Rear quarter replacement

[allenfahey]

When a bodyman gets a 1/4 panel the 1/4 usually stops just past the top of the rear glass. The other seam is usually into the rocker panel and sometimes the dogleg or the curved in front of the rear wheel. When splicing those areas they need a sleeve to properly join them. The sleeve is usually made from the old part of the 1/4 that came off.

 

[SpareParts]

When a bodyman gets a 1/4 panel the 1/4 usually stops just past the top of the rear glass. The other seam is usually into the rocker panel and sometimes the dogleg or the curved in front of the rear wheel. When splicing those areas they need a sleeve to properly join them. The sleeve is usually made from the old part of the 1/4 that came off.

Any pictures of this? I think I know what you are talking about, but a picture would be worth a thousand words here.

 

[allenfahey]

Here's one that is in final fitment. As the bodyman moves on with the repair I'll try to take more pictures.

 

[SpareParts]

Can you show a picture of the "sleeve"?

 

[allenfahey]

The bodyman is quick. The 1/4 is on so no pictures of the sleeve. The sleeve is about 3-4" long and is off the old 1/4 panel where the seams are.

 

[sellitall]

That's exactly the test that the 3M rep did back when the adhesives came out. He had a bodyman lap weld two pieces of sheetmetal together and then bonded another piece to that. He then clamped both ends of the sheetmetal in the frame machine and pulled them apart. The weld failed first, ripped right at the weld. Then they clamped the bonded pieces in the frame machine and the metal ripped near one of the clamps. The area around the bonded piece was fine. Try it sometime, it is impressive.
You still need to weld at the seams like up the sail panel or the dog leg on a quarter. It will make a line there in the bake cycle of the booth or in the summer sun.

That might be half the problem right there. Most bodymen aren't certified welders, AND sheetmetal is not used for strutural welding so though the adhesive MAY hold up against a mig'd piece of thin sheetmetal try that challange against two pieces of 1/2" I beam and see which would win.

I would still put my money up on a piece of 18 gauge fully mig welded with precise penetration over the adhesive. If it was tig'd no question it would be stronger. Way more heat control over mig process.

In sum the stuff seems really appealing for installing body panels, but I wouldn't use it to hold my roll cage together.

 

[bk005]

Is the 8815 paintable? Just wondering how you treat the outside seam of upper and lower? Do you wipe clean, or could you mask it and blend like it was seam sealer. Never tried it before, but looking at using it to for seam at upper and lower quarter panel.

Thanks,

 

[allenfahey]

That might be half the problem right there. Most bodymen aren't certified welders, AND sheetmetal is not used for strutural welding so though the adhesive MAY hold up against a mig'd piece of thin sheetmetal try that challange against two pieces of 1/2" I beam and see which would win.

I would still put my money up on a piece of 18 gauge fully mig welded with precise penetration over the adhesive. If it was tig'd no question it would be stronger. Way more heat control over mig process.

In sum the stuff seems really appealing for installing body panels, but I wouldn't use it to hold my roll cage together.

Maybe a better test would be a factory spot welded piece and the adhesive in the same pull test. If I have time I'll use our Pro-Spot and do the same test. The Pro-Spot is the welder I referred to in another post. It pulse welds each weld 4 times and the computer will let you know if the weld is bad. Just like the factory welds. You are right it is very expensive at around 20K.
You are also right about the structural use of panel bond. Panel bond isn't made to bond structural pieces like an I-beam or roll cage. In fact according to ICAR and the OEM's you can't use it on structural pieces of the car. You can use it on roofs, 1/4 panels, door skins, outer rockers, truck bedsides, some rear body panels, ect.

 

[allenfahey]

Is the 8815 paintable? Just wondering how you treat the outside seam of upper and lower? Do you wipe clean, or could you mask it and blend like it was seam sealer. Never tried it before, but looking at using it to for seam at upper and lower quarter panel.

Thanks,

Yes it is paintable but we don't normally apply paint directly on it. If it squeezes out of the seam when you clamp it wipe it off with lacquer thinner on a rag. More than likely you will get some on your hands and transfer it to the 1/4 anyway.
This is how I would prep it..... easiest, quickest, and cheapest.
1) Sand the entire 1/4 with 320 and scuff with a red scuff pad.
2) Prime the bare metal and e-coat areas only where you are going to seam seal with a 2K primer.
3) After it dries lightly sand and scuff the primer. Make sure not to go thru.
4) Then you are ready to paint.
5) Wash the 1/4 with prep solvent
6) Apply the seam sealer, wait about 30-45 minutes.
7) Then blow and tack it off
8) Apply sealer to the entire 1/4 panel, let flash, then paint and clear.

 

[bk005]

Yes it is paintable but we don't normally apply paint directly on it. If it squeezes out of the seam when you clamp it wipe it off with lacquer thinner on a rag. More than likely you will get some on your hands and transfer it to the 1/4 anyway.
This is how I would prep it..... easiest, quickest, and cheapest.
1) Sand the entire 1/4 with 320 and scuff with a red scuff pad.
2) Prime the bare metal and e-coat areas only where you are going to seam seal with a 2K primer.
3) After it dries lightly sand and scuff the primer. Make sure not to go thru.
4) Then you are ready to paint.
5) Wash the 1/4 with prep solvent
6) Apply the seam sealer, wait about 30-45 minutes.
7) Then blow and tack it off
8) Apply sealer to the entire 1/4 panel, let flash, then paint and clear.

I hate to Hijack but since you know what your doing and I dont, I have another question.

If I was going to have truck soda blasted after repair, could I paint enitire cab with epoxy afterwards, finish touch ups and seam seal with 2K seam sealer, then sand and re- epoxy, then high build, block it, then color?

Sorry to the OP if I cluttered your thread and for my abuse of commas and run on sentences.

 

[allenfahey]

I hate to Hijack but since you know what your doing and I dont, I have another question.

If I was going to have truck soda blasted after repair, could I paint enitire cab with epoxy afterwards, finish touch ups and seam seal with 2K seam sealer, then sand and re- epoxy, then high build, block it, then color?

Sorry to the OP if I cluttered your thread and for my abuse of commas and run on sentences.

Make sure you neutralize the soda with dawn and water. Rinse well and blow dry immediately. If you don't it will flash rust. Get a gallon of prep solvent, it will disperse the water so it will be easier to blow it off. Especially in the cracks and crevices. If there is a Keystone parts distributor near you they have a very inexpensive prep solvent that I use everyday. I think it's like $13 a gallon (I'm not sure- I buy 5 gallons at a time but it's cheap and does the job)

EDIT make sure prior to epoxy you sand it with 180 or finer sand paper. Also no coarser than 180 prior to 2K
Your plan sounds good but I don't know what you mean by "seam seal with 2K seam sealer"
Some definitions.....
seam sealer- goes in the seams by a caulking gun. Some seam sealers like Lord Fusor 800EZ uses a regular everyday caulking gun. Some like this uses a special double barrel caulking gun

2K primer- urethane primer that has a hardener
and sometimes a reducer

sealer- sealer is sprayed on just prior to paint. You use it on e-coat and depending on what grit you finish the vehicle in on the primer too. You apply it, wait for it to flash, then apply paint. Also called wet on wet. No sanding required. Some sealers you don't even need to sand e-coated parts. I do if it's on the exterior of the vehicle.

 

[laen461]

relace quarter panel

When replacing a partial quarter panel, since I am not going to take out all the spot welds, should I butt the new panel up against the bottom of the upper quarter or stop it a couple of inches from the top and either crimp the panel with a flange or overlay it and fill with body putty? I am not good enough to butt weld.