Tech Info on Cut & Turn Dana 30 Steering Knuckles?

[jonpblewis@yaho]

I've looked but somehow haven't found info that gets me comfortable with starting this adjustment. Could someone help me find or offer details on a Dana 30 or 44 if the same cut & turn to recover caster. Looking for details on the cut to free the knuckles. Location and depth of cut I guess. Then also how to best jig things up to make the turns and keep things strait while setting caster before re welding. Some pictures might help but really any good related info would be awesome. Thanks

 

[bronconut73]

If you can pull up any of the old Xtreme 4x4 shows with Ian, he did this trick a few times.

 

[sykanr0ng]

This is info for the Dana 44:

http://cutandturn.com/tech.html

The king pins will make finding the angle very different from the Dana 44 which has ball joints.

 

[Skiddy]

can you not just cut the wedges off?:?

 

[garberz]

can you not just cut the wedges off?:?

If you move the wedges, then you’re left with pinion angle issues. Same reason they don’t make 10* C bushings.

Mark

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, but it does not accomplish the task. If you re-orient the wedges, you still crank the pinion yoke angle with the tube. Only separating the steering yoke (where the ball joints or king-pin bearings reside) can you fine tune your pinion angle and caster separately.

Breaking the tubes loose from the center section is another method, but like cutting the wedges loose, does not let you adjust the two parts completely separate from one another.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Dang Mark! I had to break away and take a call or I just might have beat you!;D

So there you have it Skiddy. With two classicbronco members in agreement, it must be true. After all, you heard it on the internet...%)

Paul

 

[garberz]

Dang Mark! I had to break away and take a call or I just might have beat you!;D

So there you have it Skiddy. With two classicbronco members in agreement, it must be true. After all, you heard it on the internet...%)

Paul

Paul, your explanations are always filled with such detail. I have to read them to see if I made any mistakes on my comments. I usually pick up some new info along the way.

Mark

 

[migs]

Here's the Link to my post in my build thread when I did mine. I've done a few. I don't remove the knuckles, once I get the crack to show all the way around I know it'll turn with the help of a good hammer. sometimes a little heat is needed to the skinny parts of the knuckle to expand it and allow it to rotate easier.

 

[Skiddy]

If you move the wedges, then you’re left with pinion angle issues. Same reason they don’t make 10* C bushings.

Mark

Yes, but it does not accomplish the task. If you re-orient the wedges, you still crank the pinion yoke angle with the tube. Only separating the steering yoke (where the ball joints or king-pin bearings reside) can you fine tune your pinion angle and caster separately.

Breaking the tubes loose from the center section is another method, but like cutting the wedges loose, does not let you adjust the two parts completely separate from one another.

Paul

Dang Mark! I had to break away and take a call or I just might have beat you!;D

So there you have it Skiddy. With two classicbronco members in agreement, it must be true. After all, you heard it on the internet...%)

Paul

makes sense, thanks guys

 

[jonpblewis@yaho]

Hey guys thanks for getting back to me on this. I think I still have a question about doing this on a Dana 30. Is the D-30's Knuckle have a male end on it? Meaning is the axle tube sleeved onto the outside of the knuckle? It seems like the welds are below the surface of the axle tube unlike the pictures I was directed to in the link above.

 

[rjlougee]

Not to be the party pooper, but WHY? Why would you put that effort into a D30 in the first place, vs. installing a D44?
Joe

 

[sykanr0ng]

Not to be the party pooper, but WHY? Why would you put that effort into a D30 in the first place, vs. installing a D44?
Joe

I was wondering about that too.

Maybe on a LUBr where you run a lot of lift with what are really small tires that won't break a D30?

 

[Casey835]

I did this to my 44. Just simply grind where the “C” connects to the tube carefully till the the crack is visible. Your not trying to separate anything so don’t. Use an angle finder to find a base angle before starting. You aren’t going to move it much, you don’t need to. It will literally be like an 1/8” to a .25” that’s needed to correct it. Once that crack is visible, use a baby sledge to wack it gently till you get what you want. I can try to find pics and post later. Wish I could remember more but I don’t at the moment other that my bronco now holds the road just as good as my 350.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[surfer-b]

these are the steps I take when I turn the knuckles
1: get the pinion angle I want while axle is installed on Bronco and setting on level ground, I usually run 2* C-Bushings with a 2.5" lift to get the pinion angle pointing at the t-case

2: get the castor angle readings, its usually about 0* or even neg, this will let me know how much I need to rotate the yokes

3: remove the axle, set it up and take an angle reading on a given point on the yoke and always use this point from here on out, I always set the pinion yoke at 90* so if the axle moves I can go back to that starting point. I always mark the axle and yoke for a starting reference point. see 1st pic

4: start grinding until you see the crack, 2nd pic

5: in the 3rd pic I removed the yoke from the axle, you don't have to completely remove it

there isn't a lot of weld penetration into the axle tube itself, its mostly on the yoke so don't grind alot of the axle. Just do a little at a time an check often

 

[jonpblewis@yaho]

Hey I get what your saying about upgrading to a 44 and I will. Just trying to get back on the road and already way over budget. Still you may be right and I should just deal with it the way it is and build a 44 later. Thanks for the advise

 

[DirtDonk]

Great writeup and pics surfer-b. Thanks
Ya' know too, while you're making those first tick marks in the end for reference, you could also figure out where the new marks should be and just put them there at the same time.
This way you don't have to measure your twist. You just go to the new mark and lock it down.

Maybe there's a reason you don't do that, but it seems like it would work.

Paul

 

[surfer-b]

Great writeup and pics surfer-b. Thanks
Ya' know too, while you're making those first tick marks in the end for reference, you could also figure out where the new marks should be and just put them there at the same time.
This way you don't have to measure your twist. You just go to the new mark and lock it down.

Maybe there's a reason you don't do that, but it seems like it would work.

Paul

I could, and it would prob be less hassle the way you described, I just always use the angle finder