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School me on Wiring and Alternator wiring

NYC Bronco

Full Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
169
Everyone talks about what a nightmare wiring and harness installs are. I presume this is mostly the behind the dash aspect and not the wiring within the engine bay correct?

let's presume I know nothing, because I know nothing. how hard is it to replace the wiring in and around the engine/ignition/starter/alternator, etc.?
What happened: I could not get a start the other day, it did turn over and start via a jump. I tested the battery at a parts store and the battery seems to be fine but their tester suggested that my alternator was not getting a solid current. the Alternator is about 5 years old so its unlikely its kaput but the wiring could be. It's some OEM from '76, some OP, some things I have had done (nothing crazy, new light harness, kill switch mod).

thoughts?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,233
Everyone talks about what a nightmare wiring and harness installs are. I presume this is mostly the behind the dash aspect and not the wiring within the engine bay correct?
Correct. Sort of...
Depending on the person experiencing their drama, trauma, trials and tribulations with their wiring, the nightmare may happen anywhere.

let's presume I know nothing, because I know nothing. how hard is it to replace the wiring in and around the engine/ignition/starter/alternator, etc.?
It's the easiest part of the build.
Well, once you get the basics down inside your head that is. Once that occurs, it's all pretty straightforward.
The problem (or one of them) is that most people get intimidated right away and once that happens, wiring is all Greek, Cyrillic and Latin rolled together and taught by their most hated teacher from childhood. I don't really know what that feels like, because I loved all of my teachers until High School. And I even liked the ones personally that I did not learn much from. But I was lucky that way...

So the key is just to figure out what does what and when, then dig in while we look over your shoulder from here.

What happened: I could not get a start the other day, it did turn over and start via a jump. I tested the battery at a parts store and the battery seems to be fine but their tester suggested that my alternator was not getting a solid current. the Alternator is about 5 years old so its unlikely its kaput but the wiring could be. It's some OEM from '76, some OP, some things I have had done (nothing crazy, new light harness, kill switch mod).
Sure, lots of them!
Does the engine start right now? Do you have a volt-meter? Not just a test light, but an actual meter?
If so, start the engine and measure battery voltage at the battery terminals. If it's less than 13v then there is something wrong with the charging system. If it's over 14v however, your alternator and regulator and their associated wires are just fine. At least mostly.

You could also have a slow drain. Or a fast one.
When you try to start it the next time, if the starter won't crank, check battery voltage again. If it cranks normally but won't start, then it's not the battery.
If the battery goes dead overnight while sitting, it can be several things.
1. A failing battery.
2. A drain such as a light bulb not going out. Broncos don't have many of these (or any), but it can still happen.
3. A short somwhere in the system that is keeping the charging system in it's "ON" mode.
4. A failing alternator that might charge just fine, but drains the battery in just a few hours.
5. Probably other things too, but those are the usual suspects.

If it does not die from sitting, but does not charge, then we'll have to test a few other things.
With the battery still connected and the regulator still bolted to the body (you do have a standard alternator setup, correct?) disconnect the regulator's connector and measure voltage at the Yellow wire in the "A" position. Should read full battery voltage all the time.
Turn the key ON (not ACC) and measure for voltage at the Green w/red wire. Should be close to battery voltage only with the key in the ON position.

So those are a few starting points to narrow down where the problem lies.
We can get into the whole "re-wire the engine compartment" thing later.;)

Paul
 

amfw

Full Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Messages
522
Engine bay is definitely easier to work on than behind the dash stuff, but electrical stuff frequently leaves me bewildered regardless of location. Fortunately for you, you've got Paul on your side ^^^ good luck!
 
OP
OP
N

NYC Bronco

Full Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2017
Messages
169
I'm gonna start by replacing the alternator harness, cheap and easy. then see whats what.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,233
You can at least buy that separately, depending on your year.
This is a '76 you said? Not sure if it's available, but you can easily check. I think Dennis Carpenter or Scott Drake reproduce them.
We don't stock them yet (that I know of) but you can check those websites to see if they reproduce the '76 or not.

The main differences are the connectors between the alternator and main harness, and the fact that prior to '73 they did not have a White w/black stripe Stator wire. This was used on Broncos to power the electric choke on the carburetor that was not available on '72 and earlier models.
Wiring-wise though, they would still be compatible with your '76. You'd just have to swap out to a different more universal type connector. We just ran this down over on FTE (fordtruckenthusiasts.com) for a guy refitting his alternator harness on a pickup truck of a different vintage. In that case he found the '72 Bronco harness and we made it work.

Paul
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Become a contributor and send us what you are using for an alternator and voltage regulator. check you block ground from the battery to the pan rail on your engine make sure its clean and tight. If you still have the external voltage regulator on the firewall make its mounting bolts and firewall are clean good grounds. make sure you have a clean good ground from the battery negative to the body tub. your voltage and alternator needs this body ground. if you run any other alternator make sure the case has good ground to the engine block.

when you buy a wiring kit for your Bronco the good ones used ford wiring colors instead of the cheaper more common Chevy wiring colors. using factory wiring colors are much easier to trace out when using a wire diagram. much easier than reinventing the wheel.
 
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