Using body adhesive/glue for floor pans

[Blue71]

I have done dozens of floor pan replacements in Early Broncos and was wondering if I could use body adhesive instead of my normal welding on drivers and pass pans. ? I have a local body guy that will lend me his gun, I just need the tubes of adhesive. Will really cut down on hole drilling time, weld time, grinding time, and overall seems cheaper and easier. Any advice or suggestions? Was thinking about giving it a shot. Had planned on cutting them to fit almost exact, drinking so I have bare metal at all points that will be touching, glue, and use a few screws to really cinch it down tight.

Thanks,

Blue71

 

[bronconut73]

When you are lapping steel like in our floor pans the new adhesives can and often are superior to welding as the tensile strength of the glue is generally greater than that of the gauge of steel in question.
The lap will likely rust again if welded but will be truly sealed/waterproofed with the adhesive.
Having said all that, the method of screwing the panels in then pulling each screw and welding up the hole is so well , proven and easy it is hard to argue with.

But in many lapped steel welded joints the adhesive can be superior in many ways.

 

[englewoodcowboy]

I say go for it. I have used epoxy for bonding tower structures on buildings when I used t do that line of work and the stuff is tough as nails. Worse case, you try it, it works and you don't like it so you can revert back to the old way, best case, as you stated , you save lots of time for something else.

 

[cams-76]

panel bond is what i have used before on different applications and it is great. i have never used it on floor pans but the body shop i worked in years ago used it for a lot of things, truck bed sides etc. love the stuff.

 

[DirtDonk]

If there's any question at all, just throw a few pop rivets in there for good measure.
My driver's floor is "glued-n-screwed" and has been perfect. Just used standard silicone though, and quite a few pop-rivets.

Paul

 

[Jedhead]

Interesting...... My first bronco rust repair some 32 years ago consisted of Budwiser cans cut flat, riveted and fiberglassed over! Wonder how they are still holding up? Work with what you have! Wish I had pictures of those repairs! Funny thing was it was a 73 wreck with a 66 eyebrow grill donor body/tub. If we only knew then what we know now.

 

[bronconut73]

If there's any question at all, just throw a few pop rivets in there for good measure.
My driver's floor is "glued-n-screwed" and has been perfect. Just used standard silicone though, and quite a few pop-rivets.

Paul

Funny.....did mine this way 23 years ago. The Drivers side is still like that. I have promised myself that one day I will pull it out and weld it in properly but over 20 years and it is still perfect......hard to argue with that. I hate it when someone sees it though....haha...

 

[Pa PITT]

... So I've got a Bronco setting in my shop I need to add floor boards into. Do you guys have any part no for the different glues you use. I used to sell 3M so I like 3M panel bond. Give me you pets in this field .. As I was thinking of just gluing mine in place as my Bronco has very little rust .

 

[allenfahey]

You can use panel bond on anything that is not a structural part. That means the core support, aprons, frame, ect. The only problem I see with using it on the floor is getting a tight enough fit for the adhesive be effective. The couple guys that I saw demo it for 3M and Lord Fusor tell techs you need a lot of clamps. I guess you could use very small self tapping screws but that leaves holes in the floor. If you choose that route use two part seam sealer on the holes.

PaPITT.... Here is the tech sheet for 3M 8115 90 minute Panel Bond. I think they have 3, 30, and 90 minute work time adhesives.

 

[jimmyv65]

You can use panel bond on anything that is not a structural part. That means the core support, aprons, frame, ect. The only problem I see with using it on the floor is getting a tight enough fit for the adhesive be effective. The couple guys that I saw demo it for 3M and Lord Fusor tell techs you need a lot of clamps. I guess you could use very small self tapping screws but that leaves holes in the floor. If you choose that route use two part seam sealer on the holes.

PaPITT.... Here is the tech sheet for 3M 8115 90 minute Panel Bond. I think they have 3, 30, and 90 minute work time adhesives.

Very good comment here. One thing to consider is that the back part of the drivers side floor is structural for the parking brake front cable boss. My floors were replace with panel bond and the parking brake when applied would pull it apart a bit. I had to weld in a small brace.

 

[Blue71]

Thanks for the help and great info. I'll let ya know what I decide and post some results.

Thanks guys
Andy
Blue71

 

[NicksTrix]

don't forget the #10 2.5" long self tappers you need to leave in...
I have one in now that has the hellraiser/ porcupine look... it' special, just like the guy who tried to put it together....