Ram Assist Steering - Tie Rod or Drag Link Mount

[Jeff10]

Hey,

I'm getting ready for installation of a PSC ram assist cylinder.

I have read quite a few posts, as well as some of the vendor information about mounting the ram.

A few questions:

1. I am leaning toward installing the ram fixed to the passenger side (probably to the track bar riser bracket) and the rod end attached to the tie rod. I have read about either attaching the rod end to the tie rod or the drag link. I am thinking it would be best to make the cylinder travel parallel to the steering component travel... which points me to the tie rod. Just curious if anyone has installed it to the drag link. Any thoughts... good or bad?

2. I have seen diff covers with mounting brackets welded to them for securing the ram. Makes the installation a little easier. Just wondering about the stress on the cover and if the constant cycling would make it tougher to keep the seal on the cover from leaking. Any experience?

3. Instead of welding tabs to the tie rod (or drag link), I was considering using a bracket to attach the rod end of the cylinder to the member. I can see benefits to both welding and using a bracket. Here's a link to a bracket type that has been used. (I'm not sure that this bracket will work with the DOM tubing on our steering; but, it's the concept.):

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Fox-Steering-Stabilizer-Tie-Rod-Clamp-p-18077.html

4. I have a rebuilt Bronco power steering box that had the redneck ram fittings added. With the box installed the fittings are lined up vertically. I'll call West Texas and ask which should be connected to the right side of the cylinder and which should be connected to the left unless someone here knows. (I also have read that trial and error works, too... only two possible choices and the wrong install is obvious.)

Thanks for any advice you guys can offer.

Pictures would be great, too.

Jeff

 

[Nightstick]

I mounted one end to the riser, and just used the mounting tabs welded to the tie rod. I wouldn't mount it to the diff cover.

I can't remember off-hand which port goes to which side, but I'm sure WT can tell you pretty quick. On a side note, bleeding that setup is a pain. Put the axle on stands to do that. I can remember whether or not the ram has to have resistance to work, but that sounds right. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm and let the ram do the work to bleed it out.

 

[Nightstick]

I don't think that clamp would necessarily be bad, but if you already have the tabs I'd just use those

 

[ntsqd]

I think that a clamp with tabs welded to it is the better solution for attaching to the tie rod. Then you can put the bolt on that end of the ram in double shear, AND you aren't limited in toe adjustment by where the tabs are.

Were I doing this, in my usuall belt and suspends approach I would find a piece of tube that *just* fit over the tie rod tube. Cut a piece about 6" long, and then cut it in half at a 45° Slide them onto the tie rod tube with the square ends facing each other. Position them one on each side of the clamp and once you have the clamp's position finalized I'd slide the mitered tubes up tight against the clamp and put some healthy tacks on the mitered ends. You don't want simple rings for this. The welds will be perpendicular to the tube and in the middle of the tube that's not a good idea.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Guys,

Thanks.

One of my concerns was the toe-in. I kind of get what you're saying, ntsqd, but, if I go that route, I might ask you a few additional questions.

I don't have much tube here, so I might spend as much time purchasing the tube as buying a bracket that will work.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[bknbronco]

my dad used a similar clamp and welded two tabs to it. The clamp is nice because you can still adjust toe in to smaller increments. If you weld right to the trac bar you can only go in 360deg increments.

 

[bronco217]

That clamp mounts to a 1 3/8" or 1 5/8" bar. What size is your tie rod?
I've welded mine straight to the tie rod in the past with no problems.
Tom

 

[Jeff10]

Hi,

The tie rod is 1.5". PSC has a clamp with a bung already installed. It's a little pricey. I'm asking advice from the outfit that sold me the cylinder. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Apogee]

my dad used a similar clamp and welded two tabs to it. The clamp is nice because you can still adjust toe in to smaller increments. If you weld right to the trac bar you can only go in 360deg increments.

Very true, whether you're talking about rotating the tie rod relative to both TRE/SRE's or just one by removing it from the steering arm, but you're still limited to the TRE/SRE TPI incremen for your toe adjustment. I just helped install a PSC hydro assist setup on my brother's rig and we fabbed a clamp from DOM and some flat bar. Loosen the clamp, adjust the toe, retighten...easy-peasy.

 

[MeyerzBronco]