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Throttle Down Kustoms

addicted

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I was just looking through a JBG catalog and noticed the TDK frame they advertise. Its looks really nice (although spendy) and I was curious if any of you guys have one or have heard anything good or bad about them. I did a search but came up with squat. Thanks
 

trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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Awesome looking frame. A bit expensive, but 3/16" thick wall tube...should be very beefy. Kudos to JBG for finding someone to build-up new frames...ever since Matkin's tanked I figured that was it. All that frame needs is a hot-dip in some zinc and some sweet powder-coating and it will outlive us all.
 
OP
OP
addicted

addicted

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Thats what I was thinking. Beefy. And has options for primed, galvanized, or powdercoated. As well as custom options like welded in hitch recievers and tire carriers. Kind of cool I think
 

Stutsmo

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They are nice frames they had one at broncorama 2 years ago. I would buy one if the need ever arises.
 

HoosierDaddy

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Awesome looking frame. A bit expensive, but 3/16" thick wall tube...should be very beefy. Kudos to JBG for finding someone to build-up new frames...ever since Matkin's tanked I figured that was it. All that frame needs is a hot-dip in some zinc and some sweet powder-coating and it will outlive us all.

Read the print in the JBG (catalog) ad .... they come either primed , galvanized or powder coated. apparently your choice.;D

Yep , added that to the build list for the pipe dream , rust proof , glass bodied , year 'round Indiana salty road daily driver.

Trailpsycho , your frame is dipped right ? How much was that ?
 
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addicted

addicted

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Thats what Im thinking to. How much it would cost to strip down a frame, fix the little odds and ends or damage that has has been done by mother nature and POs, and then dip and paint it. Maybe the 2K+ price wont seem so bad?
 

needabronco

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Jul 2, 2004
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Prescott/Farmington
Thats what Im thinking to. How much it would cost to strip down a frame, fix the little odds and ends or damage that has has been done by mother nature and POs, and then dip and paint it. Maybe the 2K+ price wont seem so bad?


I added F250 mounts to mine, fabbed custom rear mounts and did the steering box brace, blasted and POR'd I'm maybe in $450-500 and that's on the rather high side.

If I needed a new frame though I'd consider that one. If it was just a driver though I think I'd part out a bronco and nab that frame. The stock frame is pretty beefy compared to most other 1/2 ton rigs out there...
 

trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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When I did my build, I installed all my new suspension parts just prior to removing the tub...to make sure that with the (planned) 1" BL that the Cage mounts would fit, etc.

Then I pulled the tub, see photo1. Then I stripped it all down and took it to a local place to have it blasted. It was March, I believe, so there were still intermittent snow issues/salting, so we wrapped the frame and loaded it to take to Nashville, TN. I have a buddy from HS who now runs the plant, but at the time was their sales guy...they dipped it and then we hauled it south to their "paint shop" about 45 miles south-west and they sweep-blasted it. Another guy, not on staff, but at an adjacent building shot it with some Sherman Williams "Industrial" primer and two-part urethane. I paid $125 for the hot-dip and the sweep blasting...friend pricing.

The charge to galvanize for a bronco frame should/would be basically a "minimum" similar to a setup fee at a powder-coater. Its at the minimum size kind of thing, so its pretty cheap...should be in the $250-300 range, depending on what the price of zinc is at the time.

For best results, the frame should be pre-blasted. The process includes a dip in a hydraulic acid bath (pickling), this is a cleaning step to get to bright steel. Each plant differs a little in the steps, but there is usually 3 dips with a rinse, then the work goes into the kettle, which is liquid zinc at about 800-900 degrees. The zinc chemically bonds and fills on the steel depending on how long its left in the bath. They then hoist it out and its allowed to slowly cool.

A couple of very important things. At the temp of the kettle, any enclosed air pockets will explode. All the tube that you may add to your frame needs to be vented. The vent holes should be in a certain proportion to the diameter of the tube. So, all the cage mounts and my frame tie-ins were all drilled (, started with a 1/4 then opened up to 3/8"). We did this in the yard, ran out of battery on the last hole... The holes need to be done at "top" and "bottom" of the work, so that any super-heated air can escape as the work goes into the kettle...otherwise, the piece can/will explode. My buddy said he has seen it happen...not good and dangerous too.

I definitely think if you are taking the frame down all the way, its a great way to preserve the frame. It also coats inside, which is good. The caveat is you really need to make sure you do all your welding ahead of time. Welding on galvanized steel is not healthy. I added my bumper reinforcements after the fact...I dindt originally think I was going to (be able to approval from the boss-lady to) get the Protofab bumpers--which pretty much require some frame reinforcement on the horns). The body-already in Line-X was already mounted too...so I warpped all the adjacent areas with thick HD aluminum foil, ground down the zinc as best as I could, turned up the heat and used flex-core. It turned out OK...but the gases produced are toxic and you really need good ventilation.

Anyway, here are a couple more pics of the process. If you are considering hot-dip galvanizing, look in your local phone book and a google search can turn up a galvanizer near you. If you dip, you really need to 'sweep blast' (a quick sand blasting process using larger grain and high volume to etch a clean 'bright' tooth for optimal adhesion) prior to painting, powder coating or whatever. And the painting/coating needs to be done very quickly after the sweep-blast. Even though mine was "technically" done correctly, the Sherman Williams product still lifts and cracks every once in a while. I hit the bare spots with rattle can...just to keep it black, cause thats what I was going for. If I had it to do again, I would have contacted a powder-coater in Nashville and had an appointment to take it in the same day. Powder-coating, while more expensive would bond better and look better. At the time, my PC-shop in Indy was not doing their own in house blasting on items of that size, so it would have been difficult to organize...additional transport, etc...logistics were already a pain.


Sorry to be long-winded...figure its better to get the whole story/process out there and answer as many Qs as possible.
 

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trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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4,856
A few more pics... including some shameless "after pics". A few in between of the frame horns again when a few weeks before I realized my rad was destroyed early this summer...finally sank in about 4 days before a scheduled 2 wk raod trip to CO...stressful. The brown on the frame is rust from the engine/rad where the rad had ruptured--still cooled awesome, but the top section was compromised and the coolant was about 50% of "capacity". The engine was a 11/95 "1996 production" engine that sat in a warehouse for the ensuing years (until 2007)...we replaced the cam and did a thorough check...other than the cooling system. Since they are all run at the factory, the water and coolant that had sat in the block for all those years finally came loose after a year of driving...thank God it was a Jegs universal ($170) rad instead of a $450 Ron Davis one. A few professional power flushes later, a fresh Jegs unit and the bowells are clean. Just wanted to make sure you guys knew that the brown on the frame was not frame rust, a 'dirty sanchez' or any thing else funny... never had a cooling problem, even at ~50% coolant capacity. Made the trip to CO and had no problems...with the radiator.

Anyway, let me know if I missed anything relevant to the galvanizing post... Again sorry for the long post.
 

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trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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Long story short: Costs...
Initial blasting: (lots of stuff done on that run), dont remember exactly what I paid but figure $125 for the frame...might be able to get it done cheaper.
Trailer rental...~$75 for a long weekend.
Gas: ~300 miles/way in an S-10 with a trailer with a vertical rear ramp...not good...$200 for weekend expenses, good times--priceless.
Hot-dip: $125--this was a friend price, figure ~$250-300 as a "setup fee"...two or 3 frames would make it cheaper and worth the trip.
Sherman Williams: ~$80-90, dont recall exactly, I just didnt want the enamel that they used on their industrial products and the other industrial coating that we planned on using was in low supply wiht a big job in cue, so they couldnt spare it...hence the run to Columbia to hit the Sherman Williams store.
Painter: $100 cash, he didnt work for my buddy's company...just a cool fabricator who worked at the same location, had all the equipment and was willing to take the time to help get it done since the other industrial coating was suddenly "unavailable"....and ugh, can you imagine brown enamel on a frame...a billboard maybe, but not my ride.

Like all these Bronco projects, its never just the cost of the part or the "service" (painting, Line-X, powder coating)...its the running around, renting of a trailer or a work truck, Hardware ($$), food, beers, or other materials needed to get the project from one place to another that add up. I had alot of help from friends and loaner vehicles that helped along the way as well...no substitute for good friends.
 

7bronco6

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Jun 4, 2008
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Loc.
PA
Thanks for taking the time to explain everything Trailpsycho, looks awesome.
 
Last edited:

HoosierDaddy

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I know you have been wheelin' this year ..... is it still that clean? :)

Thanks for the write up , tech write up material there. Very good ...

It's amazing how much drag those ramps make , ain't it ? Hell , I can feel it with my diesel f250 , let alone a S-10.
 

HoosierDaddy

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OK , I think I got it now.
The sweep blast is for the "finish" coat adhesion , correct ?
from what I have seen on dipped steel I have worked with , the sweep blasting sounds like a great idea , as the zinc coating usually has runs or other stuff in it.

other stuff I have read :
prior to acid bath , all the mud , muck and grime needs to be gone , including the inside if you want it protected also , as the acid doesn't work on stuff that may be non-reactive.

So frame must be cleaned inside and out .
preferably all welding done ....
vents drilled to release trapped air where necessary
? pre-blasted before acid bath ?
take to galvenizer who :
acid bathes
rinses and neutralizes
dip and cools
then
do a sweep blast for finish coat adhesion
apply finish coat asap after sweep blasting.
 

trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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You got it man. The pre-blasting is a really good idea, IMO, and the blaster should be able to run the nozzle up in there enough to clean out the inside pretty good.

The zinc oxidizes sacrificially and developes a durable (relatively), (generally/relatively) impervious zinc oxide coating that is resistant to further oxidation and weathering (but is subject to 'mechanical removal' fairly easily). Think about fencing and such, the only time you really see them "rusting" is either after they are very, very old (zinc is been totally consumed as a result of time and wear from handling, abraisions, etc) or they have been deeply scratched, which penetrates the outer oxide layer down beneath the primary zinc-steel layer. And those fences have a relatively thin coating (mil thickness). So, yes, your assessment above is mostly correct, the "sweep blast" serves two purposes: 1) it removes the outer zinc oxide layer that forms very quickly after dipping that is smoothe but not durable enough to be a good base substrate and 2) it provides increased surface area or tooth for better product adhesion.

A topcoat isnt necessary at all really, its more cosmetic but it will extend the life of the galvanization. In my research, I found that different coatings had different "success rates". Most extended the life of the zinc significantly. Some offered better adhesion. In general, HDG steel has a service life of about 20-30 yrs for the zinc depending on the mil thickness of the dip. Topcoats could extend the life by 1.4-3X that. I may have some links that are still live at work, I can try to add them to this thread tomorrow, perhaps. HTH

Clear as mud?
 

HoosierDaddy

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Got it ....
From my earlier post you may see where I'm heading.
I want a year 'round daily driver that won't rust away on me due to the road salt. I don't have the guts to do that to an original body , BUT , with a 'glass body and a galvanized frame ..... I'm in bidness.
Thanks for all the info.
 

trailpsycho

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Dec 11, 2003
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Yeah, thats why I went crazy on the Line-X, but now that its done...it wont happen. It will get the rare run in the winter when its nice after its rained a good bit or on a 10+" day of snow--got to play, but day to day, no way.
 
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