Update 1/30 New bronco... I think I already broke some things? did I??

[digmy76]

Well, I got rid of my 76 and got this 73....see the link http://www.700r4inaford.com/broncopage/bronco0.html
Anyway...I got stuck in some crazy swamp mud and it sank to the top of the tires and it took some serious jerking with a recovery strap (about 25 "run and jerks"). I was also working the power steering pretty hard trying to get the tires to turn. After that I cleaned up as best I could and a few days later noticed a couple of problems. Now, the power steering whines when I turn the wheel sitting still or at very low speeds (previously, it was as quiet as a new car with little tires when sitting still). I noticed that the fluid was at the "add" level and have since added the correct amount of fluid, but it still does the same thing.
Second.... I now have a vibration that comes and goes (cycles about every 1 - 2 seconds, in and out) and it gets noticeable at about 55 mph and gets strong at 65 - 70 mph when on the gas just enough to maintain speed. I drove this rig 7 hrs when I bought it and was doing about 75 mph the whole time and it was like driving a Cadillac....so this is a new problem, but I don't know if it is related to the mud thing. I have checked the drive shafts and joints for mud clots, but there were not any, so I don't think there is an imbalance caused by caked on mud. There is some mud still stuffed around the front brakes and behind the front tires that is hard to get to and remove, but I wouldn't think that would be the problem?

 

[73stallion]

sounds like an engine vibe. make sure the harmonic balancer doesn't have any mud in it.

 

[Socal Tom]

It won't hurt to change the P/S fluid. You might have cooked it.
Tom

 

[digmy76]

I didn't think of that..., but I don't remember seeing much mud in the engine compartment. When you say "in the balancer", do you mean "on it"? I will check. I talked to the PO and he suggested that some mud was on the driveshafts and that could be doing it. They are Tom Woods shafts, and he said they are balanced to within a few ounces and that a little mud stuck on them could throw them off.

 

[musetech]

Whine: may have done some damage to the pump. I would first try to flush the system to eliminate the possibility of air trapped in the system.

-Raise the front end
-Disconnect the return hose leading to the PS pump
-Disconnect and ground the coil
-Crank while adding fluid and turning the wheels from lock to lock

If this doesn't quiet her down then you know the next step.

Vibration: Where was that tie strap hooked to?

-Remove all that mud before diagnosing further

 

[digmy76]

sounds like an engine vibe. make sure the harmonic balancer doesn't have any mud in it.

Oh., and if I rev the engine in P or N shouldn't I get the vibe then. So, if I don't get it in P or N, then it cannot be an engine vibe. (Is that correct thinking)?

 

[digmy76]

Whine: may have done some damage to the pump. I would first try to flush the system to eliminate the possibility of air trapped in the system.

-Raise the front end
-Disconnect the return hose leading to the PS pump
-Disconnect and ground the coil
-Crank while adding fluid and turning the wheels from lock to lock

If this doesn't quiet her down then you know the next step.

Vibration: Where was that tie strap hooked to?

-Remove all that mud before diagnosing further

Is the return the low pressure hose, and is it going to be squirting out fluid? The motor is an EFI and I have a supercharger on it and I am not sure where the coil is (I have only had this rig 2 weeks). Can it be done without cranking the motor? And what is "the next step"... A new pump?

 

[taxx]

Driveshaft could be muddy in places still. Could have thrown a wheel weight....

 

[rustbucket]

I agree with the wheel weight issue. But first I would take the wheels off and make sure there is no mud caked on the inside of the wheels. It could also be the u-joints that failed while in all that goop. Rebalance the tires, and if that doesn't cure it, look to the driveshafts.

 

[SaddleUp]

If you work the steering hard then it will boil the fluid (Hence it saying you needed to add some). In addition the boiling will introduce air into the system. I usually give mine a few days of driving after this has occurred and it normally quiets back down. On the vibration get rid of all of the mud first. Especially in the wheels and the drivelines. Then check the driveline u-joints really well to be sure they are still good. The vibration you describe is probably coming from the drivetrain itself somewhere. (Vibration that is associated with acceleration/deceleration) You should still eliminate the wheels even though they will normally cause vibrations at certain speeds with very little association to acceleration/deceleration. Once all of the above checks are made if it continues then run it by a tire shop and have them check the tires to make sure you didn't knock a weight off.

 

[digmy76]

Let me describe the vibration a little better. It is not a constant rattle, but it is a shutter/vibration that comes on strong then goes way all at a consistent rate and over a 1 - 2 second cylcle. I could describe it with sound a lot better than I can with words. Cycleing is the best way to describe it strong to dull to nothing to dull to strong to dull to nothing, all in about 1 - 2 seconds.
I don't know if this matters, but the transmission bellhousing where the dustcover should be over the flywheel/flexplate....that dustcover is not there and the flywheel is in plane view....is that bad. Could mud have gotten in that assembly or something.

 

[taxx]

Sounds harmonic which typically equals driveline. Make sure the mud is off EVERYthing that spins. I know here it is hard to do this time of year, but its possible. Then check the rear shaft for slop, either in the u-joints or the mounts. Rear shaft could throw a weight too if it had one but the chances of that are like 1 out of 1000000000000000000.

 

[SaddleUp]

Let me describe the vibration a little better. It is not a constant rattle, but it is a shutter/vibration that comes on strong then goes way all at a consistent rate and over a 1 - 2 second cylcle. I could describe it with sound a lot better than I can with words. Cycleing is the best way to describe it strong to dull to nothing to dull to strong to dull to nothing, all in about 1 - 2 seconds.
I don't know if this matters, but the transmission bellhousing where the dustcover should be over the flywheel/flexplate....that dustcover is not there and the flywheel is in plane view....is that bad. Could mud have gotten in that assembly or something.

This matches the vibration I envisioned from your original description. Yes, this could be due to mud around the flywheel/flexplate. Drivetrain vibrations can come from anywhere along the drivetrain even though they are most common from u-joints.

 

[SaddleUp]

BTW, If the problem turns out to be a u-joint then be sure to check the driveline angles.

 

[67EB_in_619]

how about some pics and info on that supercharged EFI?

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

If the vibe comes at certain road speeds, not engine speeds, then it is not engine related.
Did you notice any dents in the drive shaft? That would cause your symptoms. A bad U joint or CV joint still sounds like the most likely problem.

 

[digmy76]

how about some pics and info on that supercharged EFI?

Go to the link in the 1st message on this thread. It has all the details you want and more!

 

[digmy76]

If the vibe comes at certain road speeds, not engine speeds, then it is not engine related.
Did you notice any dents in the drive shaft? That would cause your symptoms. A bad U joint or CV joint still sounds like the most likely problem.

How can I tell which cv or u joint is the bad one? I got under the rig and yanked on the drive lines and couldn't feel any slop anywhere. How should I be looking for slop and what can I do to check for it?

 

[digmy76]

BTW, If the problem turns out to be a u-joint then be sure to check the driveline angles.

The PO really knew what he was doing on this rig...., but just in case, how do I check the driveline angles?

 

[SaddleUp]

The PO really knew what he was doing on this rig...., but just in case, how do I check the driveline angles?

The front angle probably will be off as it is with most since it requires extensive work to correct. Plus the front normally is not run at road speeds and therefore will last for quite awhile even with the angles bad. As long as yours is in 2 WD then that eliminates it anyway. For the rear driveline you will want the rearend pinion to be 2 deg. lower than a straight line up the driveline. The 2 deg. is so that the bearings move. This can be accomplished by either shimming the rearend or by cutting the perches off, rotating the axle, and then rewelding them.

When checking the ujoints be sure the transfer case is in neutral. (block the wheels) Otherwise the drivetrain will bind so that you will not be able to move the driveline. Checking the CV is a bit harder and will require removing the driveline at that end to look it over closely. It should be tight. If it flops around freely then the CV itself will need to be rebuilt.