Stretching Rear Wheel Wells

[hammer]

Tossing this around. I'm running 37x14.50's. My tub is blasted and on a rotisserie and I'm coming up on completion of a year of rust repair. Only area left is many pin hole to dime hole size holes in the rear wheel wells. I have almost convinced myself to just replace the drivers side instead of fixing it. So if I'm going to do that I figure I may as well do a stretch at the same time. I've seen pics of crawlin68's wheel well stretch here;

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392&d=1119835885

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=601&d=1124172533

From the looks of it he pushed it back from the middle 6 inches or so and left the front where it was. This works if you have good metal to move. So should I just get creative, cut it all out and build complete custom wheel wells? Anyone done this and have pics? Or should I scrap it and just fix what I have or replace with stockers? Should I buy stock replacements and cut those up, stretch them and toss those in? I plan to do light family wheeling during camping trips and having a nice ride to cruise in. In other words I don't really care how high I score on the RTI ramp. I've already trimmed the bottom of the wheel wells to meet flat with the bottom of the rear bed.

 

[Tito]

I'd get 3 new wheel wells and use the 3rd to extend the other 2. Now like you said is a good time, just eliminate the rear filler and extention and stretch them back.

 

[Roadburner]

If you do replace with new ones get them from Toms. They look and fit like the originals, can't say that about others I've used.

 

[Tito]

Mine were from Tom's and fit very well.

 

[SC74]

I stretched mine similar to Crawlin68's - in fact I talked to Patrick before jumping in head first on mine. Check out the pics in my build thread link in my sig. It depends on your WB too - I wouldn't stretch them if you aren't going to move the rear axle back any. Let us know what you decide to do!

 

[Crewwzin]

I dont know how dead set you are about using factory replacement wheelwells (cause they arent cheap) but you could find your self some regular boat trailer fenders, cut them in the middle and add in some filler metal for however long you wanna stretch them out. It would have a nice rounded look and still have a flat spot on top like original for half the price.

 

[hammer]

I wouldn't stretch them if you aren't going to move the rear axle back any. Let us know what you decide to do!

Well I didn't think to much about this comment at first but then I got the tape measure out. With the lip cut off the bottom the wheel well is now 12" tall and 33.5" wide. I then measured my 37's and if I measure down 12" and then across at that point in the tire its 33.5". So really I have nothing to worry about. I'm rarely going to have it 100% stuffed anyways with the wheeling the truck will see. So I guess I'll order a new ds wheel well and just fix the passenger side one.

If I did end up wanting to stretch it I like the trailer fender idea. Would have gone that route.

Sorry guys I know this is a lot less fun....

 

[Clint]

I picked up one wheelwell from JBG and used it. I moved my rear back 8.5 and it all worked out really nice.

 

[bronko69er]

So, for you guys that have pushed the wells almost to the tailgate, where are you landing the C-pillars of the cage? (assuming you have c-pillars) On the rear slope of the well?

 

[Clint]

So, for you guys that have pushed the wells almost to the tailgate, where are you landing the C-pillars of the cage? (assuming you have c-pillars) On the rear slope of the well?

Right at the backmost part of the bed....Mine ended up right between the fenderwell and the tailgate.

 

[fdezone]

So, for you guys that have pushed the wells almost to the tailgate, where are you landing the C-pillars of the cage?

I took the opposite approach of Clint's, in anticipation of lengthening my wheel wells my runners bow in in the back.

Someday I'll get around to lengthening 'em! %)

 

[eb66to77]

That looks so nice Axel that I wouldn't weld on it. I will get a day that our Boilermaker can come down and do it. That cage compliments your truck very nicely. Now about those AT tires .

 

[fdezone]

That looks so nice Axel that I wouldn't weld on it.

She's far from perfect. I'm not too hung-up on looks. She's built to beat.

I will get a day that our Boilermaker can come down and do it.

I'll order a Tom's wheel well and a stick of tubing. I still gotta tie that thing to the frame. I have the Poly Performance Cage Tie-In Kit to simplify matters. I also need to weld on the windshied frame stiffeners. (I told you, I can't weld a little bit. My stuff's bought, not built.) :-[

Now about those AT tires. .

I need $. I'm not throwing money at my D44. I have a FW FF D60 but I need a matching frontend. Only then will I'll invest in 37-40s. We'll see.

I apologize for the sidebar. :-*

 

[Gummi Bear]

Well I didn't think to much about this comment at first but then I got the tape measure out. With the lip cut off the bottom the wheel well is now 12" tall and 33.5" wide. I then measured my 37's and if I measure down 12" and then across at that point in the tire its 33.5". So really I have nothing to worry about. I'm rarely going to have it 100% stuffed anyways with the wheeling the truck will see. So I guess I'll order a new ds wheel well and just fix the passenger side one.

If I did end up wanting to stretch it I like the trailer fender idea. Would have gone that route.

Sorry guys I know this is a lot less fun....

They're gonna rub. The tire lugs will catch the leading and trailing edges of the wheelwell at full stuff. Anything bigger than a 33 will (my 35's squeaked in there, but my 38's got cut up pretty bad)

You may also do some searching for Dusty's plans he posted up. He had a set bent up at a local sheet metal fab shop.

The trailer fender idea may work, but it'll be shallow, and look pretty ghetto if you're not an ace sheet metal man.

Ditch the rear tank, relocate the rear crossmember, and scoot the rear axle back as far as you can. The first waterfall you get on, you'll be glad you did (length gains you more stability on the trail than width) Whatever you do, keep it low.

 

[hammer]

They're gonna rub. The tire lugs will catch the leading and trailing edges of the wheelwell at full stuff. Anything bigger than a 33 will (my 35's squeaked in there, but my 38's got cut up pretty bad)

You may also do some searching for Dusty's plans he posted up. He had a set bent up at a local sheet metal fab shop.

The trailer fender idea may work, but it'll be shallow, and look pretty ghetto if you're not an ace sheet metal man.

Ditch the rear tank, relocate the rear crossmember, and scoot the rear axle back as far as you can. The first waterfall you get on, you'll be glad you did (length gains you more stability on the trail than width) Whatever you do, keep it low.

I don't think you read the part about what my intentions are for the truck. I appreciate the info by I'm far past moving cross members and relocating fuel tanks. The chassis is done.

5.5" suspension with 2" body is low right

 

[blwngsket]

I bought a Wild Horses's wheel well and cut it in half. This will push the wheel well to about 1/2" to 3/4" from the bed post. I also made a cross member out of 2x4 steel, mounted it about 6" back and cut out the stock cross member. Rear tank is almost flush with the end of the frame. I also ran the fuel fill down the bed post behind the tail light. It's tight but fits.

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31200&postcount=117

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31691&postcount=152

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31818&postcount=168

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31603&postcount=149