Valve train problem 351W

[cactushorse]

My motor sat for well over a year. It has less than 1000 miles on the full rebuild. I just got it back up running now and it seems to have developed a noise I can't quite make out.
It definitely sounds like something valve spring/ rocker arm related, but I didn't find anything after pulling the valve covers. Keepers are in place, no broken springs that I can see. It doesn't seem to affect the way it runs.

It has Edlebrock aluminum heads with Harland Sharp roller rockers. (1.6?)

Doesn't strike me as a collapsed lifter. Any thoughts where to go next?

 

[68ford]

With valve covers off and ignition fuse removed, crank the engine over for about 10 seconds to build oil pressure. The crank it over on short engagements of the starter untill all rocker arms have on the base circle of the cam. Make sure none have any play.

 

[pcf_mark]

Without hearing the noise it could be something completely different - like an exhaust leak at the header. Or a bad collector gaskets. Both tick like a lifter and can fool you.

68 Ford has the right suggestion - inspect the valvetrain for anything loose. If it was tight when you last ran it nothing should just come loose. But it is started up with something starved of oil or the oil was grungy something can happen. Get to TDC on #1 and check both rockers for any slop. Then rotate 90 degrees and check the next cylinder in the firing order. Keep going through the firing order. If everything checks out your valve train is probably ok. I have seen the needles in roller rockers fail exactly one time. It showed itself as excess valve lash.

If the exhaust and valvetrain check out take off the belts and see if it goes away.

Just things I like to check before I start thinking I have a problem. If the oil has not been changed I would throw that in there before I looked into the engine itself.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Have you tried pulling spark plug wires one at a time and see if that narrows down a cylinder?

 

[73azbronco]

valve covers on, use a mechanic stethoscope to find the location, then start removing stuff

 

[Apogee]

Press-in or screw-in rocker arm studs?

Any aluminum shavings from any of the Harland Sharp rocker arms?

 

[cactushorse]

With valve covers off and ignition fuse removed, crank the engine over for about 10 seconds to build oil pressure. The crank it over on short engagements of the starter untill all rocker arms have on the base circle of the cam. Make sure none have any play.

I will start here.

 

[cactushorse]

Press-in or screw-in rocker arm studs?

Any aluminum shavings from any of the Harland Sharp rocker arms?

Screw in studs, clean as can be.

 

[cactushorse]

Have you tried pulling spark plug wires one at a time and see if that narrows down a cylinder?

Both my son and i were convinced it was coming from the valve cover area. I'm not getting any sort of miss but pulling the plugs seems wise.

 

[svobronco]

What type of noise? A tick, a squeek? I had lifter that wouldn't send oil up the pushrod and the rocker arm started to run dry and squeek.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Both my son and i were convinced it was coming from the valve cover area. I'm not getting any sort of miss but pulling the plugs seems wise.

Not looking for a miss, looking for a change. If you pull a plug wire and there is a change in the sound, now you are narrowing down what hole you need to be looking at. It is a diagnostic test that might help narrow down where the problem is at.

 

[cactushorse]

What type of noise? A tick, a squeek? I had lifter that wouldn't send oil up the pushrod and the rocker arm started to run dry and squeek.

Like something is being tossed around inside a valve cover. A "ting-ting" sound.

 

[cactushorse]

Not looking for a miss, looking for a change. If you pull a plug wire and there is a change in the sound, now you are narrowing down what hole you need to be looking at. It is a diagnostic test that might help narrow down where the problem is at.

Isn't pulling a wire going to cause a change enough in itself?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Isn't pulling a wire going to cause a change enough in itself?

If you get a consistent change on every cylinder, you can tell they are all firing even and the issue isn't related to a single cylinder firing.

But if you pull a plug and the noise makes a change, something to do with firing that cylinder is involved with that noise. Now instead of a whole engine to look for problems, you have a single cylinder to look at.

It is a diagnostic tool to help you find the problem, not the answer to the problem. Either result will tell you something. A simple test to look for clues.

 

[cactushorse]

If you get a consistent change on every cylinder, you can tell they are all firing even and the issue isn't related to a single cylinder firing.

But if you pull a plug and the noise makes a change, something to do with firing that cylinder is involved with that noise. Now instead of a whole engine to look for problems, you have a single cylinder to look at.

It is a diagnostic tool to help you find the problem, not the answer to the problem. Either result will tell you something. A simple test to look for clues.

Now I'm following you. I will give it a try.

 

[cactushorse]

Update........ I'm going with the collapsed lifters theory now. I have as much as .050 clearance at the rocker arm/valve now. Not every one but several. What started off as a little noisy rapidly turned into a massive failure very quickly.
Time to buys some parts and enjoy my non air conditioned garage!

 

[1970 Palmer]

Update........ I'm going with the collapsed lifters theory now. I have as much as .050 clearance at the rocker arm/valve now. Not every one but several. What started off as a little noisy rapidly turned into a massive failure very quickly.
Time to buys some parts and enjoy my non air conditioned garage!

I'd do some more diagnostic work before you pull it apart.

You were given some good advice already about pulling a wire to listen for any change in noise.

For example, dropping a new set of lifters in will not fix a "flat cam".

Using a very long screw driver works great as a statoscope.

 

[cactushorse]

While I don't disagree with the advice I have been given,the motor is making too much noise now to continue to run it. I should have mentioned in my previous post that i can press down with my thumb on some pushrods and get movement. I don't recall ever be able to do this to a lifter