Takes forever to fire over

[dblupcobb]

There are no disadvantages to running an electric. I've run two on my last two vehicles, the first an 89 V8 Ranger, I used a Purolator 30 gal/hr electric on it for the ten years it had the V8 (til I sold it) My 77 Comet has a Mr Gasket 35 gal/hr, it's been there for 6 years now. It's more than enough flow to feed 3- 2 bbl carbs at WOT on topend runs, quiet enough so that all you hear of it si when I turn the key "on" to prime the carbs before starting (it sits sometimes for a month between running it) Wiring is simple, one wire from the hot side of the coil to the pump, you can also route it thru an impact switch to kill the power in an accident. No regulator needed.

I contemplated going w/ electric fuel pump also, but wasn't sure about what i would do w/ where the mechanical was? Is there a blank you buy to cover that spot on the block?

 

[broncnaz]

Should be able to get a block off plate from about any speed shop that deals with ford racing parts as they sell one there may be other companies that offer them as well but Im not sure. Or make your own or even just leave the mechanical pump in place. I made my own first out of some sheet metal then later on out of some plate aluminum I found it turned out pretty nice and it shines up nice as well.

I wouldnt really recommend running a electric pump off the hot side of the coil. Most bronco ignition systems have a resistor which reduces the voltage to the coil so you would also be reducing the voltage to the fuel pump plus your pulling more amps thur that ignition wire. You can wire to any switched power source.

 

[baddad457]

Ditto, just buy a fuel pump block off plate. As for the resistor affecting the pump's operation ? I ran the Ranger's pump off the hot side with a resistor and it never affected the operation of the pump. Did that for nine years, it's still runnin around with the same setup too.

 

[broncnaz]

Just saying its not the best place to wire in a pump either way your reducing voltage to the pump and possibly putting a extra strain on the igintion wiring that doesnt need to be there. Plus I'd just want as much power to the ignition as I could get. If the pump is wired in before the resistor then I dont see any issue.

 

[dblupcobb]

Thanks to everyone who chimed in w/ some suggestions. I hope my experience was educational.

I wanted to update everyone on the finality of this issue. Just to re-cap, about 2.5 years ago, I noticed my Bronco was getting harder and harder to start when cold. Below is a re-cap of the attempts to remedy this problem and the eventual solution:

1) I purchased a carburator rebuild kit from Holley and replaced, jets, inspected floats, cleaned up carb, replaced necessary gaskets, and re-installed.

2) Replaced accelerator pump diaphram. Found accelerator pump diaphram to be perforated. Assumed this would fix problem. It did not.

3) Installed new mechanical fuel pump.

4) Added fuel pressure regulator and gauge. Found fuel pressure to be high (9 psi), backed down to 5 psi.

5) Ran all new fuel lines from tank to carb (SS).

6) Installed Carter electric fuel pump.

7) Installed new plugs.

8) New Ignition. MSD 6A w/ Blaster Coil.

9) New Distributor, MSD Billet.

10) New electric choke.

All of this, and the problem persisted. I finally decided to take the carberator off and start from scratch. It should be noted, this is not my everyday driver, and I have kids, which explains the extended duration of this project. The ignition upgrades were more wants than needs also.

To sum up, I fixed the issue. I feel rather dumb revealing the culpret, but like many of you I'm sure could attest to, it was one of the first things I tried that was the cause. After taking the carb back off and starting from scratch I realized that the accelerator pump spring was installed on the wrong side of the diaphram!!!!!!!

I installed correctly and it's back to the way it should be. A couple of stomps on the gas when cold, and almost immediate rumble.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[baddad457]

Just saying its not the best place to wire in a pump either way your reducing voltage to the pump and possibly putting a extra strain on the igintion wiring that doesnt need to be there. Plus I'd just want as much power to the ignition as I could get. If the pump is wired in before the resistor then I dont see any issue.

I wired the pump via a ring terminal at the coil. Apparently the MrGasket/Purolator style pump draws very little amperage. I wired my Comet's pump directly to the fuse box thru a toggle switch, purely so I could cut the power to it if need be.

 

[DirtDonk]

I can't seem to find the 'manage attachments' button but I was going to post a pic of my setup.

Didn't notice your question last time cclay. Hope you figured it out, but just in case, you have to click on the "Go Advanced" button to see all the attachments options.
After you've uploaded images, you can go up to the manage attachments paperclip symbol to insert them in the spots of your choice.
Same Advanced options screen shows up automatically when you are replying with a quote.

Paul

 

[broncnaz]

I wired the pump via a ring terminal at the coil. Apparently the MrGasket/Purolator style pump draws very little amperage. I wired my Comet's pump directly to the fuse box thru a toggle switch, purely so I could cut the power to it if need be.

Not saying it wouldnt work but its just not the best place to pull power from no matter how low of amperage it pulls. Also have to figure that the resistor lowers the voltage as well so you may endup pulling more amps thru the resistor causing more heat and possible early failure. Then again it may live forever. but like I said still not the best place to add accessories to.


CClay glad you got your issue fixed. Sometimes its that little thing that gets you. to bad it took a lot of parts replacing and money to get back to square one.