Remedial locking hub question

[Potshot]

Hi All,

Started my drum to disc conversion on my 75 and spent about an hour banging on the drum. I feel better now that's off ;D

Anyhow, part of the problem I had was that the @#$%& Haynes manual I was using (Trucks and Broncos 73-79) had me turning the brake release dial the wrong way. That's over with, but now that I'm about to pull the locking hub off (yes, I bought the spindle nut socket), I have to wonder if I am supposed start that process with the hub locked or free?

If there was any question, yes, this is my first real work on the WD part of a 4WD vehicle. Can someone help me up?

Thanks!, -R

 

[Doyle]

Doesn't matter if locked or not, will come off either way.

 

[rellimgneb]

I would take them off with them free. That way there is no tension on the spring. Though it isn't that stiff of a spring anyway.

 

[Potshot]

Ah, now I see what the difference is, thanks. I'm at work now and will be picking up the socket on the way home and should be in good shape to proceed. I can't tell from what I've read and haven't peered too deeply into the grease, but should the hub internals come out now with the snap ring removed or have I already entered the zone where the socket comes into play?

Thanks again, -R

 

[Cooter_76]

With both snap rings removed (the one from the axle shaft and the one from the hub) the locking internals should come right out.
BTW, I think there is less tension on the spring when the stock hubs are locked (when you unlock the hub you're pushing against the spring) but I doubt it matters.

Here's a diagram that shows how it all goes together.

 

[Potshot]

Cool, thanks. I'll be out in the garage tonite and will give it a shot. I appreciate the assistance. -R

@10 minutes later:
Actually after taking a closer look at the drawing I was reminded of the old adage about a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. I feel a little stupid but one important thing I left out was that the hubs are Warn, not stock. So after reading about the second snap ring I couldn't stand waiting and I walked down to the garage to take a look... sure enough, I popped that outer snap ring out and everything came free.

Thanks guys. A picture's worth a thousand words.

 

[blazinchuck]

I just finished my conversion yesterday...I love it,wow what a feeling it is to have brakes. I was alittle worried about using the stock MC-I think it would lock the rear before the front. But a friend gave me a f250 MC, bolted it in and all is well. Good luck,Chuck

 

[Potshot]

Okay, gonna try to keep on a roll here. Now behind the spindle nut there's that ring with all of the holes around it, easily seen in front of what looks to be another spindle nut (?) in the fine exploded view that Cooter showed us. Does that spin off with another wrench or do I maybe grab it and pull it right out??? -I don't see another snap ring in there. I could play but I'm a little paranoid about getting too adventurous around an area I'm not familiar with. Maybe I just need to get bold, but in the meantime...? In any case at least I'll know *exactly* what to do on the right front wheel when I'm done with this side.

-R

 

[blazinchuck]

that is the ring that locks both the outer/inner axle nuts together. It pulls straight off/out. I use a cotter pin tool(looks like a pointed tool that has a 90° bend in it) for pulling out cooter pins. I tool pick or needle nose might get that out. The real trick will be installing that later. You have a pin on the inner axle/adjusting nut that has too line up with one of those holes in that ring/washer. Sometimes you will have to finely adjust the nut to allow this perfectly. The washer has the line up with the key slot/grove on the spindle and line up with that pin on the 1st nut. Hope this helps...let me know if I can help with anything else...it completely fresh in my head now.Chuck

 

[Potshot]

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Was happy to see your earlier post about how much you like the upgrade, looks my timing was good!

@10 minutes later...
Sure enough, I took two pairs of needle nose pliers and grabbed a set of holes on either side and out she came. The socket definitely fit the second spindle nut better, not sure why. Everything's off now and I should be in good shape.

The nice thing about this thread is that I'm sure the next newbie will get a lot out of it. Thanks for the tip Chuck.

 

[Hawkdoc]

I just finished my conversion yesterday...I love it,wow what a feeling it is to have brakes. I was alittle worried about using the stock MC-I think it would lock the rear before the front. But a friend gave me a f250 MC, bolted it in and all is well. Good luck,Chuck

Which F250 MC are you running. If there is that much of an inprovement I may put a new one on. Happy with the new shoes on front but if that MC is better I may be upgrading again. Learning it never ends!!

 

[blazinchuck]

I'll run out to the garrage and get that part #, be right back,Chuck

 

[blazinchuck]

my buddy gave it to me-new...but I'm sure it was bought from autozone or advance auto. it says Federated...10-1638. those #'s should be all ya need. I dont think it will come with a new rod for the back of the MC, but I played H*ll getting the old rod out of the old mc to use in the new mc. Rod fit porely, but all works great...the peddle is alittle firm for my taste, but compared to what I had-I'll take it.Chuck

 

[Hawkdoc]

my buddy gave it to me-new...but I'm sure it was bought from autozone or advance auto. it says Federated...10-1638. those #'s should be all ya need. I dont think it will come with a new rod for the back of the MC, but I played H*ll getting the old rod out of the old mc to use in the new mc. Rod fit porely, but all works great...the peddle is alittle firm for my taste, but compared to what I had-I'll take it.Chuck

Chuck,
Thanks for the numbers. Did you by chance drive it before puting the new MC on? Any hints for getting the rod out so I don't drink too much and toss tools around?

 

[blazinchuck]

Sorry, but I never drove mine...I kept trying to bleed the brakes and I could see the differance between the fluid shooting out of the rear and the fluid slowly pouring out of the front bleeders. Once all was bled, the peddle felt soft(reallysoft) and would touch the floor.

I used vise-grips tight on the rod about ¼ back from the rear housing and then pry with pry bar-bonk-came right out Chuck

 

[Cooter_76]

Which F250 MC are you running. If there is that much of an inprovement I may put a new one on. Happy with the new shoes on front but if that MC is better I may be upgrading again. Learning it never ends!!

You might want to do some searching on this forum for F250 Master Cylinders (make sure you have a beverage handy when you do, there's a lot of information out there.) If I remember right there are two different MCs that came on different years. One has a larger bore than the other. Larger bore = more fluid down the tubes and more stopping power, but if you don't have power brakes that larger bore also equals more force (don't quote me on that, I may have it backwards.)%)
The key term you want to search for is "Camper Special." That was the MC used on F250's that had dual piston calipers - some auto parts stores have the "dual pisoton caliper" term in their computers instead of "camper special."
I did this conversion back in February and went with the MC for a '76 F250. The whole setup is light years beyond my old drums! I don't currently have power brakes.
HTH!;D

 

[blazinchuck]

the rod has that darn(1use)snap ring that keeps it in the mc, that's what ya have to over come.took a few attemps, but 15 mins later-it was done.

 

[blazinchuck]

Thanks to Cooter 76 for his nice thread on doing this a while back,Chuck

 

[Cooter_76]

Thanks to Cooter 76 for his nice thread on doing this a while back,Chuck

You mean this one?

Thanks!.....er, you're welcome;D

 

[Hawkdoc]

You mean this one?

Thanks!.....er, you're welcome;D

Cooter,
Thanks for the info. Will be heading to the store for a new MC and another weekend project!