Toms Install: Interior Bar Cage - Family 4 Point, 66-77 Early Ford Bronco, New

[67RT]

So I bought the rear 4 point family cage from Toms and will be installing shortly. I have a friend who is a professional welder who will assist. If anyone has experience with this cage and installing the Toms 3 pt front and rear belts, I would appreciate any tips.
I was hoping to be able to bring it to his house without the truck (it isn't running) and have him put it together. Is it necessary to mock up in the truck? I posed the question to Toms about necessary trimming to fit under hardtop, but looking for users feedback as well. Thanks, Pete

 

[Glass Pony]

A couple things on the seat belts.
I would use a 1/2" bung for the attachment to the roll bar instead of using the bolt they supply. IMO it makes a cleaner look and it won't crush the tube.
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/1316/BTF-Seatbelt-Bung.aspx
Also their instructions say to drill the upper mount approximately 36" above the floor board.
I thought that was a bit high so I went 35". I am 6'-1" and I think I could of went even lower.
I would mock it up in the truck just to be sure I had all my bases covered.

 

[Toddpole]

Ditto on Glass Pony's comments. Especially regarding the weld in bungs. We just built a simple 6 pt family cage for my daily driver. I would strongly recommend fabbing up inside the vehicle. Then you can be sure it fits properly.
Just my .02 worth.

 

[67RT]

Thanks for the insight. So you think drilling the tube would put the bar at risk? Is the welded bung strong enough?

Toms tech got right back to me and said that it theoretically should fit fine but is best to have truck present during fab. I think I will just take measurements of inside and make sure we stay within those.
I also have to install a Rampage soft top. Everything I have read states that if the bar fits under the hard top, it will fit under the soft top. Are there any issues folding this top down with the cage I have, and is there a certain part of the floor I need to bolt it to so there is clearance in back for the top? I will eventually tie to frame underneath, so maybe there is a best part of the floor for this as well. Any references in our tech threads for this, as I looked and couldn't find one..

 

[Glass Pony]

Thanks for the insight. So you think drilling the tube would put the bar at risk? Is the welded bung strong enough?

You have to drill the roll bar in either case.
After you drill the hole and install the bung you seal weld both ends of the bung to the roll bar. In my opinion the welded bung would have a lot more structural integrity than a "through bolt" going through the tube.
The shoulder belt will still bolt up with a 1/2" bolt. Just make sure you use a grade 8 like the one they gave you only shorter with a fine thread.

 

[67RT]

You have to drill the roll bar in either case.
After you drill the hole and install the bung you seal weld both ends of the bung to the roll bar. In my opinion the welded bung would have a lot more structural integrity than a "through bolt" going through the tube.
The shoulder belt will still bolt up with a 1/2" bolt. Just make sure you use a grade 8 like the one they gave you only shorter with a fine thread.

Great, So the hole gets drilled from the front of the truck towards the back, for both front and rear belts?

Also, I am looking at bungs. Does it get drilled all the way thru and welded on both sides of the 2" bar" and is there a kit that comes with correct bolts.? I don't know why I can't find it..

 

[Glass Pony]

Great, So the hole gets drilled from the front of the truck towards the back, for both front and rear belts?

Yes, the bung I believe was 3/4" O.D.

Does it get drilled all the way thru and welded on both sides of the 2" bar

Yes.

is there a kit that comes with correct bolts.?

I don't know of any kits. I got the bungs with the 1/2" National Fine threads from BTF and I just got the bolts from my local True Value Hardware store for a couple bucks a piece.

 

[welndmn]

You will want to weld it with the truck.
If you not when you do get it going you will way have that though of how much nicer it would be if something was an inch over to the left.

 

[67RT]

You will want to weld it with the truck.
If you not when you do get it going you will way have that though of how much nicer it would be if something was an inch over to the left.

Ok, I will wait till I get it running to make sure it is set up right. Probably makes sense as I will want to make sure the bungs are in the right position in relation to the seat as well.

 

[dougsride]

summit racing also has the weld in bungs. does make a cleaner set up . I put the toms family cage in mine and used ratchet straps to help mock it up. especially the spreader bars above seats.

 

[TN1776]

Another option for seat belt mounts is to weld tabs onto the cage to mount the seat belts to. It is done all the time and if you are against drilling and welding in bungs, it can be done nicely.
I'd definitely at least assemble the cage inside the vehicle and tack it together, pull it out for finish welding, paint or powdercoat it and then do the final install. My family cage shipped fully welded on a crate - I had that cage in and out of the vehicle way too many times and its a pain in the arse. Test fitting and drilling the floor before paint and liner. Removed and reinstalled a few more times for various reasons, then finally fully installed after paint.

 

[Teal68]

A couple things on the seat belts.
I would use a 1/2" bung for the attachment to the roll bar instead of using the bolt they supply. IMO it makes a cleaner look and it won't crush the tube.
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/1316/BTF-Seatbelt-Bung.aspx
Also their instructions say to drill the upper mount approximately 36" above the floor board.
I thought that was a bit high so I went 35". I am 6'-1" and I think I could of went even lower.
I would mock it up in the truck just to be sure I had all my bases covered.

I have used Blue Torch bungs in the past, but it appears they no longer make them. I have been checking for a while now, and they don't answer their phone! Anybody got a good source for another bung that welds both sides like theirs?

 

[tinytim02]

I just got 4 of the 1/2-20 for 2" tube last week from BTF. I ordered online and had them pretty quick.

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/btf-seatbelt-bung

 

[Teal68]

I just got 4 of the 1/2-20 for 2" tube last week from BTF. I ordered online and had them pretty quick.

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/products/btf-seatbelt-bung

Link says it's sold out, and no way to add them to the cart.

 

[duffymahoney]

I used these, they worked awesome. They are meant for handle bars on a bike.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG2T7YS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

I went with the tabs, wasn't comfortable drilling holes in the cage

Got them from extreme custom fab, super heavy duty, I like how it turned out

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-362...ab-light-tab-high-lift-jack-mounting-tab.html

Another option for seat belt mounts is to weld tabs onto the cage to mount the seat belts to. It is done all the time and if you are against drilling and welding in bungs, it can be done nicely.
I'd definitely at least assemble the cage inside the vehicle and tack it together, pull it out for finish welding, paint or powdercoat it and then do the final install. My family cage shipped fully welded on a crate - I had that cage in and out of the vehicle way too many times and its a pain in the arse. Test fitting and drilling the floor before paint and liner. Removed and reinstalled a few more times for various reasons, then finally fully installed after paint.

 

[Teal68]

I used these, they worked awesome. They are meant for handle bars on a bike.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG2T7YS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Were those long enough to go all the way thru 2" diameter tube so it can be welded both ends?