T-Shift to Twin Stick Shifting Problem

[Bukin 67]

Anyone ever had problems with this set up getting the front into low range?

I installed a used t-shift d20, previously working perfectly. I then installed my old twin stick with no internal mods to the d20, and can't get the front into low range.

I tried different combinations, attempting to shift the left stick forward into front low with the right stick in neutral and rear low. Also with the tranny in grear, neutral & reverse with no luck.

There's plenty of clearence for the sticks and I don't see anything externally that would prevent it from slipping in.

It's got me

 

[Viperwolf1]

The rear half needs to be in low range before the front can move into it. Then the cogs on the front sliding gear need to mesh with the front idler gear. Might need to drive forward/backward slightly or soin the front driveshaft some if it's stationary.

 

[1970mule]

X2 on that one. no workie unless far right stick or rear gear is engaged first.

 

[Bukin 67]

X2 on that one. no workie unless far right stick or rear gear is engaged first.

Thanks for the input guys. Thought I was doing something wrong till I read your posts and saw I had always been doing it right - rear low then front low, but this t/c just wouldn't go in that way.

So I tries this -

1) lock in front hubs so front gear in t/c will mesh when moving
2) with front in neutral, push right stick as far forward as it will go to engage rear low, and keep pressure to hold it there
3) go in reverse, idle speed
4) with a little backwards momentum, take trans out of reverse into neutral
5) while maintaining pressure on right stick, push left stick forward to engage front drive.

The movement of the gears allows them to engage

A pain an the a$$, but it's firmly in there

Finally! ;D ;D

Thanks again for the input

 

[Pa PITT]

twin sticks

My buddy added a set of twin sticks to his Bronco .. He's the only person who I heard of that doesn't like his ..Now his old T shifter worked good ...His problem is that the rear axle shifter works like it should but the Front axle side doesn't shift smooth ..It is very hard to get get into get and harder to every get it out of gear ..You can't turn the front lock out to free wheel .. It may take 4 or 5 drices and stops then all of a sudden you just twist them free.
......And Ideal ..

 

[bax]

T's don't like to be twined sticked unless you remove the pills or grind on the shift rails.

 

[knack]

When you installed the twin stick did you check to make sure the shift rails had full travel in each direction? I had to do some heating and bending on the lower part of the sticks to get full travel without the linkage binding.
I doesn't exactly glide into gear every time now, but its a lot better than the old single shifter.

 

[Bukin 67]

When you installed the twin stick did you check to make sure the shift rails had full travel in each direction? I had to do some heating and bending on the lower part of the sticks to get full travel without the linkage binding.
I doesn't exactly glide into gear every time now, but its a lot better than the old single shifter.

Yes they have FULL travel in each direction. There's absolutely nothing externally to prohibit movement.

What were yours binding on?

 

[Viperwolf1]

If or when you ever remove the t-shift D20 for a rebuild leave both pills out that are between the shift rails. You'll be much happier with the twinsticks.

 

[JB Fab]

My buddy added a set of twin sticks to his Bronco .. He's the only person who I heard of that doesn't like his ..Now his old T shifter worked good ...His problem is that the rear axle shifter works like it should but the Front axle side doesn't shift smooth ..It is very hard to get get into get and harder to every get it out of gear ..You can't turn the front lock out to free wheel .. It may take 4 or 5 drices and stops then all of a sudden you just twist them free.
......And Ideal ..

Unequal gears, unequal tires size/pressure, hard surface, not moving (locker will make it worse)?
If we are going to pop-out the front drive, we will allways do it while moving, I don't ever stop to engage/disengage the front drive, just feather the throttle to take the load of of the drivetrain.

 

[knack]

Yes they have FULL travel in each direction. There's absolutely nothing externally to prohibit movement.

What were yours binding on?

The kit came with little ball joint rod end bearings. No matter how I assembled things, the joints would either not swivel far enough, or they would jam up against the edge of the shifter. I ended up heating and bending the plates at the bottom of the shifter sticks to match the angle of the linkage better, and grinding the plate edges to get clearance for the rod ends to swivel fully.

If I forced it, I could get full travel out of the setup before modifying it, but it seemed like the rod ends were stressed pretty bad.

The only problem I have now is when I get the transmission out of park and the transfer case in neutral. Got to shut the engine off to get the transmission output shaft to stop spinning. Shifting back into park sounds ugly, and so does jamming the transfer case into gear.

 

[Viperwolf1]

The only problem I have now is when I get the transmission out of park and the transfer case in neutral. Got to shut the engine off to get the transmission output shaft to stop spinning. Shifting back into park sounds ugly, and so does jamming the transfer case into gear.

Not really a problem, just the nature of an auto trans. The output shaft always has some torque (tries to spin) due to viscus coupling inside the clutches. There are three ways to prevent ratcheting 1) Leave the trans in PARK to lock the output shaft when shifting the tcase through neutral. 2) Always leave one half of the tcase in gear (not neutral, hubs locked) before putting trans in neutral. 3) Shift the tcase through neutral very quickly before the trans ouput shaft/tcase input gear has time to build up momentum.