Roll Cage Connectors

[gclauson]

I want to cut my roll cage front legs above the dashboard so that I can remove the dash without taking off the top and roll cage.

I need advice on the best way to put the cage back together when the dash work is complete.

There are a lot of roll cage connector products available, but are any as strong an uncut tube in an accident or roll-over? Or are they only for less critical items like connecting shock hoops over an engine, for example?

Gary

 

[jmhend]

Gary are you planning on putting the cage back together in the same configuration/ orientation? If so, I would suggest removing the top or slide it and the cage back a few inches then remove the dash. Don’t cut the cage. You also have to remove the top from the windshield frame to get the screws out on the back side of the dash.

My .02 you over half way there on unbolting the top anyway.

 

[Apogee]

X2...what he said, but if you do ever need to repair a cage, standard cut and sleeve works really well so long as the cage is DOM and you have a straight section to work with. If it's HREW or pipe, then you would need to get a little more creative with the sleeve, though I've had friends cut a channel down the OD of the inner tube to accommodate the internal weld seem and then plug and lap weld it in, and I would argue that the fix is still significantly stronger than the surrounding tube when finished.

 

[gnpenning]

Some good suggestions already so all give you another option. Have you seen the Toms bronco cage that uses the flat plate?

Basically it uses flat plate that bolts through the kick panel area so no interface with the dash or glovebox. There is no reason you could make a pair and weld them in. Tom's has a install video that is pretty good. Someone here a few weeks ago showed a few mods they did that should work well for you.

 

[gclauson]

All, thanks for the fast replies!
jmhend- yes, it will go back in the same position. I am just lazy and did not want to take the time to remove the top! But, you reminded me of a very important point about needing to flip the windshield down to access the top dash screws, so I may need to remove the top anyway! I could remove the windshield bolts, loosen the the bolts for the top to rear quarters and raise the front of the top an inch...

Apogee, the sleeving idea sounds like a good option if there are no off-the-shelf connectors (assuming I accommodate the dash screw issue).

gnpenning- I have seen Tom's cage and actually think that could be an option of duplicating the side plate concept and welding that in. Glad I am not crazy for thinking that might work.

 

[Rustytruck]

If it were my truck and cage I would use the solid steel tube connectors and put them up high close to the hoop so there is less bending moment in case of a flop. if removeabilty is important the floor plate for the removable legs would be bolted to a 3/4 threaded plate bolted through the floor. that way you break the coupler and unbolt the foot of the leg from the thick floor plate never removing the floor plate. its all held together by weld anyway and this isnt Nascar. Thats what I would do if contemplating the same scenario. if it were me just weld up the cage and be done with it and later cut out the legs and deal with the problem if you have to. I have never taken my Dash off. so why fix a problem you dont have?

 

[carter2772]

This is and ID tube clamp. It allows you to slide it inside the tube, weld the tube to it, then you are able to unbolt that section. I cant speak of the strength of them, I bet a lot has to do with placement. They use them on side by side roll cages, and other things. Just throwing out an option.

 

[gclauson]

Rustytruck- thanks for the comments. That sounds like a smarter solution of placing the connector high up rather than just above the top of the dash. I also like your foot plate improvement. That would make removing the legs again very fast.
BTW, the reason I want to do this is that I have a large rewiring jjob under the dash and being able to tilt the dash downward will make the connections and harness looming much easier than lying on my back and fighting with the heater box. I had originally done a "clean" underhood system where I buried the Mustang fuel injection harness under the dash and I am ripping it out and replacing with Exploder OBD2.

Carter- I have not seen that style of clamp-thanks for sending. Who sells them?