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Tying the roll bar to the frame

rydog1130

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Jun 19, 2014
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4,053
Does anyone know if any one makes a bracket that will tie the roll bar into the frame? Preferably where the roll bar mounts behind the seat/front of the rear wheel well?
 

71Broncitis

Full Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
152
I've seen a couple generic kits over the years. They are mainly several J bends and some plates. All need custom fit to your Bronco due to body lift, specific cage foot size and location, etc.

Just as easy to make your own if you know anyone with a bender.

Typically I use the J bend style up front below the dash and usually behind the front seats.

At the rear by the tailgate I usually modify the rear channel a bit at the body mounts since it accepts a piece of 2" square nicely. I use 3/16, sometimes 1/4" square up in the rear channel. This allows me to bolt through the body, square tube and body mounts into the frame. I then have a strong, frame mounted structure to attach my rear cage plates to our near the tail light housings.

You can also add cross bars along the floor between the legs near the B pillar and tailgate (not needed if you is the tube underneath as described above). These prevent the cage from punching through the floor like happens with body mount only.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Dlish

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
552
My A and B pillar tie into the frame via horizantal supports that also attach my rock sliders. Have a poly bushing so can give a little movement and hopefully not squeak.
 

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71Broncitis

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Dec 1, 2014
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152
Tie ins with the end of the tube butt welded to the frame should always have a 3/16"+ plate welded between them to spread the load and prevent the tube from punching through or tearing out a piece of the 40-50 year old frame which is often no longer even it's original 1/8" thickness due to rust.

That is a good practice anyway when welding tube I to even new stock it fabricated box or C channel frames.

I see the busings used often and have used them myself because they seem to be a good idea and can possibly aid in some misalignment issues if you have to remove and replace it. However, I kind of doubt they really do much for isolating vibration or allowing any flex when they are all installed and tightened down.

However, know that this adds a pivot point and depending on the way the axis of the bushing is placed, it can greatly reduce the resistive strength to having the cage push down. This makes having the spreader bars along the floor that I mentioned previously all the more useful.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Dlish

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
552
Agree with spreader bars, i have a bar between the B pillars and C pillars that runs along the floor. Also my seats are mounted to the cage so there is basically another bar that goes across the floor at the front of the seats too.

I can take some pictures if you would like
 

pbwcr

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
626
Cage 2 Frame. Part of the cage kit for my Jeep. Completely adaptable to any cage. Made by Synergy (Poly Performance). Easy for a DIY. It uses a poly bushing and came with a link that is cut to fit. I was afraid of increased noise/vibration but the bushing damps out any such things.
Even easier - just use a link floor to frame. My 72 Bronco cage was custom made by a fab guy in CA and he used a 2x2 steel link from the floor to the frame. Similar to the pic below, but with no poly bushing.
 

Bukin 67

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
2,262
I ran the cage tubing through the body and tied into triangulated supports welded to the frame that double as side impact protection. If you want the frame to be removable, just incorporate Camburg clamps.
 

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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Agree with spreader bars, i have a bar between the B pillars and C pillars that runs along the floor. Also my seats are mounted to the cage so there is basically another bar that goes across the floor at the front of the seats too.

I can take some pictures if you would like

sure! im a fan of pictures
 

Bukin 67

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
2,262
...I might bolt mine to the frame ....not sure yet

I wouldn't bolt it to the frame unless you need the option in the future to take the tie-ins off, which you still could if it was welded. Just cut & grind.
To through-bolt it you may need spacers inside the boxed frame also, not sure. Plates on either side may be enough though if they're wide and thick enough.
Tubing trussed with thick, wide end plates welded to the frame would be much stronger IMO.
 
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