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Stopping the windshield from rocking

Banjer Picker

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2006
Messages
1,405
Guys with front roll cages, what are you doing to stop the windshield from bouncing rocking back n forth while driving? I think I remember seeing some pics of guys using turnbuckles or other rigid items between the roll cage and wind shield. Suggestions and pics would be great!
Thanks!
 
OP
OP
Banjer Picker

Banjer Picker

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2006
Messages
1,405
Hey, Thats exactly what I bought from home depot for $1.89 each! Those must be the high performance models for $59. ;D What is the best way to secure the eyelet on the turnbuckle to the cage? (windshield side is easy)
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,488
I drilled holes and tapped them on my cage

This is what I did too. And get the turnbuckles from your local hardware store, this can be done for less than $10.
 

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JohnJohn

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,179
Loc.
Richmond
I picked up a set of turn buckles from my local Tractor Supply for about $2 each.
Drilled and tapped my cage to bolt them in place. I would recommend getting a few rubber washers to use where you bolt it to the windshield so it does not damage your paint or rub metal to metal.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Why not just mock-up a plate in cardboard, then fabricate it in steel to bolt to the factory holes in the top of the w/s frame, and weld it to the cage tube?
I kinda got the idea that it was a good idea to let the windshield and cage move somewhat independently. And I see that happening when I'm wheeling. Windshield moves one direction, and the cage moves another....

I made my own from some small DOM, and a few heims. Had maybe $15-20 in it.
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,359
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
...to let the windshield and cage move somewhat independently. And I see that happening when I'm wheeling.
OK But if the doors weren't latched, you'd see them moving opposite the body, too, during articulation. IDK what effect a rigid connection would have, but I suspect it'd help more than hurt.

Frank's truck has a full hardtop but no front hoop, and he wants cage over the doors, so we're going to add removeable bars running forward from the main hoop to the w/s frame bolts. So his will be able to flex sideways a little, the way your turnbuckles do.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
OK But if the doors weren't latched, you'd see them moving opposite the body, too, during articulation. IDK what effect a rigid connection would have, but I suspect it'd help more than hurt.
The doors are pretty solid, but there's not much to the windshield frame. I've never had the windshield out, so I don't know how thick the seal is between the glass and the windshield frame. I'm just thinking that if the windshield frame is forced to go in a direction that it didn't want to go, the stress will wind up in the windshield glass somehow.

Ain't it fun to speculate!!;)
 

DuctTape

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 20, 2008
Messages
1,148
Loc.
Bozeman, MT
I have a 4 point roll bar, and I think I might stick with that instead of a 6 point.

But I like the top off in summer...

So, I'm thinking I'll build a little softtop frame out of angle iron - back end bolts to roll bar, front end uses hardtop holes to bolt into top of windshield.

Voila! Bikini top frame plus windshield brace for cheap bastards! Oh, and I guess you get a little more rollover protection while running a 4 point roll bar too...
 

green77

New Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
24
Loc.
snake run, IN
here is a very technical suggestion. 2 small dog collars attached to my soft top hardware on windshield frame to the front hoop. allows some movement but holds it snug, easily adjustable, no hardware required!;)
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
I used some 1" 3/16"s strap and bolted it to the boss on the cage and tied it to an existing bolt hole in the window frame. That way it is all removable.

I've never had an issue with the windshield frame moving around on me. I don't wheel mine THAT hard though.
 

68 Broncoholic

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
1,742
Loc.
WA
I took a small piece of 1/2" wide metal about 1/8" thick and 3" long. Added a hole on one end for the windshield mount and bent the other side down so I could hose clamp it to cage. Its a red neck way to fix the issue but has worked for the last 10 years without issues.
 

Socal Tom

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
2,442
Loc.
San Diego, CA
I took a small piece of 1/2" wide metal about 1/8" thick and 3" long. Added a hole on one end for the windshield mount and bent the other side down so I could hose clamp it to cage. Its a red neck way to fix the issue but has worked for the last 10 years without issues.

I think I can out "redneck" that one. My old roll cage had a couple of extra holes in it, the PO used to run wires through. I stuck the bolt end of a couple of bump stops I had laying around in the holes so the rubber end held up the windsheild frame to about the right height. ( I did have to "adjust" the bumpstops with the angle ginder). Worked good for about 5 years.
Tom
 

bigmuddy

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 28, 2004
Messages
8,068
Loc.
Marthasville Missouri
Little voice of caution here. I get nervous when people start saying well just drill a hole in the rollbar and run a bolt through it. If you roll your rig hard, then you are likely to deform or collapse the rollbar were you have drilled holes through it. I have a little first hand knowledge. If you are going to drill holes in the rollbar at least weld in a sleeve.

Ben
 
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