Single stage paint vs base/clear

[markw]

Question for Needsabronco, Englewood, Allenfey and other painters. This Fall I hope to be painting my '68 uncut. Stock factory Arcadian Blue. First auto paint job. Body work is done, lots of block sanding ahead. My question is whether there is any real advantage to using two stage system for a color like this. I'll be using PPG products. With a couple of coats I should be able to color sand a solid I would think. Would this be better done in a clear coat stage? Bronco will be garaged and no hard wheeling. Thank you in advance, Mark

 

[gunnibronco]

Single stage in a solid (non-metallic) can produce a nice result. We don't use much of it here (8000' elevation), because of our UV exposure levels. It won't hold up as well as base clear up here. So I don't have much experience using it, except industrial/bumpers/rims/etc. We did do a 40 Ford pick up in green with black fenders, and it looked real nice. It moved to a lower elevation, so we weren't as worried about it's durability.

 

[markw]

Thanks gunni, we're at 250 feet MSL. I'm leaning towards single stage.

 

[pcf_mark]

Single stage does not have the longevity. Bird droppings, acid rain, sun all destroy it far faster than you are going to be happy with. Sure you can foul it up and it is easier to make better but that is the only benefit.

 

[markw]

Okay, so prime, seal, sand sand sand. Shoot base coat, sand, tack, clear, sand, clear again, color sand and buff out. Kill the first person who door dings me. How do you even drive the thing after all that work?

 

[CraigS]

Single stage has the same chemical formula as clear (in the same brand) but clear has no pigments. You will not notice a change of longevity with single stage. Clear could delaminate due to UV, but SS won't.

 

[needabronco]

I've done both. My Bronco is single stage. While it does shine like no other it takes a ton of work to keep shining, and it does show a ton of scratches. Base/clear is honestly a better system as touch up is much easier. With Single stage you have to paint the entire panel unless your really good at blending, base/clear you can touch up the color and clear the panel. If you get a run in base you can fix in within the hour, clear you just color sand, with single stage you have to wait 24+ hours and hope you can get the run out without ruining the whole panel.

Good quality single stage is very expensive, where as you can buy a mid line base coat and then use a top quality clear for close to the same cost.

As for your steps, you do all of your prep, primer, and sanding first. Then spray a sealer coat if needed, followed immediately with 2-3 coats of base, then 3+ coats of clear. After 24 hours your ready to color sand and buff to a mirror if you are so inclined, if you color sand add more coats of clear as you'll be sanding a bunch of it off.

 

[markw]

Thanks for all the responses from everyone. Now that it's starting to cool off I can work on the Bronco again. My shop is an old airplane hanger, big metal box and when it's 105 it's no fun. I'll start taking pics and get some posted up for critique!

 

[mtp71174]

I have a bad habit of doing full frame off so I end up painting the whole body can be very costly. So what I do is all the body work and finish work seal it then now it is ready to paint. I shoot the whole tub with single stage cutting in the doors jambs engine, the complete body and a light coat on the outer panels and doors. The cost is cheaper for a gallon of single stage then buying base and clear. This does not only apply to body offs even if your body is still on it works. At this point bolt on the body your fenders doors set all gaps margins set your strikers and latches, fit your hood and tailgate then you can remove the hood and tailgate for ease of painting. Now with that single coat of paint wet sanding and blocking the body is easier to get it straight. Shoot your base and then the correct layers of clear. This method gives you the chance of a great job and lover cost.

 

[markw]

mtp71174 thank you for that outline. Very concise. If I read correctly you wait till the body is back on frame prior to shooting clear. All hinged parts already properly fitted to avoid dings in new finish. I like it. My tub is on a rotisserie now so this will work well. Thank you.

 

[pcf_mark]

What he is saying is blow a coat of base color in all the hard to reach spots and let is get on the outside a bit. Then bolt everything back together and line it up. Then wet sand the outside to be sure it is straight (the body color overspray makes a good guide coat) Then tape off what you do not want to paint and spray all surfaces color then clear (these go on wet-on-wet meaning you only let then flash dry then apply the next coat)

 

[markw]

Okay that makes sense.