Spot Weld Cutter Types...which one works better?

[Mikey]

There seems to be two basic types of spot weld cutters...a mini hole saw and a solid spur drill bit.

Which works better?

Old posts seem to favor the solid spur type bit......

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[bighorn]

Solid drill bit. I tried the mini hole saw.....waste of money. Theres a guy on ebay selling solid spotweld bits for a reasonable price. I've had great results with his.

 

[bighorn]

like this


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-3-8-inch-HSS-...ryZ50384QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[NYLES]

I'll give you a another option.... I use a unibit also called a step bit so I wasnt limited to "one size fits all" and if sharp will make you never want to drill with a regualr style bit again! Also lets you remove the complete weld.

 

[Devin]

I got a tip from MadGyver that has worked great. Instead of dropping $20 for a spot-weld cutter, just go grab a pack of DeWalt pilot point 3/8 drill bits. They work very well. I replaced floor pans, kick panels and rear quarters. I went through 3 of them. Use some lubricating oil and don't spin the drill up too fast.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW1924B-8-Inch-Ferrous-Oxide/dp/B00004YME0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202839551&sr=1-2

 

[NYLES]

Devin those aint bad but you still gotta keep changin bits, one step bit can get up to a pretty good size no need to change bits....Mad is a diffinant GURU(almost a bronco god) but the step bit hard to beat! Thast funny he fits another title I dreamed up today a he"s a "BRONCONEER"

 

[Devin]

I never changed the size of the bit that I was using. 3/8" bit worked for everything that I removed.

 

[NYLES]

The guy at Ford in 1969 that welded my frame was not the guy that welded my body I promise! AND a 3/8 probably get about 90% of em, I just love a step bit!

 

[Devin]

The guy at Ford in 1969 that welded my frame was not the guy that welded my body I promise! AND a 3/8 probably get about 90% of em, I just love a step bit!

I just googled step bit and it looks like it would work very well. I may have to try it someday if I ever do sheet metal replacement again (hope that doesn't happen any time soon).

 

[NYLES]

Im about to do "sheet meatal replacement" with fiberglass!~ all but doors, tailgate and top!

 

[Mikey]

like this


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-3-8-inch-HSS-...ryZ50384QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That's funny as I put a watch on this pending the opinions here...there's a hole saw type on eBay as well. This seems to be the way to go...........you liked the bits from this guy????

 

[Mark]

This one from Eastwood is my preference. It does a great job centering on the spot weld.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...temID=1148&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=spot

 

[RustyNutz]

I bought a blasting cabinet from TP Tools and looking through their catalog I found this one.

It looks like it would work nice with the adjustable depth stop. It is spendy at $129 but if you have a LOT of panels to replace it might be worth it.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2574

 

[JHD]

I used these from Harbor Freight. Worked good.

 

[ugly74]

I took the fancy route and used a center punch, then a regular ol' 3/8 drill bit. works really well!

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

I ended up with mill drills from a surplus store. They cost $0.025 each and usually good for about 50+ welds before touching up the tip on a bench grinder. They are HS and colbalt steel. I usually get ones with a very short pilot thats under 1/4". It will step up to 3/8 but doesnt need to be drilled completely thru. A lot of times the sheetmetal will seperate before having to go all the way thru. Just finished a one piece floorpan on a `66 Mustang. The holes drilled into the innder rockers are small enough to just fill in and grind flat. This makes ready for the pan to lay over and spot using the mig without having to drill a hole for penetration. But just one way that happens to work well for me.

 

[Mikey]

I bought a blasting cabinet from TP Tools and looking through their catalog I found this one.

It looks like it would work nice with the adjustable depth stop. It is spendy at $129 but if you have a LOT of panels to replace it might be worth it.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2574

Ahhh..not that many! Just the windshield frame and cutting off the entire front clip...in front of the firewall forward....

 

[Mikey]

I ended up with mill drills from a surplus store. They cost $0.025 each and usually good for about 50+ welds before touching up the tip on a bench grinder. They are HS and colbalt steel. I usually get ones with a very short pilot thats under 1/4". It will step up to 3/8 but doesnt need to be drilled completely thru. A lot of times the sheetmetal will seperate before having to go all the way thru. Just finished a one piece floorpan on a `66 Mustang. The holes drilled into the innder rockers are small enough to just fill in and grind flat. This makes ready for the pan to lay over and spot using the mig without having to drill a hole for penetration. But just one way that happens to work well for me.

I'd try that route but don't have a source like that....

 

[Mikey]

I got a tip from MadGyver that has worked great. Instead of dropping $20 for a spot-weld cutter, just go grab a pack of DeWalt pilot point 3/8 drill bits. They work very well. I replaced floor pans, kick panels and rear quarters. I went through 3 of them. Use some lubricating oil and don't spin the drill up too fast.

http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW1924B-8-Inch-Ferrous-Oxide/dp/B00004YME0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202839551&sr=1-2

I've used these before for normal drilling...work pretty good. I was hoping a specific-designed cutter would even work better...maybe not...

 

[Mikey]

This one from Eastwood is my preference. It does a great job centering on the spot weld.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...temID=1148&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=spot

This looks similar to bighorn's eBay bits but cost quite a bit more...