Throttle cable routing

[hunter1]

351 Windsor. What is the way you are routing your throttle cable? I can loop it but looks kinda crappy. To run it direct to the original linkage hole puts the cable in a pretty sharp bind and shortens it up tremendously. Please share some pics of what you have done.

 

[joshua]

I have no input. But does the stock linkage not work with the 351?

 

[Oldtimer]

As I recall, stock linkage and 351W valve covers did not play nice with each other.
I used a Bronco I6 throttle cable and fabbed a bracket for intake manifold.

I will post a picture of cable routing . . .when the sun comes up.

 

[BOBS 2 68S]

I used this cable https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/stainless-steel-4-barrel-throttle-cable
Mine is 302 but what I did was,
Attached one end to the gas peddle then made a soft "s" to the carb. I had to cut the cable and housing shorter to get the fit and smoothness I wanted. It wasn't all that hard it just took time.

 

[Oldtimer]

 

[Speedrdr]

@Oldtimer , must be some bad juju on my end. Won’t let me open the links.
Edit:: I was too slow! Lol
R

 

[Hopstr]

351 Windsor. What is the way you are routing your throttle cable? I can loop it but looks kinda crappy. To run it direct to the original linkage hole puts the cable in a pretty sharp bind and shortens it up tremendously. Please share some pics of what you have done. View attachment 935090

I'm in the same boat as you. Mine is ford EFI also. I'm planning on going with the cable ( seems to be the only option). I might modify or lengthen the rod for the pedal and drill a hole in the firewall higher up to clear the valve cover.

 

[hunter1]

I'm in the same boat as you. Mine is ford EFI also. I'm planning on going with the cable ( seems to be the only option). I might modify or lengthen the rod for the pedal and drill a hole in the firewall higher up to clear the valve cover.

I think I'm going to do the same as far as lengthening the pedal but going through the hole for the original rod and just looping the cable down behind the head a little. May try that for a while or until I realize I really don't like it.

 

[nvrstuk]

Cable needs to have a big gentle radius or a loop to prevent a sticky throttle which will need a BIG return spring to help return to idle.

If you change the geometry on the pedal for the cable mounting point take into account the difference in actual cable movement that will now occur to make sure you can still acheive full throttle.

I had to put a small 360 deg loop in my cable (I've run many w/o but a larger radius) and it's flawless again.

 

[hunter1]

Sounds like the right thing to do then. Thanks for the input!

 

[Torkman66]

I have same setup. Just went back and looked at your pic again. Your cable bracket is way farther back than mine. There is a bracket just for this application that mounts up closer to carb. If you shorten the cable the bend is minimal.

 

[nvrstuk]

Also, the sharper the bend (especially at the ends) the quicker the cable will cut a groove into the liner in the housing itself. This happened to me on 2 different cables & housings even with a large enough radius that the lightest spring returned the throttle to idle position. I probably drive my Bronco more than most other applications. I then went with a Lokar cable and it lasted longer on the same brackets/radius.

Lokar cable has more than doubled in price since Covid (inflation bs), they just doubled their price cause they could so with a different SEFI setup now (different length needed) I went with a cheaper cable setup but that Blk Friday deal WH has is a good price. Jegs wants $72 for the cable and over $105 for the simple little bracket. Guess they figure nobody welds or can bend a pc of metal in a vise. Guess it's my rant on exorbitant prices for our hobby day.

Have a good one!

 

[ntsqd]

Throttle return springs that pull on the opposite side of the throttle shaft from the linkage or cable will wear out the throttle shaft bore in the carb much faster. It is better to have them pull inline with the linkage or cable, or to use a compression spring to push the throttle closed.

On the Valiant I used some motorcycle clutch cable housing for the sheath/housing and some 1/16" SS cable from West Marine. No idea where I got the housing from, but I've since found that it can be bought from Wicks Aircraft Supply. All of the rest of the bits came from McMaster. Keeping the curves as large as I could meant that the housing had to lay on the rocker cover, and the curve off the firewall was still tighter than I liked.
Can barely see it in the pic below:

Better detail pics:

 

[hunter1]

I have same setup. Just went back and looked at your pic again. Your cable bracket is way farther back than mine. There is a bracket just for this application that mounts up closer to carb. If you shorten the cable the bend is minimal. View attachment 935471 View attachment 935472 View attachment 935473 View attachment 935474

I actually bought one of the brackets that bolts to the carb flange bolts. It doesn't fit the Edelbrock but does fit the Fi-tech i have. Just wanted to get it running on the carb and install the Fi-tech later after getting it on the road. Will probably have to buy a new cable for that application after I make this one work.

 

[bronkenn]