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tub removal with overhead hoist, where to fasten the cables

reamer

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
1,249
After bracing the door openings, where are "safe points" to attach cables for a four-point attach?
Where is NOT a safe place?
Nose is off, tailgate and roof too.
Reamer
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,241
I need to ask if there is any rust or other damage to consider?
What will you do with the body after it comes off the frame? That can affect the choice location of the picking points as well.
 

RV77

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2007
Messages
537
Loc.
Springfield,IL
After I braced my tub I used the seat bolt holes ( the ones that are in the supports ) and w/ a engine hoist and one of those engine leveling contraptions.I have moved it around a few times w/o incident.
 

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,264
My tub was pretty solid. I welded door braces at the tops of the door posts on the seams. I welded a cross member across the tub from the door post braces 6 inches ahead of the rear posts. I lifted it from a single point in the center of that cross member. It was very close ot the ballance point. The front tub was still attached.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,792
I know the one attachment to the loop for the passenger side seat (the loop that is mounted to the floor for the hook on the passenger seat) will work, you will just need a few tag lines to balance it while most of the weight is on that point.

I hooked chains to 4 points on the base of the roll cage in an X, 2 up front and 2 at the rear.

I've done it a few different methods...
 

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1975stroppebaja

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 18, 2003
Messages
1,405
I used the six body mount holes in the tub. I had cables with turnbuckles to try to get it balanced. I also hooked something to the core support on the front. No real weight on that part, just to help keep it all balanced. Ended up working good enough to do the job. Next time I'll rig it all a little farther forward.

Bronco%20-%20Tub%20Removal-019.jpg


Bronco%20-%20Tub%20Removal-038.jpg
 

Phoenix0783

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
143
I used the holes below the cowl and two bolts where the rear seat bolts in. The bar has a collar you can slide back and forth to get the weight even.

2556851007_c390bd1992_o.jpg
 

79driver

Full Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Messages
262
I used the rear stake pockets and the holes for the windshield frame bolts for my straps for balanceing, but the chain that did all the lifting was attached to the main hoop on the roll bar.
 

brncofinatic

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2004
Messages
90
I am also just about ready to take my tube off. Had a question for you all. Are the welded door supports in the above picture neccessary to keep the tube from folding in on itself? Also is it easier to remove the gas tanks before you lift the tube, or take the tanks with the tube.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,792
I am also just about ready to take my tube off. Had a question for you all. Are the welded door supports in the above picture neccessary to keep the tube from folding in on itself? Also is it easier to remove the gas tanks before you lift the tube, or take the tanks with the tube.
Aux tanks are strapped to the tub, remaove it. The stock rear tank is straddled inbetween the frame so it can stay in there when lifting the tub.
 

Phoenix0783

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
143
I am also just about ready to take my tube off. Had a question for you all. Are the welded door supports in the above picture neccessary to keep the tube from folding in on itself? Also is it easier to remove the gas tanks before you lift the tube, or take the tanks with the tube.
Definitely.
 
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