Wire Removal for Tub Swap

[Jeff10]

Hey,

I know this question has probably been addressed a number of times... I'm just not sure the question is the same.

We'll be swapping tubs soon. The PO used a Ron Francis fuse panel, and I believe wiring kit for the Bronco. The way it was rewired is pretty unique in that all of the switches are on top of the center console, and the fuse panel is inside the console.

I am in the process of prepping the tub for removal from the chassis. I'm running out of time, and I'm thinking that one way to speed things up is to remove the wiring without trying to salvage it.

Another option is to remove everything at the console and fish the wires back through to the firewall and then to the parts in the engine compartment. I just don't know if I have the time to do that.

Anyone struggle with this same issue?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[landshark99]

you should be able to unplug most if not all of the harness between the engine bay and the interior, exception being the two runs along the fenders but those should pull through the holes. Unless you are going to solder or buy another harness I would try to keep it whole.

Can you cut out the wire loom and make it easier on yourself when you pull the runs? are you able to pull them from the engine into the interior?

if its in the center console they might have spliced in excess wire maybe to get it there.. but they got it in.. you should be able to get it out

Sorry not much help besides advice from the peanut gallery

 

[thegreatjustino]

I wouldn't cut up a nice Ron Davis harness. Take the time to do it the right way IMHO.

 

[ransil]

should only take an hour to disconnect everything and feed it back to the dash, remove the dash with all wires as you pull them back thru the firewall.

 

[Jeff10]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

Sorry.... I meant to write "Ron Francis" not "Ron Davis".

I'll see if I can disconnect the field terminations and pull it back like you recommend. There are some things that might not work out so well, such as the way additional splices were made at the rear of the tub for additional backup lights. I'm just not sure everything will feed back through the holes in the tub without cutting off the connectors.

I probably won't be reusing the dash (there are some very nice Auto Meter gauges) because I would like to go back to a more stock look.

Because of using a different IP and relocating the fuse panel and all switches from the IP to the fuse panel, I'm not sure how much of the wiring can be reused. Pictures would make more sense... not sure if I will have time to post today, though.

Thanks for the input.

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

What kind of time frame are you working with Jeff? I'm not sure how much time would be saved buying a new harness and starting fresh, vs using the existing one. I can see the concern over having the wires long enough to reach the panel in it's new location, wherever that might be, but I bet most of the wires will work.

All of the wires from the front half of the vehicle will be long enough, since they're already extended farther back than normal to the console.
Any rear wires that don't reach could easily be extended without too much dram a I would think. Since "most" circuits to the back of the truck are super basic, like tail lights, backup lights, and the odd fuel sender or two.

Without having seen the rig first hand, it is hard to tell, like you say. But on the surface, it sounds very doable. Since the RF fuse panel lets you simply unscrew each wire, as long as it's labeled you should be able to quickly put it back in place.

So while a new harness might make you happier if you have a brand preference already, I'm with the others that say to at least consider giving this a shot and seeing how far you get before making the plunge into a new replacement.

Good luck either way.

Paul

 

[jmangi62]

I would disconnect everything and re use it,I have to get a whole new harness and start from scratch,very expensive piece,even the cheaper ones are aprrox.500$,good luck,Jim

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Guys,

I need to be done with it by 09:00 in the morning... along with more work than I am comfortable doing.

I will post pics after the fact. I was able to salvage the rear part electrical runs.

Almost all of the wiring is run inside rigid metal rectangular tubing (like a conduit). The run between the console and the firewall is extremely tight with just wiring. I won't be able to pull the terminations through the conduit.

I appreciate what you're saying about reusing as much as possible. I think my present plan is to cut the terminations off the wiring at the console, pull the wiring back to the firewall through the conduit, and then pull as much as possible from the engine compartment into the interior. There is a lot of custom wiring for the MSD system, on-board air, and other things. Nice features; but, making this part a little tougher than it should be.

I'll keep at it.

Thanks agian for the input.

Jeff

 

[Jeff10]

Hey,

Update!

About midnight Friday night, I was ready to give up. The wire fill in the conduit-like tube was beyond tight. I tried pulling the heavier gauge wires (power feed and ground) through the conduit at the firewall. Pulling on the firewall end, and pushing at the console end worked until I couldn't push any longer. I couldn't pull... it just wasn't giving. I didn't want to pull the smaller gauge wire for fear of breaking the conductors or tearing the insulation. Ron Francis used a different of material to keep the front running lights and headlight wiring together. It was a little smoother.... it took a bit of persuasion; but, one of the front lighting harnesses was able to be pulled through. Then a second, and then things freed up. Eventually everything came through. (In addition to the stock type harness wiring, there were quite a few other conductors that the previous owner wired between the console and his custom dash.)

Thanks to you guys, I did salvage everything for the front half of the Bronco, and it all looks to be in great condition. The harnesses for the rear will probably be too short; but, there are far fewer of them. It all worked out really well.

Thanks for all the input.

Jeff