Wiring Harness Opinions (painless or generic universal)

[nvrstuk]

I used 23 circuits easy & could use more.

 

[ntsqd]

I used 7 circuits just in the console of my current project. I think that I may have gotten just a little carried a away......

 

[904Bronco]

My issue was less about the extra circuits getting in the way.. and more about paying $600 for those extra circuits that I would never use, and some unknown something that I was not yet aware of that made the full bronco specific harness worth that extra $$. That's why I chose to go with the generic Painless harness and a bunch of rolls of Tesa tape. In fact, I'm particularly excited about putting the fuse block on the firewall and not integrated into the glove-box.

Okay going back to the beginning... As I said in one of my posts in Clifford, in talking with the AAW folks at SEMA their specific kits are designed for the user that has never rewired a vehicle and will probably only do one in their lifetime. So they tend to put all the options that you might need. Painless also uses Ford specific colors on the wires. So there is a cost for all of that. The finished kit that Centech once sold was simple and relatively complete, > easy to install.

So in rereading you first post, it is about spending $$ for something you probably won't need. My reply to Paul's post was similar, your spending X-amount of dollars on a harness and then you just cut off the extra wires... Seems like a waste.

So I endorse your train of thought, I can spend less and still accomplish a rewire with a universal harness. I wasn't questioning it...

Tesa tape is the good stuff... With some wire loom and split loom mixed in as needed Doug.

 

[Got4wd]

Any update on this as I’m in the same boat as the OP

 

[Skidd]

I have the wiring harness about 1/2 installed. So far so good. It's doing everything I want. I love where the fuse block ended up.. so much easier to access than if it was in the glove box. I bought on of the Painless Wiring specific Relay modules that clips right to this fuse block, and run it off of the "Coil" circuit for the Fuel Pump. So, the Edelbrock ProFlo4 sends the signal to the relay, that then provides relayed 15A fused power to my fuel pump. That said.. the engine bay wires, and tail wires are all wrapped and run to their rough areas. Under-the dash is far from done still too.

So.. cliff notes.. it's working out perfectly. but.. I'm far from done.

Oh yeah. and I did actually add a separate ciruit though. Only because I ended up putting in BMW E92 Electric seats.. so .. I needed a dedicated circuit for them. The 10A accessory cirtuit I think is too low for these seats. So.. I just added a dedicated accessory BUSS bar (one of those multi post models from Amazon), And it's own 30A fuse, and tapped into one of the expansion ports on the fuse block. If I didn't add these electric seats, I'm convinced that the number of circuits I have would have been perfect.

 

[nvrstuk]

So.. I just added a dedicated accessory BUSS bar (one of those multi post models from Amazon), And it's own 30A fuse, and tapped into one of the expansion ports on the fuse block. If I didn't add these electric seats, I'm convinced that the number of circuits I have would have been perfect.

That last sentence is going to come back to haunt you!

Keep your Bronco long enough, drive it long enough and you'll be adding more circuits!

 

[ntsqd]

When I have the option in a project vehicle I like to add a second battery, which becomes the 'house battery' and all of the electrical loads that I might want to run w/o the key are powered by it. Stereo, comms radio, fridge, etc.

Otherwise, yeah, can almost never have enough extra circuits.