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Upper Trac Bar Mount hitting C-bushing on Compression

El_Ducko

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
84
Loc.
LA LA Land
The previous owner of my bronco welded some additional steel onto the factory trac bar bracket to drop the trac bar for the 5.5" lift with DUFF long travel tubular radius arms. This steel is making contact with the C-bushing. I will be purchasing an adjustable trac bar soon because the stock trac bar is rubbing the diff cover. I think it must be the D30 trac bar. Otherwise the steering and axle alignment look good and drive great.
Should I just grind some material off this track bar addition to try to keep it from making contact? Or is something wrong with the bigger picture?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40638287@N05/9731892375/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40638287@N05/9735121582/
 
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toddz69

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Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,264
Looks like you have a '76 or '77. In the bigger picture, I'd get rid of the trac bar extension and raise the trac bar on the axle end instead. I'd also consider going to a drop pitman arm with less drop and doing a TRO swap as well.

Todd Z.
 

toddz69

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,264
The axle is out of a 76'
I currently have the Bronco Graveyard Trail-Proof Steering system. I guess the tierod is below the arm on the knuckle but I fail to see how moving the tie rod on top of the knuckle will help with my problem.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12780-1966-77-trail-proof-bronco-steering-system.html

It doesn't have anything to do with your immediate concern about the drop bracket hitting the bushing. Removing the drop portion of the bracket and putting a riser on your axle will likely take care of that quite nicely.

However, you had asked about whether there was "something wrong with the bigger picture" and so my reply, as I stated, was addressing the big picture and a TRO would help on several fronts in that area.

EDIT: I wouldn't recommend a TRO with this setup. I've never been comfortable with stacking SREs in a single shear configuration.
Todd Z.
 
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El_Ducko

El_Ducko

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
84
Loc.
LA LA Land
I guess by "bigger picture" I meant, is something wrong with the placement of the axle that is causing this. The axle seems fairly centered under the rig. I also know people have similar issues with hitting the frame with axle mounted brackets.
I am curious if I can trim the current bracket so it doesn't hit without weakening it too much.
 

76 bronco J

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Messages
1,480
The axle is out of a 76'
I currently have the Bronco Graveyard Trail-Proof Steering system. I guess the tierod is below the arm on the knuckle but I fail to see how moving the tie rod on top of the knuckle will help with my problem.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12780-1966-77-trail-proof-bronco-steering-system.html

>>> when Todd mentioned looks like you have a '76 or '77 , he was saying that because the track bar mount on your frame is a '76'-'77 only item...they drop down farther than the '66-'75's & kick out slightly to the drivers side....also if that's a '76 front axle on your truck, someone cut off the factory welded on bracket that goes with the factory '76-'77 sway bar.....
technically that truck might be a '76 'cause the true VIN stampings are on the frame not the removable glove box door like lots thought for years.... if your aware of all that, ok. .... if your not aware that might 'cause some issues in the future depending on several factors............
 
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El_Ducko

El_Ducko

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
84
Loc.
LA LA Land
Sh*t. Well the good state of CA better not find out or I will have to pass smog. Good thing it's registered in good standing as a 71!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,108
I think I would modify the upper mount in a couple of ways.
Yes, you can trim the outer edge and maybe angle it in (you still need the material there for strength) but at the same time I would extend the mount inward along the line of the trackbar just to put more material around the bolt.
I would also use that as an opportunity to reinforce the whole configuration with a second layer of material or something like that.
Overkill? Perhaps. But a single weld along the two pieces of metal could be a weak link depending on the quality of the weld and if it's welded on the inside and other welding-stuff that I'm not qualified to suggest.

If doing those mods doesn't look like it's going to help clear the bushing any better, then like Todd said, you're better off just removing the extension completely, putting the bar back in it's old stock hole and then raising the lower mount higher on the axle with a riser.
While your '76/'77 upper mount is a strong piece, a riser could conceivably be even stronger.
Depending on what use you put your EB too then (hardcore 4-wheeling?), lessening the leverage on your frame there at the upper bracket is a good thing.
With supposedly 5.5" of lift (see comments below) and the appropriate tire size, the upper mod and riser option looks even better.

It's just that this is such a critical piece of "componentry" that you would never want it to fail. On the trail and especially on the street.
If you leave it in the current configuration then, and just remove some material, reinforcing it somehow would also be a good thing.

I can't say how much more of a bend there is in a 44 track bar vs one from the 30, as they were very close to the same, if not exactly identical. But it can't hurt.
I'm sure others here will remember if they're in fact different. I know we've discussed it but can't remember what was said about it.
Reason I even bring it up is that I've seen even the correct trackbar hit a diff cover before. Not very common, but does happen. Maybe someone can compare curves?

Is that really 5.5" of lift? Doesn't look that tall and you have very good (shallow) angles on the linkages. Yes, your track bar and drag link are not parallel, but since your track bar is quite a bit shorter, it's probably perfect.
Do you have any bump-steer issues on the street? Or does it steer and handle pretty good?

Any other late-model bits on your '71? Gas doors and the lack of the threaded J-bolt for the parking brake? The really big drum brakes on the back? No EVAP condensing tank behind the driver's shoulder?
Just curious.

Paul
 

u10072

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
2,249
The only way to help keep the 76/77 tracbar mount from hitting the c-bushing is to trim the mount just a little in the areas that come in contact with the c-bushing first. You can also just ever so slightly offset the front end to the drivers side. You also if you are going to a "T" style steering versus the "Y" style steering the tie-rod MUST be under the knuckle. If you go just rockcrawing the tie rod under doesn't apply-- but if you are going blasting where you are going to full compression the tracbar mount will absolutely hit the mount on really any year. About the only way around this is to move the tracbar mount back about an inch. The only way you an know exactly how your front suspension cycles is by supporting the frame, remove the coil springs, and jack up the front end and watch what is going on. Another option to the tracbar hitting the mount is a radius arm that is adjustable. The key is the cycling the unloaded suspension through its travel and see what it does nice and slow :)
 
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