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Rear brakes locking up

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,930
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Without those pics we really don't know much of anything. Becoming a contributor is one way to post pics. A third party hosting site like Supermotors or smugmug is another way.

If the plumbing were backwards then presumably the RPV would cause the front brakes to drag. As we're not hearing that complaint I'm guessing it's plumbed correctly.

It occurs to me that this could be a case of a disintegrating rear hose. Is it a rubber hose or a braided SS hose?
 
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panteramatt

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
677
20260311_1726441.jpg
20260311_1726122.jpg
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,930
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Is that the correct disc/drum H-block? Looks like a drum/drum H-Block to me, but I'm far from being the expert on those.
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,795
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
That is the drum/drum H-block. It only contains a pressure differential valve, to activate break warning lamp on dash if there is a hydraulic leak.

1773418077530.png


The Ford disc/drum system uses a (discontinued) combination valve, containing a pressure differential switch (with a dual contact switch), a metering valve for disc brakes, and a proportioning valve for drum brakes.

1773418258513.png


The common replacement is the GM PV-2 combination valve that has a single contact switch that requires modifying the connector.

1773418619785.png


1773418655346.png
 

EPB72

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
1,201
Loc.
Pleasant Hill, CA
Ahh I didn't know there were 2 h blocks
that is a drum drum H block . . disk drum, prop/combination valve looks alot different, the master cylinder looks like disk drum and rear/larger reservior is for the front brakes ....If all the rubber hoses are ok and or other things like overly adjusted rear brake shoes , i;d install an adjustable Prop valve to the rear brake line circuit .there are many to choose from but a prefer the Baer brakes one as it has inverted flare ports so line and tube nuts can directly be used without addaptor fittings you find on most others ..
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,602
Since it’s been installed and run for awhile, don’t forget to check the clearance between the calipers and the knuckles.
It’s possible that, through pad wear, the calipers have gotten close to the knuckles and aren’t allowing the front brakes to do their full job.
Which could result in the rears doing more of the work and possibly locking up earlier.
Only takes a few seconds to check.
Look over the top of the tire, and if you don’t see daylight between the caliper and the knuckle, you’ve got some more grinding to do.😁😉
 
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panteramatt

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
677
Since it’s been installed and run for awhile, don’t forget to check the clearance between the calipers and the knuckles.
It’s possible that, through pad wear, the calipers have gotten close to the knuckles and aren’t allowing the front brakes to do their full job.
Which could result in the rears doing more of the work and possibly locking up earlier.
Only takes a few seconds to check.
Look over the top of the tire, and if you don’t see daylight between the caliper and the knuckle, you’ve got some more grinding to do.😁😉
Exactly what I am doing. I have a 1.5" lift coming in. When I install that I'm gonna check the clearance
 
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