UPDATE**stalling out and not restarting issue! **UPDATE

[mkaenel]

Here is the link to my original post:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133569

Below is a list of what I have done to correct the problem.

1. Removed the MSD box and took it in for a check. All was fine.
2. Replaced my fuel filter (note to self: NEVER get gas/fuel in your eye...hurts like a bitch)
3. Checked plugs and wires. All was fine as well.
4. Looked around for vacuum leaks. Not likely a problem because all plumbing is new.
5. Rechecked al the alternator wires and connections to make sure there was no bad connections or metal contacting metal creating a short.
6. I do know there is a hairline crack in one of the posts of the dizzy cap. Very small – not sure if this could be causing the issue.

So after all this I fire it up and it runs fine. So I was off for a drive of start-drive-stop-turn off (repeat). I ran through this about 5 times and all seamed well. Just like it always does.

So I head out for the gas station (about 3 miles away) and after putting gas in it I start to pull away and I feel it loosing power, starts to sputter and then just shuts off!

I was lucky this time and I was able to get it off to the side of the gas station in a parking spot. So I run through the usual stuff I normally check and I can't get it started. After a little waiting period (about 10 minutes) it fires up but runs really rough under half throttle and then just dies while the peddle is still at half throttle.

Never got it started and had it towed home.

I would like to try the spark test with a screw driver next time but it is hard to do this test by your self.

Any ideas as to what to check next?

Thanks,

Matt

 

[nj_thusar]

Just curious, but what carb setup do you have?

 

[Fitz24]

I know others have mentioned the fuel tank and filters. I had similar problems you are having on 2 different occasions. It would run fine for a little while then all of a sudden spudder and quite. Like running out of gas.

1. I would replace the fuel filter and it would run fine for a little while, then repeat. After a while it began to happen more frequently. I replaced my tank, ran new lines with inline filter and the problem went away.

2. I again had this problem after installing a new Edlebrock intake and Carb. Would run fine for a little while but would shutter and quit when it would get hot. A friend noticed I didn't have a spacer under the carb. It was mounted directly on the intake. Thought was that the heat was vaporizing the gas in the bowl. Installed a 1" spacer under the carb and problem went away.

I didn't read all the post in your threads so I appoligize if I repeated what someone else has stated. Hope you find the solution soon. Good Luck.

 

[Socal Tom]

I would confirm you have fuel to the carb and spark like Bowsher said. Having pressure at the carb doesn't prove there is fuel in the line, it could be air pressure.

That having been said, my guess is that your are having fuel problems. What electric fuel pump do you have on it, and how is it plumbed in? Having two pumps in the line may be creating a vapor lock opportunity. Where is your fuel filter in the system? Hot warm do your fuel lines get when this happens? Does it happen on the freeway, or just when the EB sits in traffic for a while?
Tom

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

I cant believe you have not changed out the cap if there is even the slightest sign of a crack. If not the main problem now, it will bite you in the buttt. Eliminate this first before tearing everything apart and not finding the problem. You are describing what problems I had using aftermarket(Mallory) ignition coils. Plugs had spark but would not fire up when hot.

 

[mkaenel]

There is definately fuel the the carb. I have taken the line off at the carb and fuel likes to go everywhere.

My fuel filter is about 2 feet from the tank. The electric pump is about 2-3 feet from the filter (not really sure which type...auto parts store) and is only turned on when necessary. Honestly...I have not had a need for the electric pump. I installed it in the fuel line just in case I needed it for a cold start.

From the electric pump it runs to the mechanical pump then to a Holley fuel pressure regulator http://store.summitracing.com/partd...rt=HLY-12-803BP&N=700+400178+115&autoview=sku. From there it runs to Summit fuel pressure guage right where it mounts to the carb.

There is already a 1/2 spacer between the intake manifold and the carb.

What I have found to be really odd (when it breaks down) is I can get it to fire up sometimes and while holding it at half throttle it just shuts off.

I checked the volts and it runs strong at about 14.5 while driving.

Of course it fired up fine in the garage 10 minutes ago. I can't figure this out for the life of me.

Any advise or direction?

I would confirm you have fuel to the carb and spark like Bowsher said. Having pressure at the carb doesn't prove there is fuel in the line, it could be air pressure.

That having been said, my guess is that your are having fuel problems. What electric fuel pump do you have on it, and how is it plumbed in? Having two pumps in the line may be creating a vapor lock opportunity. Where is your fuel filter in the system? Hot warm do your fuel lines get when this happens? Does it happen on the freeway, or just when the EB sits in traffic for a while?
Tom

 

[Swaayze]

I had these problems recently, and I think/hope I've fixed 'em. I initially suspected fuel issues then got onto a bad coil track. I replaced the coil and already had a carb kit so I rebuilt the factory carb as well at the same time (kinda wanted to do them separately so I'd know which was the problem but it didn't work out that way, I suppose I should put the old coil back on just to know). The carb was full of junk and varnish. Runs 1000% better now and am able to drive much longer now (haven't convinced myself it's "fixed" but so far so good...). Methinks the carb was the problem, even though it was often missing and seemed like electrics. FWIW.

 

[mkaenel]

I just pulled my carb. What should I be looking for with the carb. I have never opened a carb before.

Thanks,

Matt

I had these problems recently, and I think/hope I've fixed 'em. I initially suspected fuel issues then got onto a bad coil track. I replaced the coil and already had a carb kit so I rebuilt the factory carb as well at the same time (kinda wanted to do them separately so I'd know which was the problem but it didn't work out that way, I suppose I should put the old coil back on just to know). The carb was full of junk and varnish. Runs 1000% better now and am able to drive much longer now (haven't convinced myself it's "fixed" but so far so good...). Methinks the carb was the problem, even though it was often missing and seemed like electrics. FWIW.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

If stock 2 bbl carb, leave on truck. Just pull the top cover right after it dies for no reason. If full of fuel, then its not a fuel delivery issue.

 

[Swaayze]

Probably should plan a rebuild if you're gonna open it up. I hadn't done one when I did my first, but they're actually fairly straightforward. I suppose you could take of the top plate and inspect the bowl if you want to, though the gasket may not survive (mine was obviously bad at this stage, with lots of dirt and junk in the bottom and the float level was way off too). Basically just get the kit (it has an exploded view instruction sheet), disassemble carefully, soak everything not rubber in carb cleaner overnight and reassemble following the instructions.

Good luck.

BTW, you could have dirt in the inlet (sticky float-controlled needle valve) which could leave you with no fuel in the bowl, or it could be (as mine was) that the dirt somehow got in the bowl and could theoretically clog it up under heavier load. So IMO even if you get fuel to the bowl you might have fuel delivery issues, but I'm just a mediocre shadetree mech so these other guys may know better.

 

[RobertC]

me too..

The problem is exactly what is happening to me.. I so far replaced the fuel filter and macanical pump, cap rotor wires plugs. same results... now I am rebuilding the carb. but it looks like the carb has been rebuilt no to long ago.. all parts seem pretty darn good shape. The truck will run good untill hot then sputters and shuts off.

 

[Socal Tom]

The only thing I have left is something my brother figured out. He had too many keys dangling from his key switch, and when he would hit a bump or make a turn they would turn off the engine. He had the 30 yr old key switch and it had too much slop in it.
Tom

 

[luderchris]

I had the exact issue back in the day on my Jeep CJ-8. After replacing all fuel related things, we figured out it was the coil. Replace the coil.

 

[mkaenel]

Just curious if you ever found a solution for this problem.

My truck is in pieces (engine stripped down to the block) right now due to other issues but I have a feeling this problem will still be there once it is all back together.

Matt

The problem is exactly what is happening to me.. I so far replaced the fuel filter and macanical pump, cap rotor wires plugs. same results... now I am rebuilding the carb. but it looks like the carb has been rebuilt no to long ago.. all parts seem pretty darn good shape. The truck will run good untill hot then sputters and shuts off.

 

[broncobandit]

I vote coil..

 

[RobertC]

all day all night

so I basically tried everything.. in this order: replaced cap rotor wire plugs, replaced fuel filter, replaced mechanical fuel pump, rebuilt carb. (it was squeaky clean, looked like it had a rebuild not to long ago) Replaced coil.. same issue! I think the carb is junk... unless it is the distributor.. The truck will fire right up has fuel in bowl.. then dies all of a sudden when warmed up!?!?! i live 15 min south of the stampeded and I cant go due to this!!! RUNs AMAZING before it dies.. electrical seems to check out ok. . > I ran a positive wire directly to the batt. to the new coil.. still same issue. O and I did remounted the fuel filters to prevent vapor lock. Then removed them.. when i turn the truck over with new and old pump it pumps then stops then pumps a bit more then stop ect.. I believe that is normal for a mechanical pump right?

 

[Swaayze]

Choke problems perhaps?

 

[johnnyc1]

I had the same problem, pulled the tank drained it , sealed it, replaced all in line filters and electronic fuel pump. It runs great now so far drove it about 30 miles.

 

[mkaenel]

I am on to bigger and better issues now! My engine is stripped down to the block for a rebuild. I some how got a piece of metal in the engine and it hammered two pistons.

Since the heads were off I sent them out for a seal check (low pressure in two cylinders)and two sets of valves were not sealing properly. First problem fixed (head rebuild) - $330.00!

Thene there was uneven wear on the engine/crank bearings so I sent the crank out for a check. It came back without a problem and they commented it was a cherry looking crank.

Next I took the block in and it is currently being checked if it needs to be line bored.

Next week I get to order a new set of KB forged pistons! I am really stoked I get to keep pouring money into this project and it just sits there.


I did finally get my front bumper so that is kind of cool!

Matt