Remote fluid cooler fan not turning on.

[ET]

Hey.

Did I plum this right? Hot side out is fenderside with gauge sender. Fan controller on cool/out side. Fan is not turning on. Itll turn on if I buypass the controller. Its wired through relay. When I did search, all pix the controller is on driverside. and even derale instruction is the same. However, down end of their instructions, they have diagram like how I route the lines. Need input and suggestions on how to fix this.

edit. link to instructions. https://derale.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/pdfs/13900.pdf

Thanks,
Eugene

 

[gr8scott]

So if the hot side (inlet) is on the fender side, that's where the thermostat switch should be. Sounds like you have it on the cool side (outlet)?
Might be why it's not turning on.

EDIT: Just read that the thermostat switch turns on at 180°.
I'm assuming you're using this as a transmission fluid cooler? If so, are you running it with or without the radiator?

 

[ET]

Sorry, I forgot to state its for automatic transmission and it not route through the radiator. Trans to cooler and back.

edit. Transmission hot out is to fender side with gauge sender. Cool return is on engine side with fan controller.

Thanks,
Eugene

 

[ET]

gr8scott, your right. Ive got it mixed up. I need to swap the hoses. Brain is just not working right. Boneheaded move. Thanks.

Eugene

 

[Broncobowsher]

Is the trans actually getting hot? If there is enough airflow naturally through the cooler you won't need the fan. If you are going off the temp gauge on the hot side, well that tells you how hot the oil coming out of the convertor is, but not if the cooler is working or how hot the transmission is running.

I don't have a problem with a thermal switch on the outlet side of the cooler to run a fan. 180 is probably too warm for that, but if the cooler is cooling without the fan, why do you need to turn the fan on?

 

[ET]

When bronco is moving, temp is fine around 190. Its when Im stuck at a stop light or construction the temp will go up to 240-260. It usually take a minute or two to get up there. The 260 was stuck a construction.

Eugene

 

[Broncobowsher]

That sounds like convertor out tempertures, not actual transmission operating temps. How high is the idle set? sounds like the engine is loading up the convertor pretty hard when stopped.

You are not going to heat up a transmission 50° in a minute, you can do that to the convertor, but not the whole transmission.

In short, you are looking at a false data point. Confusing convertor out temperature with transmission temperature.

 

[garberz]

That sounds like convertor out tempertures, not actual transmission operating temps. How high is the idle set? sounds like the engine is loading up the convertor pretty hard when stopped.

You are not going to heat up a transmission 50° in a minute, you can do that to the convertor, but not the whole transmission.

In short, you are looking at a false data point. Confusing convertor out temperature with transmission temperature.

This is why it’s always best to run the temp gauge sending unit in the pan.

Mark

 

[ET]

That sounds like convertor out tempertures, not actual transmission operating temps. How high is the idle set? sounds like the engine is loading up the convertor pretty hard when stopped.

You are not going to heat up a transmission 50° in a minute, you can do that to the convertor, but not the whole transmission.

In short, you are looking at a false data point. Confusing convertor out temperature with transmission temperature.

That seems to be case. This is my first automatic that is not facotry. Im going by what folks suggested and instructions. So is 240-260 temp normal for the convertor? Idel is set at 850rpm. Second issue I have is properly adjusting throttle valve on it,dodge a518. So when you mention putting load in torque convertor, I might have over adjusted.

This is why it’s always best to run the temp gauge sending unit in the pan.

Mark

I asked this questions before I put the gauge on and most suggested to put sender on hotside out. I know on my old tow truck, gauge sender was at the pan. I might have to move it.

Eugene

 

[Eoth]

The only real question here is why isnt the switch turning the cooler fan on?
Either its broken... Or its not seeing 180 and turning on. Considering that it looks like it is an "8 pass" cooler and the switch is on the cool side, it is quite possible that the cooler is doing its job without the need for the fan to turn on. Since your temp gauge is on the "hot side" and the switch is on the "cool side" they will never match up.
Either move both the switch and sensor to the same side or get a cheap "thermal gun"

https://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html

and take a reading on the metal housing of the thermal switch when its hot to confirm if it should be turning on.

 

[ET]

Your right. I need to move both to hot side. I really dont believe a new sender would be bad not that its not possible. Plus give me chance to tidy up the wiring and redo sender mount.

Thank you all.
Eugene

 

[Broncobowsher]

850 idle, is that in gear? If so that is too high and generating that heat spike you see when you are stopped.

 

[ET]

Yes, 850ish is in gear and park. Neutral can be 900rpm. Now this is from a tiny tack that uses sender clamped on injector tubing. I cant say its dead acuate. I do notice the temp drops a little in nuetral.

And I just updated my signature with specs. I should of done this earlier sorry about that.

Eugene