Remove AUX tank and wiring

[Shimmy]

Moving to a 23gal tank soon and i've removed my AUX tank a few years ago. I've left the electric selector valve in place and just capped the line that was leading to the AUX tank. I plan to run new fuel line, so i figured i'd go ahead and remove the selector switch too. Do i understand this correct? All i need to do is not plug in the wire (noted in red) that goes from the selector valve to the fuel tank selector switch? and if thats the case, i could also just cut the prong off? Or is there a better/fool proof way? I will be reinstalling the fuel selector switch.

I feel like a total dumbass asking this.

 

[DirtDonk]

Why remove it at all? Why not leave it and use it as an antitheft device?
When you leave the vehicle, you can flip the switch to auxiliary, and it’ll run on whatever’s in the system and then shut down.
Saves you trouble, and adds a layer security.

 

[DirtDonk]

In your post, you said “I will be reinstalling the selector switch“ but did you mean “I will NOT be reinstalling the selector switch“ instead?

 

[Shimmy]

Why remove it at all? Why not leave it and use it as an antitheft device?
When you leave the vehicle, you can flip the switch to auxiliary, and it’ll run on whatever’s in the system and then shut down.
Saves you trouble, and adds a layer security

my bonehead would probably forget, i'd get a stroke, then realize "flip the switch!" I do like that idea tho

In your post, you said “I will be reinstalling the selector switch“ but did you mean “I will NOT be reinstalling the selector switch“ instead?

I meant i'll be reinstalling the stock fuel switch back in even tho is says main/aux. or i guess i don't need the switch at all if a connect some of these wires?

 

[DirtDonk]

Don’t recognize that connector.

 

[Shimmy]

Don’t recognize that connector.

yah it's like a rubberish compound. the wires all go in at a straight line then the front side of the plug is an exact fit to the fuel switch.

 

[DirtDonk]

Might be a later model thing, because they are factory color wired.
Or swapped in from a full size.

 

[Shimmy]

I guess i'll trace the wire from the selector valve back to the switch and see where it splices in. Am I headed in the right direction, that i could just disconnect that wire and be ok? I wanna make sure i'm not disconnecting a circuit or loop that needs to be in place for the main tank to work. I'll only be running the main tank.

 

[jamesroney]

I guess i'll trace the wire from the selector valve back to the switch and see where it splices in. Am I headed in the right direction, that i could just disconnect that wire and be ok? I wanna make sure i'm not disconnecting a circuit or loop that needs to be in place for the main tank to work. I'll only be running the main tank.

You are headed in the right direction. The switch, valve, hoses, power wires, and sender wires can all be removed. Also that plug thingy can go away.

All of that garbage does not need to be in, on, or near the Bronco. You will find a wire that runs from the selector switch to the ignition switch. You can identify it with a test light, or volt meter. (with the key on) Once you find it, you need to trace it back to find out where it is connected to ignition power. That's the one you want to eliminate it.

The factory rear body harness has only one fuel tank gage provision. The aux tank harness plugs in separately under the dash. You can usually just unplug it. I think the wires are colored orange, and plug in between the main harness and the gage right at the gage.

Once you get done, there will be a huge pile of plumbing, and wires that you will never need again, and never miss.

 

[DirtDonk]

Orange would be a sender wire. Power from the ignition switch would be the green with red stripe. It’s hot in on and start only. Not in ACC.