Wheel backspacing?

[scorpio007]

I am looking to buy some new wheels for my 67 they would be 15x10's on a 5.5 bolt pattern but I am not sure what the backspacing should be. I would like to add disk brakes soon and will probably go with a complete kit from tom's or something similar. I don't want to run into any clearance issues. I heard that if you just order the standard wheels with little or no backspacing you are usually ok. If someone can confirm this or has information otherwise please let me know. I was also considering a wheel with more dish to it to get that look of a wider stance let me know what you guys have done and what you think.
Thank's in advance
SCORPIO

 

[SaddleUp]

You need about 3 1/2" of backspacing which is standard for 15x10 wheels. I'm running 2 1/2" backspacing now but there is a noticeable gap between the rotor and the wheel that was not there with 3 1/2".

 

[fire bronc]

backspacing

I'm Running 4.5 Backspacing And I'm Running 17 Inch Wheels And It Clears Everything. And The 17" Wheels Look Sweet With My 36"

 

[SaddleUp]

Unless you special order wheels you will find a hard time getting anything other than a 15" to widen your stance. For instance the widest 17" rim you will normally find is 9" with 4 1/2" of backspacing. In comparison to the 15" x 10" rim you are already looking at the stance will be 2" narrower on each side or 4" narrower overall. 15" rims are pretty easy to get with less backspacing though which would increase the width even more. The same 15" x 10" rim with 2 1/2" of backspacing would be 6" wider at the bead plus a bit in the casing of the tire. The downfall to this is that it will put more strain on the bearings. The plus obviously is that it will be more stable.

Note: If I ever switch to full width axles then I will go with 17" x 8" x 4 1/2" so I can tuck the tires in a bit. (I want to keep it street legal)

 

[Amac70]

QUOTE]Note: If I ever switch to full width axles then I will go with 17" x 8" x 4 1/2" so I can tuck the tires in a bit. (I want to keep it street legal)[/QUOTE]

I run full widths and 17x9 with 5.5 bs and they still stick out a good 2.5 inches past my flares.

 

[Madgyver]

I'm Running 4.5 Backspacing And I'm Running 17 Inch Wheels And It Clears Everything. And The 17" Wheels Look Sweet With My 36"

Got pics? please post....

 

[SaddleUp]

I run full widths and 17x9 with 5.5 bs and they still stick out a good 2.5 inches past my flares.

That's close to where mine sits now. I was concerned with the taller tire being spongy on the street but it ended up handling really well.

 

[scorpio007]

Depending on the tire your looking to mount (larger than ....size), I personally would look into a 16" or 17" rim. With the 17 for the largest sized tire 37/38.

15's are good for up to 31/32 maybe 33" looks wise. IMHO. 3 1/2"bs good here.

I am going to run 33/12.50/15" on The 15x10 wheel its pretty much what I have on there now but they are old steel wheels with chrome rings, and the rings dont fit right so they make nosie. And the super swampers are old and worn. I am currently looking at a set of five eagle alloy rims and a new set of Goodyear MTR's or possibly BFG Mud Terrain TKO's. I am getting five so there is a matching spare like I have currently on my WH rear tire carrier.
I would love to have 17's but just can't afford them. Thanks for the help guy's much appriciated.

 

[SaddleUp]

I was very happy with the way the BFG MT's ran out both on the street and trail. Much quieter than the Irok's on there now.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

When you say you want to add disks, you have to be a little more specific as this will determine the allowable wheel back spacing. I presently run '76 knuckle-out disks on mine with a F150 TRO setup from BC Broncos. 3.5" is the absolute largest amount of BS you can get away with and you cannot mount wheel weights on the inner rim.

The full-size truck 5-bolt spindle knuckles had the steering mounts angle more "in" towards the center so you could run them on a ford disk setup and get away with 4" of BS.

when I had the Y linkage on the '76 you could get away with 4" of BS, but there was some self-clearancing evident and you would be much safer with 3.75" of BS.

If doing the chevy parts disk swap on a 66-75 knuckle. 66-75 knuckles all mount the steering linkage closer together so you can get away with 4" (or maybe more) of BS with the tie rod under the knuckle.
As for Tie rod over on a 66-75, I don't know.

 

[SaddleUp]

When you say you want to add disks, you have to be a little more specific as this will determine the allowable wheel back spacing. I presently run '76 knuckle-out disks on mine with a F150 TRO setup from BC Broncos. 3.5" is the absolute largest amount of BS you can get away with and you cannot mount wheel weights on the inner rim.

The full-size truck 5-bolt spindle knuckles had the steering mounts angle more "in" towards the center so you could run them on a ford disk setup and get away with 4" of BS.

when I had the Y linkage on the '76 you could get away with 4" of BS, but there was some self-clearancing evident and you would be much safer with 3.75" of BS.

If doing the chevy parts disk swap on a 66-75 knuckle. 66-75 knuckles all mount the steering linkage closer together so you can get away with 4" (or maybe more) of BS with the tie rod under the knuckle.
As for Tie rod over on a 66-75, I don't know.

The backspacing on disks hitting is not an issue with larger (17" for example) wheels.
On the Chevy disk swap 3 1/2" works fine even with TRO on 66-75 knuckles. 3 3/4" would probably also work and perhaps even 4". At 3 1/2" I had extra room but I don't recall if it was enough to go to 4".