Snake bit starter switches.

[73azbronco]

I'm going to need a fourth, in as many years, and this thing has never been run.

First two defective electrically.

This one has started refusing to return to run/on after a start attempt, ie the starter will stay on, not good.

What brand/provider you all using with good success?

And yes, dash is all bolted up so can't wait to try a switch swap installed...

Did I mention My third wiper switch seems to be working great?

 

[ared77]

Are you sure it is a starter switch problem? Reason I ask is because the reproduction starter relay (often called solenoid) is notorious for causing this symptom. They are reproduced in China and it is very common that they will close (engaging the starter) and not open (release) after you've released the key. See it all the time on Mustang and other Ford sites I visit. I've told people around here I'd rather run a used Ford solenoid than a brand new repro version!

Norm

 

[Slowleak]

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. The first one I tried was from Amazon. It had a metric threaded post and did not include the nut. I didn’t find out until I installed it. Sent that one back.

The second one I tried was from Napa. It did not activate my brake warning light. Took that one back after wrestling it out of the dash.

The third one I tried is a Duralast LS416 from Autozone. It also has a metric threaded post. I made them give me a metric nut that fit it. So far that switch is working fine but, it’s only been a few weeks....

 

[bmc69]

This ^ is why I source practically every electrical component from EBay, searching out NOS Standard Ignition Blue Streak. There is a surprising amount of the old inventory stuff out there but you need the part number to search for it. I maintain a complete, including vintage companies, catalog rack for that.

Here's a bunch of the NOS stuff lined up in preparation for a dash rewire..

 

[jckkys]

bmc69 is right. I look up a lot of parts on RockAuto to get the part number. They often list them with their after market parts for instance the '76 switch is D6TZ11572A. If you use the Ford part number in your search you give those who just have boxes a chance to find a part they can't identify. A lot or dealerships went out of business and the parts were bought up by people who aren't parts experts. The next best choice is a real parts store, not a chain.

 

[Slowleak]

I’m looking for a NOS one. D6TZ11572A is a truck switch. It doesn’t fit a early Bronco.... might fit a ‘78

You need a C7UZ11572A. Motorcraft SW-583

 

[73azbronco]

Thanks this is not the starter or relay, this is the thing you put the key in and turn to start, it won't release back to "ON" after turning key to start, unless you wiggle it back.

Will try the new old stock route, might actually have my OEM one in an old parts pile but unlikely.

This has been a 4 year fight, new parts that just don't work right.

 

[73azbronco]

NOS ignition and light switch on the way, yeah ebay.

 

[Apache Bronco]

I am thinking of removing my original to save it and replacing it with an RFID like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Igniti...=40172391847721d77abdd3b249da8bb5372cda06db46

 

[73azbronco]

Those are cool and was on my list but I went full retro basic mode to get back on the road.

 

[DirtDonk]

If you happened to replace the chrome bezel at the same time, then likely it's not just the switch giving you grief. The Chinese made bezels are not the same as original and put not only too much pressure on the captured spring on the switch, but that spring is also not square and puts some English on the switch as well.

To test this, try all the START functions while the switch is assembled, but NOT mounted to the dash. If it works like a charm out of the dash, but the same switch won't release from START when mounted in the dash, that's your issue.

Adding to that is any new paint or powder coating on the dash making it just a few thousandths thicker still.

It's a perfect example of stacked tolerances.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

Yep, have three bezels and the repop ones are just not right.

 

[jckkys]

I have several Motorcraft switches that were sticky I thought. It turns out the lock cylinder is the problem. Have you tried turning the switch with the lock cylinder removed? The lock cylinders are cheap and less of a problem or expense to replace if needed.

 

[73azbronco]

lock cylinder is new, have not tried it out, it worked when I put it in or so I thought.


My new NOS switch arrived, threads on post a re metric M5. Is this a fake or real NOS? Box looks legit but I know they fake everything.

Brand new repop from WH has shiny flat electric spades, the NOS has indents as if to lock the electrical connector in place. Just wondering what year they may have switched to metric? Below motorcraft casted boss it says RBM or R8M in the metal. Repop is smooth all the way around no markings or casting info.

 

[DirtDonk]

Can you post up pics of the differences for us to see? Hard to visualize some of it, but getting the gist otherwise.
Not sure that Ford ever changed to metric. These switches were old school by the seventies. The full-size trucks did not use them even back to the late sixties that I know of, so were probably shared with the small cars like Mustangs and Falcons in the beginning?
I don't know the part numbers, but if it's a "T" type part, it's for the truck line and may not have been used in many, if any cars.

Changing to metric was probably an aftermarket thing. I doubt seriously that Ford would have changed a part during it's run except to make safety changes. But making it so that you could not use existing hardware on the replacement part is not the usual style.
Not unless a new nut was included with all effected parts.

But hey, the world is changing, so you never know. Maybe someone thought it was one of those elusive "better ideas" we used to hear so much about.;D

Paul