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Replacing Inner Fender

NashBronco

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:cry:I needed to patch a hole in my drivers side kick panel so I removed the outer fender.......!!! I knew I had the normal rust spot at the back where the inner fender meets the kick panel but I did t know about the spot a the front of the inner fender. Anyway, here are a couple questions:

1. Any particular vendors inner fender better?
2. Any tips for removing the inner fender? My wheel well is fine so I should be able to leave that alone. I plan on just patching the kick panel so that I don't have to remove the door post(great condition).
3. It seems like I shouldn't have to worry about things getting out of alignment if I am just replacing the inner fender. Correct? I will still probably take some measurements but want to know if I need to more mindful of something.
 

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bronkenn

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That is a pretty flat piece of metal on the kick panel. I would try to just cut out and replace the bad parts. No need to cut the inner fender and wheel tub apart if not bad. Ken
 
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NashBronco

NashBronco

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The inner fender is rusted pretty bad towards the front. Right below he hood pin. So that is what was making me lean towards replacing the whole inner fender.

I do plan on just patching the kick panel.
 

AZ73

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What's rusted is your inner fender APRON, not your "inner fender" as you also have an inner fender wheel well. It's all basically flat metal. To replace it you'll have to cut it off (drill out the spot welds) on the core support and the entire wheel well. If you're not doing any other body work on it, I'd just use some flat stock and repair the areas where the rust holes are. It's not visible from the outside and will be structurally fine. If you want to cut it completely off and replace it, you shouldn't have to support anything as the body sits on the core support and the front floor. Just drill out the spot welds and take the apron off. As I noted below, you have to leave the wheel well there as it's attached to the floor and the core support. You can drill those braces out too if you want, but it's just extra work so why bother.
 
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Cortez

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I’m in the process of doing inner fender right now. As was stated, drill out the spot welds on the old one. I got my new one from Bronco Greveyard...looks like a good fit. I got a little over eager cutting the old spot welds and cut through my wheel tub in a few spots...so just take it slow. I got a spot weld cutter from harbor freight and dipped it in motor oil before each cut to lubricate it...worked fine. Getting ready to weld in my new one today. I spent a couple hours cutting out the old one mainly as it was my first time. Also be sure to punch or drill a starter dimple in the spot weld before cutting or the cutter will move around on you.

:mad:What’s with the photos, the first uploaded upside down and so I saved a version upside down and reloaded it and it still comes in upside down.
 

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AZ73

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Opps, forgot, you have to leave the wheel well there when you take the apron off as it's connected to the core support and to the floor. Duh, it's been a few years.
 
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NashBronco

NashBronco

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Is there any reason I can't just run one piece of sheet metal in this section? Rather than overlapping the inner fender apron and the kick panel.
 

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AZ73

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Is there any reason I can't just run one piece of sheet metal in this section? Rather than overlapping the inner fender apron and the kick panel.

No reason at all. Unless in the future you want to change one or the other.
 

broncosam

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There used to be a good write up in the tech section on this exact repair.
 
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