radius arm ends.

reverse procedure to install,
watch out for the dredded bronco lean when tightening the bolt.
good luck,
madgyver

 

[blubuckaroo]

I tried to do it one time by just taking the nust off the donuts and pulling the axle forward using a cable come-along pulling from the front frame horn. Thought I was gonn pull it apart. Didn't work! Just drop the whole thing down. You probably need to replace the "C" bushings anyway. Even poly won't last forever.

 

[brixter]

I would just pull it all down and replace all my bushings at the same time and save you from having to it again later. Nothing worse than doing two or three times. Its easier to pull it all off then fighting it. Springs , shocks radius arms and pitman arm .

 

[tml]

I'm a little concerned about about screwing up my alignment.
By tightening the bolts too much, this would cause the bronco to lean???? Would'nt putting new bushings in prevent this from happening?

 

[blubuckaroo]

I'm a little concerned about about screwing up my alignment.
By tightening the bolts too much, this would cause the bronco to lean???? Would'nt putting new bushings in prevent this from happening?

There is a lot of thread about the lean problem. There is also some supplier advice. It's not the torque on the bolts since those should be torqued to spec. If you have experienced the lean and it can't be fixed by tightening the radius arm caps evenly with the radius arms both at the same level the first time, you could just have one weak spring. In my opinion that is usually the case. If you aren't changing springs, and you don't lean now, you probably won't run into that problem.

 

[airman]

If you have a forklift available that will help you. I like to have the front end almost a low rider to stab the arms at the rear mount. Make sure you have ratchet straps too to help get the nut started on the arms. Its not a hard job but there are zero corners to cut.

 

[tml]

If you have a forklift available that will help you. I like to have the front end almost a low rider to stab the arms at the rear mount. Make sure you have ratchet straps too to help get the nut started on the arms. Its not a hard job but there are zero corners to cut.

Ratchet straps to get the nuts started???Sorry Don't understand. I figured I'd just put a socket on the nut and loosen.

 

[brixter]

Ratchet straps to get the nuts started???Sorry Don't understand. I figured I'd just put a socket on the nut and loosen.

He means , if you remove them try ratchet straps to help start the nuts back on to the radius arm ends at the frame .

tml , The Bronco front end is not a real mystery . I have very limited mechanical skills and I have had my front end off several times for various reasons. 2 Different lifts , dana 30 to Dana 44 swap and bushing changes. It always took me less than a weekend or an afternoon by myself .
The only special tool needed is a pitman arm puller and a impact wrench is almost always needed to get the radius arm C cap bolts off.
The only part I hate is trying to reinstall the track bar and it would help to have an extra set of hands to get that on . Get a new set of bushings for that while your at it.

 

[tml]

He means , if you remove them try ratchet straps to help start the nuts back on to the radius arm ends at the frame .

tml , The Bronco front end is not a real mystery . I have very limited mechanical skills and I have had my front end off several times for various reasons. 2 Different lifts , dana 30 to Dana 44 swap and bushing changes. It always took me less than a weekend or an afternoon by myself .
The only special tool needed is a pitman arm puller and a impact wrench is almost always needed to get the radius arm C cap bolts off.
The only part I hate is trying to reinstall the track bar and it would help to have an extra set of hands to get that on . Get a new set of bushings for that while your at it.

Thanks brixter.
I thought that maybe if I took the track bar off and disconnected the the front drive shaft. The springs would bend enough to give me the clearence I needed to get the radius arms out. Thanx for the response I'll figure it out.

 

[76 bronco J]

,,,,, one other little tip...... if installing poly bushings don't tighten the pivot bushings at the frame end to the factory specs for the rubber bushings ... the factory calls for 80-120 ft.lbs while the poly bushings only require about 25-30ft.lbs(in my trial & error testing) of preload to prevent the front end from doing the walking motion & letting them pivot easy.........

 

[Broncojoe1972]

I'm glad this post came up. I actually started mine last night...I was going to replace the "C" bushings too. However, I dropped the axel and coil springs without removing/unhooking any of the track bar stuff. I've been putting PB Blaster on all the nmuts and bolts getting them ready to take off.

I'm trying to correct a "sway" / bumpstear problem going down the road....

 

[airman]

What I meant was strapping the front end to the rear end and pulling it in untill you get one nut started, then do it again on the other side. They have always wanted to fight me going in the holes on the frame. The strap keeps you from lossing any progress. Be carefull not to pinch a brake line on the rear.

 

[blubuckaroo]

What I meant was strapping the front end to the rear end and pulling it in untill you get one nut started, then do it again on the other side. They have always wanted to fight me going in the holes on the frame. The strap keeps you from lossing any progress. Be carefull not to pinch a brake line on the rear.

You must be a wild man! Careful there.

 

[airman]

Thats what my beer mug says.

Are you telling me that you get enough threads through the frame mount to just add bushing, washer and start the nut without some help? Getting them in the hole is easy, getting a nut started with washer is not in my experience. Maybe its because I have drop rear mounts.

 

[tml]

I'm glad this post came up. I actually started mine last night...I was going to replace the "C" bushings too. However, I dropped the axel and coil springs without removing/unhooking any of the track bar stuff. I've been putting PB Blaster on all the nmuts and bolts getting them ready to take off.

I'm trying to correct a "sway" / bumpstear problem going down the road....

That's why I'm somewhat hesitant and trying to get my facts in order before pulling everything apart and replacing these bushings. I'm doing a frame up on her. The body is on a rottisserie. It's a perfect oppurtunity to get the job done now rather than later.