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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
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Where to attach/route wiring harness to firewall?
- Thread starter WDGS
- Start date
Not sure which harness you are going to use but I'm doing a Painless right now and their instructions took all the mystery out.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,427
So the original harness is completely out and you don't have a reference?
If it's still there, I'm pretty sure that Painless expects you to route it along the bottom channel of the dash just like stock.
If you're lucky, there are still some plastic and/or steel harness clips bolted up under there for you to follow.
There's room under there. Your job is just to make sure you don't put it where it interferes with things that can't move out of the way. Like switches and control cables, as well as things like ash trays and glove boxes.
And Painless lets you put the engine section back through the original firewall hole behind the driver's side valve cover.
What year is your Bronco too? The different years had different layouts where the engine side of the firewall is concerned. Under the dash was not so much varied, but under the hood was.
It should reveal itself once you start laying it out.
Paul
If it's still there, I'm pretty sure that Painless expects you to route it along the bottom channel of the dash just like stock.
If you're lucky, there are still some plastic and/or steel harness clips bolted up under there for you to follow.
There's room under there. Your job is just to make sure you don't put it where it interferes with things that can't move out of the way. Like switches and control cables, as well as things like ash trays and glove boxes.
And Painless lets you put the engine section back through the original firewall hole behind the driver's side valve cover.
What year is your Bronco too? The different years had different layouts where the engine side of the firewall is concerned. Under the dash was not so much varied, but under the hood was.
It should reveal itself once you start laying it out.
Paul
Paul - I think you just answered my question! This is my first bronco restore so I have no reference to where it should be - along the bottom of the dash makes sense now.
Other than getting confirmation on that the painless install is a breeZe!
Other than getting confirmation on that the painless install is a breeZe!
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,427
What year EB are you working with?
There are one or two things to do differently between the different years (early vs late), but it's all doable, and most of what you need is in the Painless kit.
Including an aluminum plate that should be for covering the old rectangular holes on the '66 to very early '71 models.
Paul
There are one or two things to do differently between the different years (early vs late), but it's all doable, and most of what you need is in the Painless kit.
Including an aluminum plate that should be for covering the old rectangular holes on the '66 to very early '71 models.
Paul
It's a '74 with all three holes in the firewall (so I can run the engine stuff separately as well (like you said).
Any other stuff I need to keep in mind?
What about grounding to the dash? M dash is powerd coated, for one and my tub is linex'd. I thought about attaching ground to dash and running a wire from the same screw to the negative terminal on the battery.
Any other stuff I need to keep in mind?
What about grounding to the dash? M dash is powerd coated, for one and my tub is linex'd. I thought about attaching ground to dash and running a wire from the same screw to the negative terminal on the battery.
I just followed along with the instructions starting with mounting the fuse box to the glove box and working across to the driver's side.
The 3 sections that go through the fire wall are marked driver side, passenger side, and engine which is the hole near where the throttle linkage goes through.
I believe there is a ground that goes to the dash which is like the next thing you do after you mount the fuse box.
The 3 sections that go through the fire wall are marked driver side, passenger side, and engine which is the hole near where the throttle linkage goes through.
I believe there is a ground that goes to the dash which is like the next thing you do after you mount the fuse box.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,427
Get out the Dremel!
Only slightly kidding there actually. Even though you can get a "sometimes decent" ground by simply using a self-tapping screw to anchor the ground ring, I much prefer to clean up the area around the hole of all paint/coating to guarantee good flow. Then I just squirt a quick shot of spray paint over it when I'm done to keep rust at bay for the next few decades or so.
It's often awkward to do, what with it being under the dash, but it's worth it.
Also worth it, and totally in the category of overkill (which is just barely enough in my book), is to "bond" the instrument cluster to the dash, the dash to the body and the windshield frame to the body.
All this takes is you making three extra little short jumper wires with ring terminals at each end to mount to a convenient location.
For the windshield frame, I like to use the corner there by the door, where it can hide under the big chunk of door seal rubber and out of sight.
If you were real industrious, you could do it from underneath and near where the wiper wires go. But that looks like such a hassle, I've never even tried.
Any old 14ga wire would do the trick in these instances. You just want to make sure you have something to supplement the mounting screws of each of those components.
After things get powder coated, it's not too surprising things don't connect very well the old way.
Good luck.
Paul
Only slightly kidding there actually. Even though you can get a "sometimes decent" ground by simply using a self-tapping screw to anchor the ground ring, I much prefer to clean up the area around the hole of all paint/coating to guarantee good flow. Then I just squirt a quick shot of spray paint over it when I'm done to keep rust at bay for the next few decades or so.
It's often awkward to do, what with it being under the dash, but it's worth it.
Also worth it, and totally in the category of overkill (which is just barely enough in my book), is to "bond" the instrument cluster to the dash, the dash to the body and the windshield frame to the body.
All this takes is you making three extra little short jumper wires with ring terminals at each end to mount to a convenient location.
For the windshield frame, I like to use the corner there by the door, where it can hide under the big chunk of door seal rubber and out of sight.
If you were real industrious, you could do it from underneath and near where the wiper wires go. But that looks like such a hassle, I've never even tried.
Any old 14ga wire would do the trick in these instances. You just want to make sure you have something to supplement the mounting screws of each of those components.
After things get powder coated, it's not too surprising things don't connect very well the old way.
Good luck.
Paul
