Whats your fix?

[dtm030]

Okay so I have read a bunch of things on here about steering issues and threads on death wobble etc. but I am wanting to know of your real world steering fixes?

I have a duff 3.5" lift on my '76 and just installed new bcbroncos tro arms with heim joints and it has made the steering a lot tighter than the factory crap but after a wheel alignment it drives straight but has a big caster problem. The lift is the big bad duff lift that came with caster bushings but it doesn't have enough caster. I am not trying to say anything bad about a business as it had the lift on it when I got it, and who's to say the previous owner didn't instal the kit for a earlier model? Anyway I am trying to figure out what's your method's to fix caster? I had lifted trucks before that I used drop brackets to lower the front arms but am not sure what everyone is doing for 3.5" lifts?

 

[TwoDalesDad]

First off...there is no carrier bearing....related to your front axle...or rear axle...now....what degree bushings are in your c caps...?......what about ball joints?.....so you don't just "throw" parts at your bronco....and not fix it..take it tto a reptuable allignment shop.....have them diagnois the problem......if it was mine ....thats where i would start....

 

[Stephen]

^^^ agreed, try to get an idea on what the problem is before throwing parts at your bronco that wont fix the problem.

 

[broncnaz]

There are a few methods to get more caster most likely you already have the 6 or 7 degree brushings so theres not much else you can do there. Next probably the easiest and one of the cheapest which most people dont want to do because they reduce ground clearance is the radius arm drop brackets.
After that a extened radius arm swap will help gain some caster back and some venders even offer ones that allow caster adjustments.
The last option which is commonlly done costs very little as no parts are required is to cut the welds off the C's on the axles and spin them to gain back caster and set your pinion angle then reweld. Its just a little more work that requires a good welder and careful measuring.
There are other things that can affect handling like tire pressures, current tire wear and even though you have new tierods you may need more toe in. But of course more caster is usually still needed in most broncos with 3.5 or higher lifts.

 

[ransil]

Do you have death wobble or just shitty steering?

 

[dtm030]

First off...there is no carrier bearing....related to your front axle...or rear axle...now....what degree bushings are in your c caps...?......what about ball joints?.....so you don't just "throw" parts at your bronco....and not fix it..take it tto a reptuable allignment shop.....have them diagnois the problem......if it was mine ....thats where i would start....

I am not trying to just "throw parts" at the thing but it won't align correctly without making some changes. When I said "after a wheel alignment" that meant that I had it done at a reputable place where the guys had gone to a lot of trouble to fix things for me. You seem to always answer peoples questions with stupid answers, I am here for help not criticism so next time don't bother.

 

[dtm030]

There are a few methods to get more caster most likely you already have the 6 or 7 degree brushings so theres not much else you can do there. Next probably the easiest and one of the cheapest which most people dont want to do because they reduce ground clearance is the radius arm drop brackets.
After that a extened radius arm swap will help gain some caster back and some venders even offer ones that allow caster adjustments.
The last option which is commonlly done costs very little as no parts are required is to cut the welds off the C's on the axles and spin them to gain back caster and set your pinion angle then reweld. Its just a little more work that requires a good welder and careful measuring.
There are other things that can affect handling like tire pressures, current tire wear and even though you have new tierods you may need more toe in. But of course more caster is usually still needed in most broncos with 3.5 or higher lifts.

Thank you for this. My first thought was to drop the arms as I am not too worried about the clearance issues. I have done that before with great success. I have never needed so much work for only a 3.5" lift on a vehicle as for longer wheelbase vehicles you don't need such dramatic changes.

I would like to re-weld the brackets on the housing but I am not that great at welding and don't really have the time to do that.

Lastly, which extended radius arms would be your choice here?

Thanks.

 

[Dave]

If you are running wheels that move the wider tires outwards and not proportionally inwards, your scrub radius will increase. That's a point projected from the axle steering geometry to the footprint of the tire. Caster defines that point fore and aft. Both can effect steering characteristics.

 

[bmc69]

it drives straight but has a big caster problem.

How many degrees of caster does it have? My '76 also has a 3.5" lift and with the 7-degree bushings the caster is sufficient (around 3 degrees, IIRC) and it drives just fine. (35" tires with about 3" of backspacing on the wheels FWIW).

When I'm fabbing up everything from "scratch", I shoot for 6 degrees of caster. But sometimes that is hard to achieve without messing up something else..like pinion angle, for example.

I have dropped arms on my '69 and had them on my '78 FS Bronc for many years. They do a fine job of adding caster back but are hateful on the trails. But you said that the latter is not a concern in your case, so....

 

[dtm030]

If you are running wheels that move the wider tires outwards and not proportionally inwards, your scrub radius will increase. That's a point projected from the axle steering geometry to the footprint of the tire. Caster defines that point fore and aft. Both can effect steering characteristics.

Thanks bud. Is there a larger version of this you can put up again? I tried enlarging it but it got too pixelated to see.

How many degrees of caster does it have? My '76 also has a 3.5" lift and with the 7-degree bushings the caster is sufficient (around 3 degrees, IIRC) and it drives just fine. (35" tires with over 4" of backspacing on the wheels FWIW).

When I'm fabbing up everything from "scratch", I shoot for 6 degrees of caster. But sometimes that is hard to achieve without messing up something else..like pinion angle, for example.

I have dropped arms on my '69 and had them on my '78 FS Bronc for many years. They do a fine job of adding caster back but are hateful on the trails. But you said that the latter is not a concern in your case, so....

Okay, thanks for the info. I need to find my wheel alignment sheet and get the exact numbers. My pinon angle seems to be fine. What brand of bushings are you using?

 

[Dave]

Just google steering scrub radius and you will find bunches of info.

In a lot of cases we take some pretty well thought factory steering systems an convert them to hay wagon technology. Ok for the dirt but not so good on the highway.

 

[surfer-b]

The best fix I have found is to rotate the yokes, its a lot of wrk but when done its worth it.
I usually install 4* bushings then get the caster and chamber #'s, this will tell me how much I need to rotate them, I shoot for 7* pos. I like the 4's because if needed I can add more caster with 7's or install 2's and take some out after I'm done rotating the yokes. Also with the 4's the pinion will be at a better angle. I have never cut the C's because it will rotate the pinion down too much for my likings.

 

[bmc69]

Okay, thanks for the info. I need to find my wheel alignment sheet and get the exact numbers. My pinon angle seems to be fine. What brand of bushings are you using?

I'm not even sure...I use Duff's, WH and Prothane (I think that's the brand) interchangeably and lose track of 'ew's is in what.

I had a brain fart on the backspacing I posted ....I'm actually running around a bit less than 3" including the 1" spacers. That to avoid interference between my rims and TREs.

 

[Socal Tom]

7 degree bushings should get you back to stock with 3.5 inches of lift, but the are often installed backwards. Check that before you go crazy.
Tom

 

[75junebug]

Take a look at your track bar. Is it an adjustable one? Did they install the right one? Do you have the trac bar and Tie rod parallel? There is a difference between the 66-75 and 76-77. A vendor sent the wrong one to my brother, and it was pretty scary on the road, even though it tracks straight. Also check the welds around the trac bar mount, you could be having some movement there as well.
The lift on my 75 is a 3.5", with 3 degree bushings(I think, its been a long time ago). I originally performed the lift without the adjustable trackbar. The adjustable trackbar was installed a couple years later with new tierods and ends.....The two "reputable shops" I took it to for alignment were apparently not Ford people, I either had the wobble on a bump, or excessive right turning capabilities, with little or no left turning.... I ended up adjusting, measuring and roadtesting by trail and error to get everything right

 

[Thunder Chicken]

i had to use drop brackets and rebuild steering box to fix my woes

 

[doradoguy]

Ok. You guys are scaring me. My suspension lift is next and I thought I would purchase one of these complete 3.5 inch lift kits. Are these the fun times I get to look forward to?
If so I'll go to 4.5'' and deal with all the problems. Sounds like it doesn't matter of the size of the lift you have to jack around with the front end alignment. I need to be able to change lanes at 70 mph.

 

[doradoguy]

I'm all for cutting the knuckles but didn't think it would be nessary with such a small lift.

 

[bronconut73]

Dorado,

Don't stress. I'm thinking the PO put the c-bushings in wrong. 7 degree bushings should get you back to "pretty close" to where you belong with a 3.5" kit.
3.5" is a relatively mild lift but if your still concerned get a WH 2.5" lift and a 1" body lift.
I hear 2.5" rides and handles great.

 

[Dave]

I need to be able to change lanes at 70 mph.

It'll probably do that all by itself! ;D Just kidding!