Ron Davis Radiator results

[Incognito]

My 67 with 289 and stock radiator would run at around 180-185 most of the time and would get up around 200-205 if I was making alot of red light stop and go. If I parked when hot it would get even hotter 210+ and take at least one minute of driving to come back down.

Ordered a Ron Davis aluminum radiator, brackets and aluminum shroud from WH. Installed yesterday and drove around most of the day today.

Now it runs at 165-170 and stop and go/red light trafiic is 175-180. If I park it will go to around 185 but cools off within 15 seconds of starting the motor.

 

[Hal9000]

Do yourself a favor and make sure you're using distilled water and the right antifreeze for aluminum engines/radiators. A friend of mine had his R-D radiator fail after 18 months due to excessive internal corrosion and the company wouldn't do anything to help him out.

 

[mountainview68]

Do yourself a favor and make sure you're using distilled water and the right antifreeze for aluminum engines/radiators. A friend of mine had his R-D radiator fail after 18 months due to excessive internal corrosion and the company wouldn't do anything to help him out.

X2, I had no internal corrosion but it started leaking where the core met the tanks. 500 miles and they would not warranty it. I pulled it out and bought a griffin.

 

[Incognito]

Was it from corrosion or electrolysis? Aluminum is prone to electrolysis. If you do not keep fresh coolant with the correct PH the aluminum will be the sacrificial anode. It is a good idea to use the WH electrolysis protection radiator cap and change the coolant/distilled water mixture often. Most radiators on current cars are Aluminum so any antifreeze should be sufficient. Anyone with expertise out there that cares to chime in? A bad ground can cause the defects as well.

 

[Madgyver]

A friend of mine had his R-D radiator fail after 18 months due to excessive internal corrosion and the company wouldn't do anything to help him out.

It happenned to me also but in 15 months.
Good while it lasted but sucks that RD didn't do anything about it after it leaked.
All that they could do was offer a tiny discount on another new aluminum radiator. Why? So that it could happen again and cycle the same results?

I said no way! and got a copper core rad.
Ron Davis aluminum radiators sucks, along with their customers service dept.
I spoke with Mr. Schulz and he didn't do anything to satisfy my dilemma with their product.
Sorry Incog,
It's just that bitter after taste I got buying and using the Ron Davis Radiator. I would not buy their rads again, and will warn everyone else that plans to buy and use their aluminum radiators with my experience..
Sure, racers and comp people use their stuff all the time but they may go through the stuff every season and replace it when needed. We, regular guys need stuff that can handle and be durable enough to last much longer that several months.
Post up a followup report in a year and a half or so.

 

[TOOL]

So what rad. did you use?

 

[mountainview68]

It happenned to me also but in 15 months.
Good while it lasted but sucks that RD didn't do anything about it after it leaked.
All that they could do was offer a tiny discount on another new aluminum radiator. Why? So that it could happen again and cycle the same results?

I said no way! and got a copper core rad.
Ron Davis aluminum radiators sucks, along with their customers service dept.
I spoke with Mr. Schulz and he didn't do anything to satisfy my dilemma with their product.
Sorry Incog,
It's just that bitter after taste I got buying and using the Ron Davis Radiator. I would not buy their rads again, and will warn everyone else that plans to buy and use their aluminum radiators with my experience..
Sure, racers and comp people use their stuff all the time but they may go through the stuff every season and replace it when needed. We, regular guys need stuff that can handle and be durable enough to last much longer that several months.
Post up a followup report in a year and a half or so.

X 1,000,000!!! I pissed away 500 bucks for nothing. Still kinda mad about it, but my Griffin cools better anyway

 

[mkaenel]

Okay...your truck looks like mine and runs like mine! All day long it sits at 175-180 at idle and traffic with it's aluminum radiator.

Is this to cold to run at an average outside temp of 70 degrees?

I am running a 4 core tom's aluminum radiator?

Matt

My 67 with 289 and stock radiator would run at around 180-185 most of the time and would get up around 200-205 if I was making alot of red light stop and go. If I parked when hot it would get even hotter 210+ and take at least one minute of driving to come back down.

Ordered a Ron Davis aluminum radiator, brackets and aluminum shroud from WH. Installed yesterday and drove around most of the day today.

Now it runs at 165-170 and stop and go/red light trafiic is 175-180. If I park it will go to around 185 but cools off within 15 seconds of starting the motor.

 

[Hoppy]

im running toms as well
had to cut the tanks to clear my frame and f100 box
cools about 170
Note I have a winch that blocks most of the grill
One would bet that if it was a low mount or not there it would cool more

 

[hose101]

I havent put in my aluminum radiator I got from parts train, for $130(rubbing it in), yet. But I plan on running a sacrificial anode in place of the drain. Others sell the anode attached to the radiator cap. Should(cross my fingers)deal with the electrolysis problem.

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

 

[hose101]

Here is the same one at summit $15 or so

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-32060&N=700+115&autoview=sku

The other site had plenty O good radiator info fo custom needs. Read up and soak it in.

 

[Hal9000]

I figured electrolysis might have been my friend's problem, but considering all the other people who have had similar problems, it sounds like their design is either weak to begin with and fail sooner than most, or just not suited to EBs.

Any way you slice it, if the company won't stand behind it's product it's a real turn-off for me as a consumer.

 

[cgbexec]

I bought my Aluminum radiator from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. It is a Howe (I think). They strongly suggested the zinc annode in place of the drain cock, so I ordered it that way. It better last 30 years (the original one did).

 

[TOOL]

What cap psi do you guys have?

 

[bronco italiano]

Good ol' copper, can't beat it for it's ability to dissipate heat. I was lucky to have a "tractor" core in my bronco rad. I'll never go aluminum because it's too high maint. BI

 

[Madgyver]

So what rad. did you use?

Staggered 4 core (copper/brass) and a 13-15 psi cap.

 

[TOOL]

Thanks Madgyver

 

[scsm76]

Those of you that run the anode cap from WH, does your seal? I have tried three different ones and none of them seal. When I put a normal cap on it seals fine.

 

[mtnkraus]

So far my cap (WH) seems to work well I did make sure I also used all alum. fittings.

 

[av8rds]

Those of you that run the anode cap from WH, does your seal? I have tried three different ones and none of them seal. When I put a normal cap on it seals fine.

mine didnt have any type of gasket? Well there is that thin piece of metal there but that surely cant be what they expect to seal it? Mine didnt! I just replaced it with a regular cap but now y'all got me thinking.......