Several basic questions - version 2

[mraine]

I am doing a frame off resto. I have a 74 frame and a 77 everything else. I am building a mixed use daily driver with some light off roading in mind. My frame is blasted and painted and I am just starting to bolt stuff to my frame. So, a few questions.

1. I grabbed the bolts that hold the spring cups to the radius arms and cleaned them up and then did the blackening trick with heat and an oil quench. It looks ok but how long will that last? So a general question, not just the spring cup bolts but for the rest of the frame too. Do you guys reuse the old nuts and bolts or do you go to the hardware store and get new zinc treated nuts and bolts.

2. Torque spec on those? And all the other nuts and bolts? Is that in a bronco service manual?

3. Thread locker? Or anti seize? Or naked?

4. I have the original radius arms and the PO lost the bolts that hook the C cap to the radius arm, so he undersized new bolts and put nuts on them which of course mashed the threads on the radius arm. So I chased those with a tap and they seem ok but of course the threads are a wee bit less strong than factory. My plan is torque to spec and if they hold, call it good. Comments on safety?

5. I have a 1.5 inch WH lift and plan to use the original nonadjustable track bar. yes? no?

6. I have the y steering linkage and the boots are trash so rather than spend time or money on that, I was going to get a new tie rod drag link setup. Anybody have an opinion on the T style conversion vs the heim? The heim looks good but does it last? Can you grease it?

I have a lot more questions and will save those for a later date. Many thanks in advance.

 

[DirtDonk]

1. I grabbed the bolts that hold the spring cups to the radius arms and cleaned them up and then did the blackening trick with heat and an oil quench. It looks ok but how long will that last? So a general question, not just the spring cup bolts but for the rest of the frame too. Do you guys reuse the old nuts and bolts or do you go to the hardware store and get new zinc treated nuts and bolts.

Don't know how long it will last, but I like where your head's at. Worth checking out for sure.
I personally will generally re-use any old bolt that's still in good shape. If a bit rusty or the old plating (if there ever was any) is worn off, I simply paint them black. Easy and quick.
If new is needed I prefer new body hardware to be black, but elsewhere I use zinc plated bolts and nuts pretty much everywhere that needs a new bolt.

2. Torque spec on those? And all the other nuts and bolts? Is that in a bronco service manual?

Many of them are in the Haynes and Chilton's brand service manuals, but more of them are in the Ford factory manuals.
Plenty of us here to quote you some important ones though, so I'm sure some will be posted up as we go. Don't have time at the moment, but will look up a few for you later if nobody chimes in first.

3.Thread locker? Or anti seize? Or naked?

This is a critical question I think. Personally I used to always just put them in naked. But in later years I have come to absolutely love anti-seize. That is, wherever thread-locker is not required! I'm a fan of that now too!
In the case of the spring cup? I'd probably use anti-seize and lockwashers. But without lockwashers, probably mild thread locker.
Then again, the torque on these is normally more than enough to keep them seated and tight. Don't remember the last time I heard of one of those working loose.

Some locations will be up to you. A few come with split type lock washers or locking nuts (u-joint u-bolts, spring u-bolts and spring eye bolts for example) and those seem to work just fine. Others are not as critical, such as body bolts which now always get anti-seize.
It's nasty stuff, but I'm tired of them being so hard to remove 30 years later. Anti-seize is generally a product for the long haul. But in some cases, such as you sourcing aluminum or stainless hardware, it's an ABSOLUTE NECESSITY!
Plenty of us with galled stainless fasteners that had to be cut off because we didn't use anti-seize.

I still use locking nuts on spring bolts, but with anti-seize on the shank not for "anti-seizing" but for rust relocation. Re-locating it further down the road. I do the same thing on the trackbar bolts. Locking nuts, but anti-seize to keep rust at bay.
It's just better than most grease types are, because of it's water resistance. If you happen to have a lot of that nasty sticky silicone grease that is used with polyurethane bushings, that's probably even better.
Just so bolts stay rust-free longer.

4. I have the original radius arms and the PO lost the bolts that hook the C cap to the radius arm, so he undersized new bolts and put nuts on them which of course mashed the threads on the radius arm. So I chased those with a tap and they seem ok but of course the threads are a wee bit less strong than factory. My plan is torque to spec and if they hold, call it good. Comments on safety?

That's what I'd do. Even though it sounds sketchy at first blush, I think there is enough meat in those holes to re-create very good threads. And they're deep enough to give very good engagement.
Mine were buggered and a quick chase fixed them. I don't think they were as bad as yours sound like, but it was still a legit fix in my case.
Sort of a decide-on-the-fly thing. Only you can tell if it'll be good enough. Like you said, probably just have to try and see what you think.

5. I have a 1.5 inch WH lift and plan to use the original nonadjustable track bar. yes? no?

No problem.
I use adjustables on almost all setups because the adjustable upper eye lets you precisely angle the head to align the bolt. And because not all Broncos were squared up well from the factory.
But it's not a requirement on 99% of Broncos with your minimal amount of lift. So I say try the stock one first, then take some measurements just to satisfy your curiosity and to make sure your axle is not offset more than a minimal amount. And it will be offset due to the lift. But how much, and how it effects the way the vehicle handles can only be determined after the fact.

6. I have the y steering linkage and the boots are trash so rather than spend time or money on that, I was going to get a new tie rod drag link setup. Anybody have an opinion on the T style conversion vs the heim? The heim looks good but does it last? Can you grease it?

I can't say for Heim because none of the ones I know of lasted very long. But plenty of members here will give you their experiences. Mostly positive I believe.
But because you have a '74 frame I don't think you'll want the Y-linkage anyway. I'd go to a T-linkage no matter what. Still yet to decide which type.
Of course, you could make the Y work with the proper trackbar bracket I bet, and you're probably using the '77 front axle and brakes anyway (correct?) so it can work and is a very nice linkage for smaller lifts and tires. But I believe the simple answer is stick with the T setup.

I have a lot more questions and will save those for a later date. Many thanks in advance.

Keep 'em coming!
Along with lots of pictures!

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

^^^^^ all well said....

 

[cldonley]

I never disagree with Paul. But. I would seriously consider putting helicoils in your radius arms. They are easy to install, and bullet proof. Not sure I like the idea of putting the bolts in and “seeing if they hold”. But then I’m a pilot and an aircraft mechanic. Loose bolts make me a little queasy...

 

[jckkys]

If you put a '77 front suspension on a '74 frame you have to include the track bar bracket off a '77 frame to maintain the geometry. It's definitely different. The pivot hole is further outboard and lower. Cutting the bracket off the '77 frame without damaging it, is difficult,at least not without cutting through the frame.

 

[mraine]

The body in the background needs some work. Almost every panel needs to be replaced I think. The floor in the back and one of the rear wheel wells look ok but the rest is a mess. I might be able to save the doors.

The box on the left is the transmission, box on the right is the engine.

The front end and rear end are at the ring and pinion place getting worked on, or waiting to get worked on. They are backed up six weeks and counting.

Fuel tank is backordered, the brakes are backordered.

I am in way over my head but I have to say this is a lot of fun. Except for the waiting for parts part.

 

[mraine]

I rebuilt the steering box. It took 3 rebuild kits from toms because I kept honking up the big purple ring. I finally used a hose clamp for 24 hrs after I put it on the piston but before I tried to squeeze it in the steering box.

 

[DirtDonk]

I never disagree with Paul.

Haha! You should get in the habit!;D
Keep 'em honest.

I would seriously consider putting helicoils in your radius arms. They are easy to install, and bullet proof. Not sure I like the idea of putting the bolts in and “seeing if they hold”. But then I’m a pilot and an aircraft mechanic. Loose bolts make me a little queasy...

I can see that! And of course yours is the better method whether you're in the air or on the ground. I was thinking it's more of a "see how they turn out" kind of thing, but certainly when in doubt don't use them as-is.
I should have put more emphasis on the fixing them right part. Thanks for bringing that up.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

I never disagree with Paul. But. I would seriously consider putting helicoils in your radius arms. They are easy to install, and bullet proof. Not sure I like the idea of putting the bolts in and “seeing if they hold”. But then I’m a pilot and an aircraft mechanic. Loose bolts make me a little queasy...

safety is key, that's for sure and you make great points

 

[DirtDonk]

The front end and rear end are at the ring and pinion place getting worked on, or waiting to get worked on. They are backed up six weeks and counting.

Wow, that's a busy place. Most are just a few days I thought. Maybe there's a lot going on in the gear world these days.

Are they changing gear ratios? Have you been down that road yet, deciding on which tire size you're going to run (for sure) and since you know what transmission you will have already, changed the gearing to suit?
What transmission? What engine?

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

Haha! You should get in the habit!;D
Keep 'em honest.

Different ideas definitely keeps us thinking and coming up with better solutions

 

[mraine]

33 inch tires, 4.56 gears. I used one of those online calculator deals and that puts me at 2200 rpms at 68 mph ish.
6r80 and a coyote.