Wild Horses Premium Steering Wheel HELP!

[diggs00]

76 bronco, auto - stock column:

I purchased this with the Stock Style 74-77 Column 1-Post ($65.99) 2977 adapter.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...Spoke-Slots-14in/bronco-steering-wheel-custom


Question 1: How does the turn signal cancel?
Question 2: Does the adapter have to be oriented in any certain fashion on the column?
Question 3o I just hammer the adapter on the splines? It will not easily slide on, I tried a would block and hammer.

Here are pictures:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5VaMsrMLRojLXg2SXl3SW10RjQ?usp=sharing

Thank you!

 

[75MIKE]

The 2 holes in the back of your adapter will take a couple roll pins. That will be for your canceling. Should be in your kit.

Shouldn't have to beat it on. Use the nut to suck it down. Can't see how much gap you have after the final tighten.

 

[EPB72]

THe adaptor should slip down farther on steering shaft with no effort, clean splines maybe poor finished machine edges ...Also in your pic that adjustable slip ring with set screw is installed backwards the tapered end towards steering wheel …..Be careful with the cancel pins if there out to far and catch the cancel cam on the switch wrong they can break the dog legs pretty quick

 

[904Bronco]

You may have to use slightly longer roll pins and they might need slight adjustment inwards/outwards.
Orientation - yes, with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, the two roll pins should be centered in the turnsignal switch,between the arms of the switch, so that you have turnsignal cancelling in the appropriate location.

 

[diggs00]

Ok tried to suck it down with impact gun, this is close as I could get it
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17-d0ujs4v92TGl6zg2wQjAg1ggWgHCxh/view?usp=drivesdk

The Longer copper plunger now just touches, the smaller plunger doesn’t .

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18aqNXudAzOK4NBWBdFy5h1giClg-7_3Z/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[75MIKE]

That isn't right. What steering wheel did you have on there before?

 

[diggs00]

It was a grant wheel,

Curious do I need both copper plungers of the switch touching he copper plate of the adapter?? I have seen some turn signal switches with just one plunger and not two. My ride is a ‘76 if that makes a difference.

 

[904Bronco]

You may have the wrong adapter...

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/19144/bronco-steering-wheel-custom

This one says that it is for a two post horn, the number you listed above is for a single post?

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you the original owner? Did you change out the turn signal switch, or is this how you bought it?
I've never actually seen a turn signal switch that looked like yours, but that does not mean the factory didn't use something like that. However this is what I'm used to seeing on a '76: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Manual_Turn_Signal_Switch_7477yr/Bronco_Stock_Column_Parts
Has just a single horn contact, like the description of the adapter and the fact that it's got just a single copper plate on the backside.

Frankly, I don't remember ever seeing an adapter with the contact plate sitting so proud of the base either! But then it is adjustable, with that small set-screw visible in it's collar.
Maybe yours has more adjustment than I've had to use before, but if you loosen that screw see if the sleeve/collar will slide down far enough to cover the gap.
This is a feature to compensate for differences in columns and shafts.
If your retaining nut is tight and you have a couple of threads showing through the top, then you're probably bottomed out correctly on the splines and taper. Don't keep trying to crank it down farther.
If the nut is just barely engaging the threads however, something is certainly amiss.

But check that turn signal switch first. Let us see the backside of the Grant adapter while you're at it.
And test for 12v at both of those copper contact points. You really should only have one, and it's just a ground when pushed. But maybe there were variations I'm not aware of.

And sorry about that hassle too. But this is definitely an oddity from my experience.
And I should add that there is almost nothing on a vehicle short of a wheel lug stud that you use an impact driver on to pull something up Especially if it's made from aluminum!
At least not that I can think of anyway. If something don't fit, something's wrong and needs to be cautiously sussed out.
I suppose there are other things that might take a cinching with an impact. Maybe the others can think of some, but I can't think of any.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[diggs00]

Are you the original owner? Did you change out the turn signal switch, or is this how you bought it?
I've never actually seen a turn signal switch that looked like yours, but that does not mean the factory didn't use something like that. However this is what I'm used to seeing on a '76: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Manual_Turn_Signal_Switch_7477yr/Bronco_Stock_Column_Parts
Has just a single horn contact, like the description of the adapter and the fact that it's got just a single copper plate on the backside.

Frankly, I don't remember ever seeing an adapter with the contact plate sitting so proud of the base either! But then it is adjustable, with that small set-screw visible in it's collar.
Maybe yours has more adjustment than I've had to use before, but if you loosen that screw see if the sleeve/collar will slide down far enough to cover the gap.
This is a feature to compensate for differences in columns and shafts.
If your retaining nut is tight and you have a couple of threads showing through the top, then you're probably bottomed out correctly on the splines and taper. Don't keep trying to crank it down farther.
If the nut is just barely engaging the threads however, something is certainly amiss.

But check that turn signal switch first. Let us see the backside of the Grant adapter while you're at it.
And test for 12v at both of those copper contact points. You really should only have one, and it's just a ground when pushed. But maybe there were variations I'm not aware of.

And sorry about that hassle too. But this is definitely an oddity from my experience.
And I should add that there is almost nothing on a vehicle short of a wheel lug stud that you use an impact driver on to pull something up Especially if it's made from aluminum!
At least not that I can think of anyway. If something don't fit, something's wrong and needs to be cautiously sussed out.
I suppose there are other things that might take a cinching with an impact. Maybe the others can think of some, but I can't think of any.

Good luck.

Paul

Paul,

I am not original owner and did not change out the switch. It had a grant wheel adapter, seen here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PDz9s1T0l46Krx8eyzMqii5AuKX08pND/view?usp=sharing

I managed to get the adapter sucked down a bit more, and found the adjustable collar will hide the gap:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dAmIzySO04jTw9YYzNxQ-qeWXsMgAM_p/view?usp=sharing

I sucked the adapter to the last thread using impact wrench and the shaft nut:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wXysXT1XXs_67m8jExufWQ4ZY-joTwah/view?usp=sharing

Should i order a new 1 post turn signal switch?

 

[diggs00]

Also the reason the adapter will not slide on easily looks to be the taper on the steering shaft seen here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H8Wz9VGqL-OqLfFKeu_7h9x5xoELC0d9/view?usp=drivesdk

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe you have one of those "unicorn switches" that I'm always talking about that nobody seems to have anymore because they've long since been changed out. (or they didn't exist except in my mind!)
That's partly the late '73 and very early '74 switch, where it had the integrated hazard switch of the later switches, but the double contacts of the early style.
Even '74 had it's own unique steering wheel from the factory. But we're getting down to the wire to prove out my memory, because we just had one member with a relatively early '74 that still had all the later model stuff. So we'll see.

But yours being a '76 and having the 2-post type, might mean that at some point someone could not find a '76 Bronco replacement and used one from another type of vehicle.
The late seventies pickups had several variations because some used relays and others did not. Plus some had tilt columns and yet others did not. I was not aware that a full-size truck switch would fit an EB column though, so maybe it was from something else.
Or is just one of those oddballs.
I think I'll go back and watch the steering column video we did (it's on our site) where we swapped columns in our Blue '76. Maybe there is a close enough shot of the original to compare to yours.

Your old Grant adapter was the correct type (visually at least) for a 2-post switch. See how the copper traces are split into two separate parts? That's the indicator that it is for a power circuit type, where 12v comes in on one wire/contact, then back out the other one when you push the horn button.

So for now you need to at least check what's going on with your switch.
If you use a jumper (like a screwdriver if you don't have a piece of 12ga wire) to touch the two contacts together, if the horn honks then you have some oddball setup.
Also just check voltage. See if you have 12v (or whatever the battery is reading) up at one of the contacts and let us know the wire color.

Does your rig have anything unusual, such as air-conditioning or power take-off options, or the like?
Just reaching for anything right now.

I'm just not sure that the "normal" '76 turn signal switch will fit. Would have to compare it more deeply to your existing one to be sure.
In the meantime, after you test things to see what's going on you may have to put it back together the old way if you want to drive it.
Of course, it'll "work" this way with the new wheel since you say you were able to attach the adapter, but it won't look right with that gap. And it might bugger up the contact pins and their plastic supports.

Let us know what you find with the voltage tests.
And check out the other thread about horns just below yours about how to test the horn relay under the hood. The relay you "should" have on your '76.

Paul

 

[diggs00]

Paul,

You see any reason why I cannot get the adapter closer to the column? Any fixes you know of?

 

[diggs00]

Maybe you have one of those "unicorn switches" that I'm always talking about that nobody seems to have anymore because they've long since been changed out. (or they didn't exist except in my mind!)
That's partly the late '73 and very early '74 switch, where it had the integrated hazard switch of the later switches, but the double contacts of the early style.
Even '74 had it's own unique steering wheel from the factory. But we're getting down to the wire to prove out my memory, because we just had one member with a relatively early '74 that still had all the later model stuff. So we'll see.

But yours being a '76 and having the 2-post type, might mean that at some point someone could not find a '76 Bronco replacement and used one from another type of vehicle.
The late seventies pickups had several variations because some used relays and others did not. Plus some had tilt columns and yet others did not. I was not aware that a full-size truck switch would fit an EB column though, so maybe it was from something else.
Or is just one of those oddballs.
I think I'll go back and watch the steering column video we did (it's on our site) where we swapped columns in our Blue '76. Maybe there is a close enough shot of the original to compare to yours.

Your old Grant adapter was the correct type (visually at least) for a 2-post switch. See how the copper traces are split into two separate parts? That's the indicator that it is for a power circuit type, where 12v comes in on one wire/contact, then back out the other one when you push the horn button.

So for now you need to at least check what's going on with your switch.
If you use a jumper (like a screwdriver if you don't have a piece of 12ga wire) to touch the two contacts together, if the horn honks then you have some oddball setup.
Also just check voltage. See if you have 12v (or whatever the battery is reading) up at one of the contacts and let us know the wire color.

Does your rig have anything unusual, such as air-conditioning or power take-off options, or the like?
Just reaching for anything right now.

I'm just not sure that the "normal" '76 turn signal switch will fit. Would have to compare it more deeply to your existing one to be sure.
In the meantime, after you test things to see what's going on you may have to put it back together the old way if you want to drive it.
Of course, it'll "work" this way with the new wheel since you say you were able to attach the adapter, but it won't look right with that gap. And it might bugger up the contact pins and their plastic supports.

Let us know what you find with the voltage tests.
And check out the other thread about horns just below yours about how to test the horn relay under the hood. The relay you "should" have on your '76.

Paul

OK did some checks:

Jumped the two posts together : nothing
Jumped lower post to steering shaft: get noise from relay (relay attached to inner passenger fender)

Voltage:
Upper post - nothing
Lower post - full power

Wire color:
Lower post has blue/yellow wire at switch

Relay has 3 wires coming out of it:
Yellow/green (goes to horn i think)
Yellow (power?)
Blue/yellow (I believe that is the wire that connects to blue/yellow switch wire under dash.)

vehicle is stock no special options

 

[DirtDonk]

I must be missing something because I can't see how to get it closer. The taper sets the depth, so unless you're running up against plastic strong enough to resist the torque on the nut, I'm not sure.

What about taking the switch out and letting it hang out of the way? Seems like the switch would just snap in half if the adapter was pushing up too hard against it, but then maybe something is holding it up.
Even if so though, you'd only gain maybe 1/8" or so and that's not enough to close the gap I see in the pics.

It's possible the adapter is made wrong I suppose, but there is still the fact of the mis-match between the switch that I expect to see in your column and the one that's in there.

Maybe someone knows more about columns than I do, but seems like there was a lock ring in a groove on the shaft to keep the shaft spaced up just right on the bearing. Maybe there is a second groove and it's in the lower groove? If so, moving it to the upper groove would lower the shaft (including the part showing in the engine compartment of course). But that doesn't really make sense, and since the old wheel and adapter seemed to work and not have a gap, it just seems wrong.
I'm going to consult others at WH, but I'm really hoping someone that's intimately familiar with Bronco columns can chime in.

I don't really think changing the switch to what I consider the correct one for your year, is going to change the height of the body or the distance that the adapter can slide down the shaft. Just not sure 100% is all.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

OK did some checks:

Jumped the two posts together : nothing
Jumped lower post to steering shaft: get noise from relay (relay attached to inner passenger fender)

Voltage:
Upper post - nothing
Lower post - full power

Wire color:
Lower post has blue/yellow wire at switch

Relay has 3 wires coming out of it:
Yellow/green (goes to horn i think)
Yellow (power?)
Blue/yellow (I believe that is the wire that connects to blue/yellow switch wire under dash.)

vehicle is stock no special options

Well this explains at least part of why the horn never worked. The other adapter with the two copper tracks had no way of completing a circuit that was not there, and it was never designed to just ground one of them to the shaft.
The fact that you get a click from the relay when touching the bottom one is a great sign! At least the circuit is working up to that point.

Didn't you say you jumped the yellow wire to the Yellow to Yellow w/green at the relay connector? I don't see it, so maybe it was another discussion, but if you have and the horn honked, then it sounds like maybe the relay is bad. The click is the telltale that the horn button contact is grounding and closing the switch inside, but the power is not making it out to the horn.
If the horn did not honk when jumping the wires at the connector then that needs to be addressed as well. If you did not check that yet, go ahead and jumper the two wires inside the relay connector and see if it honks.

Does not cure the adapter issue, but at least it's another step in the game.

Paul

 

[diggs00]

Paul,

I think i figured the gap problem.
The upper shaft explained below from driver to firewall.

Shaft:
Threads - adapter splines - taper - clip grove - shallow spline texture - clip grove

I had the bearing sitting too far towards the firewall: WRONG
Threads - adapter splines - taper - clip grove - shallow spline texture - clip grove - bearing
This made the upper shaft protrude farther towards the driver, creating that gap.

I now have the bearing sitting on the "shallow spline texture" area.
Shaft:
Threads - adapter splines - taper - clip grove - shallow spline texture (bearing rides on this) - clip grove

Now I think the PO had the wrong (2 posts) turning signal switch installed.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great detecting work! Sounds like progress!

Compare the screw locations to the one in our pic, but I bet they're the same since someone recently swapped in a newer switch with the integrated hazard into their older column. Things are looking up and maybe you can even keep some of your hair intact!;D

Paul

 

[diggs00]

Great detecting work! Sounds like progress!

Compare the screw locations to the one in our pic, but I bet they're the same since someone recently swapped in a newer switch with the integrated hazard into their older column. Things are looking up and maybe you can even keep some of your hair intact!;D

Paul

Yea i thought this was going to be the easy part of rebuilding the column .

So I looked at this, and mounting holes look similar:
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Automatic_Turn_Signal_Switch_7477yr/Bronco_Stock_Column_Parts

Should I go ahead and purchase this one post switch?

 

[DirtDonk]

I can give that a tentative yes. Kind of hard to guarantee at this point of course, and I don't want to sell you something that does not fit. But I also think confidence is pretty high at this point too.

And another thing I noticed. Does your existing switch even have a light socket to illuminate the PRNDL indicator? If not, the new one is going to be a nice surprise when you can see your shift indicator after dark!

Paul