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surface rust question

Roli

New Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Messages
15
If I'm going to put a spray in bed liner and I scrub all of the surface rust, do I NEED to put a rust preventative like POR 15 or will the liner seal it? I don't want to waste a hundred or more dollars. Thanks.
 

Bucky

Full Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
250
Loc.
New Bern, NC
As long as you get the rust off, the Liner should seal it. At least I hope so, because that's what I did on mine!!
 

72-Madisyn

Full Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
211
Loc.
Medford
Bedliners typically do not etch to metal, you will need at the very least a DTM,(direct to metal), sealer whick por15 or ppg's DP is in the same class. Both products work the same, i believe that por15 is a little bit cheaper but dont qoute me on that, plain and simple you so need to put something over bare metal to both seal and get adhesion.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,124
Bedliners typically do not etch to metal, you will need at the very least a DTM,(direct to metal), sealer whick por15 or ppg's DP is in the same class. Both products work the same, i believe that por15 is a little bit cheaper but dont qoute me on that, plain and simple you so need to put something over bare metal to both seal and get adhesion.

I disagree here.
The bed liner bond is only as good as what is under it.
Ruff clean metal provides a good bond.
If applied over Paint the chemical reaction from the bed liner curing can do bad things.
 
Last edited:

Rob1962

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
1,692
I disagree here.
The bedliner bond is on as good as what is under it.
Ruff clean metal provides a good bond.
Paint they does who know what when a chemical reaction is happing when the bed liner is applied is not a good bond.


I totally disagree.

When you take it to bare metal, you must treat that metal before applying anything, whether paint or bedliner. Not even a finger print should remain on bare metal before paint or bedliner. The end result is if you have any contaminant on bare metal, you are begging for bubbling and/or rust.
 

72-Madisyn

Full Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
211
Loc.
Medford
I have done a number of different brand bedliners and all that i have done need at the very least a sealer under them, not just metal. That is just what i know, not trying to battle about it but in order to topcoat anything it needs to be sealed, whether it is paint or bedliner as a topcoat.
 

texashcane

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
1,028
Loc.
Argyle, TX
Most bedliner will need some type of adhesion promoter. I used a different type for fiberglass, bare metal or painted metal. the only time I did not use a promoter was on bare wood.
 

tim70

Full Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2007
Messages
257
Loc.
SF Bay, CA
I had my tub line-x'd this summer. The dealer said i needed to remove all loose rust but not treat it as the line-x material will seal the rust from water and air and it won't be a problem in the future. I ended up treating the bare metal and rust areas anyways with POR15 and made sure it was well scuffed before I took it to be lined. The linex guy said he gets tubs/beds both ways and still stood by his comments and did not see a problem going over the POR15.
 

ztoolman44

Full Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
304
Loc.
Farmington, Utah
I totally disagree.

When you take it to bare metal, you must treat that metal before applying anything, whether paint or bedliner. Not even a finger print should remain on bare metal before paint or bedliner. The end result is if you have any contaminant on bare metal, you are begging for bubbling and/or rust.

X2- Our new fire engine came in with bare steel inside the compartments that had a swirl design intentionally scratched into them (to hide the inevitable scratches). We had all of the compartments Linex'd immediately after delivery and they started peeling off after about a year or so.
 

blue bronc

Full Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
309
Loc.
Fort worth
POR makes an etching primer
would that not be a good way to put somthign on the bare metal and give the liner somthing to stick to
 

66 U14 NICK

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
105
Loc.
Spencer, WV
As with paint the end product is only as good as the surface prep. Most products will adhere to bare metal for some time, rust not so much. There are products, rust converters that also prime. If you want a lasting product do it right the first time. Some type of primer or sealer needs to applied to a clean surface. Most products will recommend a product to use, some products will not work with others. Read the label or talk to your local paint/body shop for recommendations.
 

LSUpete

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 11, 2001
Messages
2,063
Here's my process:

I ALWAYS sandblast the tub, use two coats of POR-15 and let dry for at least 24 hours, scuff with a flexible sanding block and then lay in two coats of Durabak. Check out my gallery for photos of this process


I have had nothing but compliments on the looks of the final product and I never have any problems with this process.

Trying to save money by cutting one of these steps is just asking for trouble.

my two cents.

:cool:
 

br0nc0xrapt0r

Loves pickles
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
5,437
better you put more money and effort into it now and use the proper steps than pay through the nose in steel and elbow grease later.
 
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