Trick Flow 302 rebuild kit... any opinions?

[hollowch]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-360350B/

Possibly looking to upgrade and completely rebuild my 302 pretty soon and am looking into some options. I'm currently stock and carbureted, so I know even if I ended up going with a kit like this, I would still need the EFI wiring harness... the kit also still needs the throttle body and intake...

What else would I be looking at purchasing if I went this route?

 

[firehawk]

Go with a 351.

 

[KyleQ]

360HP? Yeah - you can get that out of a 351W much easier, and much cheaper. You could rebuild a 351W for less than that- food for thought.

 

[barronj]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-360350B/

Possibly looking to upgrade and completely rebuild my 302 pretty soon and am looking into some options. I'm currently stock and carbureted, so I know even if I ended up going with a kit like this, I would still need the EFI wiring harness... the kit also still needs the throttle body and intake...

What else would I be looking at purchasing if I went this route?

You would need: Injectors, sensors, o2 sensors, o2 bungs welded in to exhaust, fuel pump, plumbing for return, fuel lines, mass air sensor, new distributor, possibly a new coil, who knows what year block you're running, but that cam only works on roller motors, ECU & harness... etc

If that's $2650, you're looking at another $1350 to make it run, not including any work you want to do to the bottom end. Spend $500 freshening up the short block, and you're at $4500.

That's a slippery slope. You'll make power, without a doubt, but I would freshen the shortblock, top it off w/ comparable heads to what's shown, maybe ugrade your intake & carb, even your cam, and save a large chunk of change in the process.

 

[broncnaz]

To much cam for a bronco in my opinion. next do you have a 302 or a 5.0 that kit is for a 5.0 hence the roller cam you'd have to convert your 302 so theres more money. the heads are good the rest well not needed just rebuild your 302 with good heads and a decent cam that matches your needs.

 

[Gregg@TFS]

To put this kit into an early Bronco the easiest thing to do would be to rob an 89-93' Mustang for all the wiring harness, computer and o2 sensors. At that point you will need to upgrade the injectors to a 24 lb injector; 75mm throttle body, 75-80mm mass air meter and at least a 190 LPH fuel pump.

If you are starting out with a non hydraulic roller short block you will need to use the retro fit style link bar lifters.

The cam in the kit will actually work out quite well in the Bronco as it still maintains very good low end torque qualities but still allows you to pull good RPM up top. Using the Street intake will also allow the engine to build good low to mid range power. As you can see in the information on the kit on Summits web site the kits make anywhere from 350-360hp and 350-370 ft lbs of torque. For use in the Bronco I would suggest the TFS-K514-350-370 kit. This kit will allow you to make the better lower end torque which is very much needed in a 4 wheel drive application.

 

[barronj]

Retrostyle link bar lifters: $329
Gregg, would TFS let you trade out the pushrods that are included for a set that would work with the retrofit lifters? I imagine you would need shorter pushrods.
Pushrods aren't terribly expensive, but you'll probably need to buy a measuring tool, if your machinist won't loan you one.

Finding 87-93 mustangs to rob is getting harder & harder.

Here's the parts list (used costs)
throttle body- $75
mass air- $75
injectors- $75
distributor- $25
ecu & harness- $200
sensors- $50
o2's- $180 (new)
coil-$25
o2 bungs welded-$100
air filter- $50 (new)
elbo or CAI- $50
fuel pump-$100 (new)

With the lifters, and these parts used, and the base package, you're looking at $4000, and I would budget another $200 in odds & ends, minimum.

You can easily buy new MAM, new TB, new injectors (probably recommended), reman distributor, new coil, new CAI, and more than double those numbers.

If you have the budget, I say do it.

If you don't, then buy a set of heads/intake/carb & go EFI later on. You can still use the heads, you can sell the intake & carb & almost pay for a new EFI intake.

 

[KyleQ]

Your parts list is much more expensive than what I can find stuff up in MN, the TB & MAf should cost half that for used stock crap, I wouldn't pay more than 125 for a A9P and harness, you are nearly double the cost on O2's, welding in bungs shouldn't cost more than an hour's worth of labor , nearly double on an air filter, intake elbow and fuel pump. Where did you get those numbers?

In all seriousness if you are looking to drop that kind of power you should look at an entire engine. I see stuff for sale for that kind of money making that target power range all the time in my area - it could just be the MN drag scene, but it makes you sick when you drop 3K building a motor to find something making similar power for sale for 2/3's of what you just spent.

Get on Corral and start looking-

 

[Gregg@TFS]

Retrostyle link bar lifters: $329
Gregg, would TFS let you trade out the pushrods that are included for a set that would work with the retrofit lifters? I imagine you would need shorter pushrods.
Pushrods aren't terribly expensive, but you'll probably need to buy a measuring tool, if your machinist won't loan you one.

Finding 87-93 mustangs to rob is getting harder & harder.

Here's the parts list (used costs)
throttle body- $75
mass air- $75
injectors- $75
distributor- $25
ecu & harness- $200
sensors- $50
o2's- $180 (new)
coil-$25
o2 bungs welded-$100
air filter- $50 (new)
elbo or CAI- $50
fuel pump-$100 (new)

With the lifters, and these parts used, and the base package, you're looking at $4000, and I would budget another $200 in odds & ends, minimum.

You can easily buy new MAM, new TB, new injectors (probably recommended), reman distributor, new coil, new CAI, and more than double those numbers.

If you have the budget, I say do it.

If you don't, then buy a set of heads/intake/carb & go EFI later on. You can still use the heads, you can sell the intake & carb & almost pay for a new EFI intake.

Yes if this is the route someone would go TFS would have no issue swapping out the pushrods for the correct length needed for the retro fit lifters.

There are many different ways he can go with his combination to make awesome power and low end torque. I am just providing him with the information he asked for.

Sure he could stay with the carb for a lot les money out of pocket. If that is the route he wants to go, I will be more than happy to lend a hand getting him where he wants to be with that given combination.

 

[barronj]

Your parts list is much more expensive than what I can find stuff up in MN, the TB & MAf should cost half that for used stock crap, I wouldn't pay more than 125 for a A9P and harness, you are nearly double the cost on O2's, welding in bungs shouldn't cost more than an hour's worth of labor , nearly double on an air filter, intake elbow and fuel pump. Where did you get those numbers?
-

I guessed on the O2's, I thought when I priced them they were $90, but a quick check on Autozone says they're only $40/ea.

As for $125 for an A9P & harness, you should resell those all day long. I can't find an A9L or A9P for less than $125 in Austin, same for the harness.

For the fuel pump, take your pick. They start at $82.

Why would you put a stock MAF & a stock throttle body on a $2700 intake & head combo? My $75 #'s are for used 65/70mm throttle bodies, used 75mm mass air, and probably conservative numbers.

I didn't think welding shops lifted a finger for less than $100...

You can get all stock junk for 1/2 of what I posted. If you want used race parts, like I would pair with that head/intake combo, those #'s are a reference point.

 

[broncnaz]

bottom line is that kit is not for a 302. and really its much to big for a bronco that is not going to see 6000 RPM.
the heads will work a little big but will work but you can go smaller and get the same or even better power. The cam is all wrong. If your looking to go EFI well just get a late model engine with all the parts thats really all you need. if you were racing then yes bigger stuff will be needed but for most bronco engines the stock stuff works just fine.