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Where to start body work?

josimps2

Full Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
198
I've got a 77 Sport that has some pretty serious rust issues going on. I don't think I need to replace everything but there are definitely some areas that need attention. I was considering buying a welder and some panels and trying to replace some items. I've got two questions... I've got so much rust in different areas that I wouldn't know where to start. How do I determine what panel to replace first? I don't want to weld new metal onto a another piece of metal that I want to replace as well. My second question is what type of welder will do a decent job that is good for a beginner and will not break the bank?
 

JHD

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Messages
587
Loc.
Colorado Springs
Pictures would help. It really depends on what you are replacing. I've got a 110 miller don't know the model or price off hand but it has done everything I need it to. Get some gas too.
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,408
Ive got a Clarke 125EN with gas that works well for sheet metal work.

Post some pics but most will start replacing the structural pieces first - floors, cowl ect and move to the panels last to ensure that everything will line up correctly.
 

hammer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
Just remove everything and start from there;D

I had the same questions before I started. Someone shot me a pic of the entire side removed. It never dawned on me to do it like that. I was thinking much like you are that one piece comes out, one piece goes in, one piece comes out. So I Braced it, removed the floor, post, kick panel, inner fender and went from there. I didn't have to replace rockers.
 

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TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
A mig welder with gas is a very good thing when doing sheet metal work. I had very little welding experience when I tore into my body work and did not have gas. Lets just say I learned my lesson (it wasn't that bad really, but now that I've welded with gas, I can't see going back to welding without it).

As for where to start - pictures would help, but in all reality your best bet is to tear down about as far as you can - remove all the interior, pull the dash, examine the cowl area, and maybe remove the front fenders and grill. Once all the sheet metal is exposed you'll start to see what needs to get replaced first. I don't know what your definition of "serious rust" is but sometimes they are pretty far gone. Front floorpans are not terribly difficult to replace, neither is the flat section of the cowl above the firewall in the engine bay. As for the rest, its a judgement call based on your skill level. How is the outer "skin"? If this is going to be a trail rig and the rockers are rotted, cut them off and build some skis.

Good luck!
 

bighorn

Full Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2007
Messages
324
I've been rebuilding my bronco body over the last year. I've replaced the floor pans, tunnel, seat platform, kick panels and door post right and left, both inner fenders, both inner and outer rockers right and left, the cowl and windshield channel,and both lower quarter panels.

My best peice of advice is to start with the lowest structural member to be replaced and work from the bottom up. Make sure you brace everything and measure everything before you start. When you put it back, use self tapping sheet metal screws to put it into place and recheck all you measurements, including hanging doors, or fenders, before you weld it up. You'll find that the aftermarket panels fit diifferent and even though your measurements are the same it may need something a tad different to go back. The measurements just gets you close, fitting get's it right. I found that out the hard way.....more than once. Then just remove the screw and plug weld it back.

A 110V gas shielded mig is suffucient for bodywork. Don't bother with flux core, you'll just end up cursing more than welding. A lincoln, Miller, or hobart can be had used for not too much coin and consumables are easy to find. Try to get one used with a bottle...you'll find a new bottle costs near what the used welder cost.
 

JohnJohn

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,159
Loc.
Richmond
Are you located in VA?

I am in northern VA and can offer some help/advise.

I would recommend locating a copy of the Spike TV Trucks shows with Stacy David. He walked through a Bronco rebuild in sevral shows. I have all of the shows on my TIVO and it was very valuable for a first timer.
 

Explorer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
4,390
Loc.
Raphine, Virginia
Are you located in VA?

I am in northern VA and can offer some help/advise.

I would recommend locating a copy of the Spike TV Trucks shows with Stacy David. He walked through a Bronco rebuild in sevral shows. I have all of the shows on my TIVO and it was very valuable for a first timer.
Funny you should mention that Bronco. I have learned a lot of good tech tips from watching his shows, but I mentioned it to another member yesterday who had actually seen it and he said the quality of build was surprisingly not that good at all. Mainly the body work which was farmed out if I remember right.
I'm in the Shenandoah Valley and looking for other Bronco owners close to get together and help each other out.
Original Question: I'd start with new body mounts, gives you a level field to start with and shows up your problem area's
 
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