Rear axle bearing and seal replacement

[work765]

Just double checking before i do this..

is this all i need to do it? i see on WH's website they have tapered bearings, aren't those better?

Orielly's has this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/514003.oap?keyword=514003

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/51098.oap?ck=Search_51098_-1_2889&keyword=51098

Thanks guys!

 

[Apogee]

Your bearings need to match your axles, so if you're currently running the Timken/National/etc #514003 [SKF#88128R(A/B)] bearings, then I would suggest that you continue to do so.

The SET20 tapered roller bearings have a 1.562 ID versus 1.531 for the ones noted above, so unless you're running one of the aftermarket bearing options, the axles are sized for one or the other, but not both.

 

[work765]

I don't know what's in there to be honest. I just know it's a 1976. Supposed to be big bearing.

It doesn't have locking differentials. So probably it has stock axles(assumption).

The front bearing that I replaced recently had a timken in it. I'm not sure if that's stock from Ford. Or if the previous owner changed out the bearings.


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[DirtDonk]

Timken could have come stock on at least some EB's (they've been an OE supplier for half of forever!) but they're easy to buy over the counter too, so could be swapped in as well.

You should have those parts you listed as long as it hasn't been changed. I would buy them on that assumption, but the only way you'll know for sure is when you pull the axle.

Good luck. Most are still the original stuff, so you're likely on the right track.
Be careful removing the old seals. The surface of the housing likes to nick and scratch and leak. A little extra silicone around the outside surface of the seal can help.
Might make it harder to remove the next time, but I'd rather fight it later than have a leak sooner!

Paul

 

[work765]

Paul

Thanks Paul!
I'll get those and start figuring out the game plan.
Need to buy grease and silicon as well.

I'm sure plenty of messages to come with what I encounter and can't figure out.

Thanks for all the help on the front bearing btw!! Now to the rear

 

[DirtDonk]

No problemo. Glad you're replacing those pesky things too!
Too many of the old originals running around on unsuspecting Broncos for my liking. Always glad when another set gets put down and new ones take their place.

Paul

 

[work765]

Do you grease the bearing? Just got it from Oriellys. It looks sealed


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[JAFO]

You do not grease the rear wheel bearings. Yes, they are sealed.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, sealed. And that's why they need periodic replacement. The inner seal you're replacing keeps the gear lube in the housing, and the bearing grease and bearings eventually just wear out.

The uprated Set-20's that we talk about are the open tapered rollers that get lubed from the gear lube. They should not be used on stock axles as mentioned, but in theory could last the life of the truck.
Luckily(?) the seals eventually wear out and start to leak. That's your cue to replace the bearings, as the new seals are literally part of the inner bearing race and it all gets replaced as a unit.

For most of us, replacing the stock bearings is a one-time deal, as most EB's don't get many miles put on them in a year anymore. But for reference, should you ever get to 100k miles on the new bearings, replace them again. Same thing if you get another 40 years out of them!

Paul

 

[work765]

And it begins!
Pulled out axle.
Two questions.
I have some serious grooves in the upper metal portion of the housing. Not just pitting. My rag got snagged on the metal grooves when trying to clean up the inner area.

2nd. I thought the bearing seal sat in between the bearing and axle retention plate?? I discovered it stuck in the housing area and not on the axle. Is this normal??


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[work765]

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[work765]

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[broncodriver99]

In the tube is where the seal goes on the roller bearing style 9" rears like you have. It is between the bearing and retainer plate on the later taper roller style rears.

 

[work765]

every damn video i have watched has the seal inbetween!

I assume i can just pull the seal out..BUT is there some special way to get the new one back in?
Also will someone express thoughts on the gouging of the upper portion of the bearing housing?
Do i just sand that down completely with sand paper? or am i royally screwed?

my fingers are crossed here!!

 

[broncodriver99]

every damn video i have watched has the seal inbetween!

They must have all been for late model axles with taper roller bearings.

I assume i can just pull the seal out..BUT is there some special way to get the new one back in?
Also will someone express thoughts on the gouging of the upper portion of the bearing housing?
Do i just sand that down completely with sand paper? or am i royally screwed?

my fingers are crossed here!!

Using a seal puller makes it much easier to get it out but you can also work it out with a couple of large screwdrivers. Do you have a seal driver? That is the easiest way to put them back in. You can also use a similar sized socket to drive it in.

The gouging is probably from a bearing that went bad or someone removing a seal. I have seen plenty that were rough there. The bearing rides in the outermost part of the tube which looks ok in your pictures. I wouldn't do any sanding in there as the bearing is only a slight interference fit.

 

[work765]

got the seal off.. got the bearing off and then new one and race pressed on...

Now onto putting the new brake shoes on!

 

[BroncoJimbo]

I am about to do this as well. Can't remember if I ever replaced the rear wheel bearings on this beast but the right rear is toast. Anyway, I like to use Timken when I can but don't see them at the chain stores. Is National a suitable substitute?

 

[work765]

I am about to do this as well. Can't remember if I ever replaced the rear wheel bearings on this beast but the right rear is toast. Anyway, I like to use Timken when I can but don't see them at the chain stores. Is National a suitable substitute?

I'm running National in mine. Someone told me they are American. But on the bearing it says "Mexico". But hopefully better than China

 

[BroncoJimbo]

Thanks for the info re: National. I am going to look for Timken but I may just have to use the National ones. As long as they are not Chinese.

Mine was stuck in there pretty good. This is what it looked like when it came out.


Now I need to figure out a way to get the rest of the bearing out of there.

 

[BroncoJimbo]

Anyone have any ideas? Not much of a lip to grab onto. I may have to cut this out.