• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

rampage soft top install tips

LA75

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
44
Well, Got my soft top installed last weekend, and yes, the forward bow when squeezed in works fine. Thanks for the clarification with that. I know 67RT and other people out there are planning to install one, so have a few tips to make it easier and reduce frustration.
1. first, remove the styrofoam type weather strip they provide. Most of mine was pealing off right out the box. For the door frames, Lowe's actually sells an auto door weather strip that works really well. Just wipe the area with lacquer thinner to remove any oils and apply (self stick.) For the bed rails and header (bolts to the windshield) I used a 1/4"X 1"X 10', also Lowe's. On the header, place right over the holes, leaving the paper backing on, and then just drill the hole through the rubber from the paper side (this prevents tearing the rubber), then remove the paper.

2. Toss the cheap #14, grade 5 sheet-metal screws provided, and get some #14 SS self drilling instead. (need 8) you will be much happier, trust me.

3. Be prepared to bend/adjust the horizontal door frame rod to get the proper fit around the door. You will need to do this before you determine location of the vertical rod. Again, do this with the door closed.

4. Like many have said, do not drill the rear door pillar. A 1 1/2" X 3" flat steel stock (Lowe's) works great. Use the most forward hole on the bed to mount, drill the hole necessary for the door frame vertical rod, and your done. I did find use for the styrofoam weather strip here; I used a small piece to go onto the pillar to rest the vertical rod on-haha!. Best way to determine hole location is to assemble the frame, close the door, and place vertical rod where you have a good door seal. Then mark the holes. I didn't even use their measurements because each side was different. I got lucky i guess, because I didn't have to remove the lower door rubber; just compressed a little with the vertical rod. Vertical rod will need to be cut slightly. Measure each side individually. On mine one side needed 5/8" removed, the other, 1/2".

5. Tailgate rail- Their measurements didn't match the width of my tailgate. Use the 1/2", but then just center it-done.

6. I read a lot of threads where people said the horizontal door frame rod can slip out the forward bow. All kinds of remedies were out there with strap designs from the front bow to a mounting on the windshield frame. I just drilled a very small hole and placed a spring clip. A cotter pin would work just as well- problem solved without a strap flapping over my head.

Anyway, hope this helps. I wasn't able to modify my wiper motor cover, but I bought the low profile one from Tom's and was able to modify it to install my dome light.

New to this, so hope this wasn't in the wrong thread. when I figure out how, I'll post pics if anyone wants them.
LA75
 
Last edited:

DeezNCSU

Full Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
205
Loc.
Raleigh, NC
Good info, I just installed most of mine on Friday night. It's not bad overall but I haven't tackled the vertical door riser pieces. I'm planning on doing those sometime in the next few weeks, just been lazy. I also scrapped the cheap #14'sheet metal screws and got new ones from Home Depot.

Did you have any issues getting the buttons from the top snapped onto the rear bow? Only 4 of my 6 buttons line up, even when I leave it in the sun all day and pull on the fabric with pliers.
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
Good info, I just installed most of mine on Friday night. It's not bad overall but I haven't tackled the vertical door riser pieces. I'm planning on doing those sometime in the next few weeks, just been lazy. I also scrapped the cheap #14'sheet metal screws and got new ones from Home Depot.

Did you have any issues getting the buttons from the top snapped onto the rear bow? Only 4 of my 6 buttons line up, even when I leave it in the sun all day and pull on the fabric with pliers.

They line up just fine if you heat it and stretch it.....it looks way off but I got mine snapped after some work and its nice and tight and will b forever.
 

DeezNCSU

Full Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
205
Loc.
Raleigh, NC
They line up just fine if you heat it and stretch it.....it looks way off but I got mine snapped after some work and its nice and tight and will b forever.

Thanks, I'll bust out the heat gun and see what I can do.

While I'm asking, did you guys have to shim up the circular brackets that mount to windshield header in order for the side piece to clear the door? On my passenger side, I had to use 4 washers and will probably end up with 2 on my drivers side. The body didn't look torqued or anything before installation but those pieces that go over the door don't clear the top of the door without using washers.
 

tbrend

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2004
Messages
682
Loc.
God's Country (Iowa)
I'm putting mine on this weekend.

I can't find a post from a few months ago talking about drilling in the door. Does anyone remember this. They said it helped out a lot.
 

67RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
1,308
There was a thread with an image with bracket measurements and I know I saved it, but can't find it now.. Does anyone have the bracket measurements with hole locations? This is good info...
 

BronCowie

Contributor
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
8,047
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
There was a thread with an image with bracket measurements and I know I saved it, but can't find it now.. Does anyone have the bracket measurements with hole locations? This is good info...

Don't worry 'bout it... just cut a few pieces of flat stock, set them in place and eyeball where the holes go. That's what I did, and it worked great, nice fit and no leaks. You have to trim about 1/4" of the round stock off of the door-window frame piece because it will not penetrate your B pillar now rather it will just sit on top of it.

 

67RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
1,308
Don't worry 'bout it... just cut a few pieces of flat stock, set them in place and eyeball where the holes go. That's what I did, and it worked great, nice fit and no leaks. You have to trim about 1/4" of the round stock off of the door-window frame piece because it will not penetrate your B pillar now rather it will just sit on top of it.

Thanks. Your door seal looks great.
I think one person made the bracket to fit in the first two bolt holes so that it could not swivel. Any benefit in that ?
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
I heated and bent the round bar on mine,
so It would plug into the hole

Bought the brass bushing at a hardware store

7e6u3e6a.jpg
 

67RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
1,308
I heated and bent the round bar on mine,
so It would plug into the hole

Bought the brass bushing at a hardware store

7e6u3e6a.jpg

Is that bushing going into a bracket u made on a hole drilled in door post?
I just got all of my top bolts off last night. Was easy considering they were never removed. There were hawk feathers inside the wiper motor cover and the motor looked brand new including 1969 date stamp.
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
Is that bushing going into a bracket u made on a hole drilled in door post?
I just got all of my top bolts off last night. Was easy considering they were never removed. There were hawk feathers inside the wiper motor cover and the motor looked brand new including 1969 date stamp.

No. I bent It so it drops into the first Bolt hole for the hard top
 

67RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
1,308
I will post pics soon. Got hardtop off by myself and cranked up on four heavy duty tie downs. Wanted to make adjustment so I put another strap on one side , loosened the main strap and bam, the corner dropped onto my head with the 2x6 coming to a rest on my shoulder. Had to strap in back with blood pouring into my eyes. I looked like I lost an MMA battle with blood covering my face. Luckily only four stitches and mild concussion. Two hour delay at urgent care and back at it by 1pm. Top is on now but I am struggling to figure out how the end 4" pieces of vinyl fit on tailgate rail. Also, do I have to drill in snaps?

To me the fit is weird so I may not have it settled correctly. Very hard to zip in windows..

Pics coming soon..
 

67RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Messages
1,308
Ok,after a trip to urgent care for stitches in my head after a tie down failed and dropped a corner of the top on my skulk, I got the job done. I looked like someone poured a bucket of blood on my head! Sorry, no pics!

Anyway, top is on and I have a few fit issues.
I cant figure out what to do with the rear corner flaps that come around from the side at the tailgate. How do those fit into tailgate rail? Now they are flapping.
I made brackets for door seal and it lines up well, I think. HTe top flap that hangs over top of door frame I am confused about. Is it supposed to hang over or get pulled into door when shut?
I am not drilling snaps.. Doesnt seem necessary. Are they supposed to keep teh front of top centered on mount?
Rear upper corner of side window looks very wavy and I wonder if that will affect window life. Should that window sit flat??

I am blasting out some pics..

Thanks, Pete
 

Attachments

  • photo 1.jpg
    photo 1.jpg
    135.6 KB · Views: 494
  • photo 2.jpg
    photo 2.jpg
    54.6 KB · Views: 514
  • photo 3.jpg
    photo 3.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 478
  • photo 4.jpg
    photo 4.jpg
    115.6 KB · Views: 453
  • photo 5.jpg
    photo 5.jpg
    130.9 KB · Views: 435
Top