Wristed Radius arm vs. Extended Radius Arms

[77BroncoWag]

The only thing I didn't like about my wristed arm was the pulling of the pin every time you wanted to play offroad and have flex. Then at the end of the day trying to get the pin back in there. It was just like my darn Jeep with the sway bar disconnects. It gets old quick. I like having my extended arms and getting out to lock or unlock the hubs and you are gone. No more trying to find a rock to park on or a buddy to jump up and down on the bumper to get the holes to line up to get the pin in or out.

Bingo! what he said above!!!!!

 

[TOMKLU]

I went with the Duff's arms for the above reasons, that stupid pin. Do the wristed arms allow for a tighter turning radius without rubbing the tires? Like the Duff arms.

 

[Unregistered]

first, the wristed arms allow for great flex...on a ramp. The problem is that the rigid side will produce AS while the other will not. So say you are flexed on a rock and give it gas, the left side is going to rise..which is bad. It also has an adverse affect on braking--say you're goin down a hill and hit the brake, its going to act like it wants to roll also. That being said, I made my own wristed arm cause i could for real cheap, and I can deal with the adverse affects, and I dont mind putting the pin back in...you guys dont take any time before hitting the trail to air down, lock the hubs, and check the rig out?

 

[Howdy]

I went with the Duff's arms for the above reasons, that stupid pin. Do the wristed arms allow for a tighter turning radius without rubbing the tires? Like the Duff arms.

The writsed arm will not allow for a tighter turning radius unless you are using wheel spacers ;D You would have the same turning radius with the wristed as if it were not wristed. No difference than stock.

 

[Howdy]

first, the wristed arms allow for great flex...on a ramp. The problem is that the rigid side will produce AS while the other will not. So say you are flexed on a rock and give it gas, the left side is going to rise..which is bad. It also has an adverse affect on braking--say you're goin down a hill and hit the brake, its going to act like it wants to roll also. That being said, I made my own wristed arm cause i could for real cheap, and I can deal with the adverse affects, and I dont mind putting the pin back in...you guys dont take any time before hitting the trail to air down, lock the hubs, and check the rig out?

It only takes me a couple minutes to air down, 10 seconds to lock in the hubs, and my rig is checked out before it even leaves to driveway to hit the trail. When you get to the trailhead is not the time to check your rig out to see if its trail worthy. That should have been done before you left your house.

After I air down and lock the hubs I don't want to now try and find a rock or something to drive up on to release the tension on that pin so I can pull it. Maybe mine was just tighter than others and some people don't have as rough of time. Then at the end of the day you better hope you didn't go through any mud. Cause thats when the fun begins, reaching in there to get that pin back in and trying to keep the muddy and dirty tire and fender off you. Not to mention if the pin only goes halfway in and you have to now get under there with your hammer to pound it all the way through.

Now don't get me wrong. The wristed arm has a place. If you can do one for cheap it is a much better way to go than stock if you wheel on rocks and need the articulation. Paying $350 like that one place wants is a waste of money IMO. When you get to that price range go with something like the Duffs or the WAH. Another thing to think about with the wristed arm is spinning the axle tube. Like it was mentioned it would be a good idea to plate the non-wristed arm along with beefing up your rosette welds for added protection.

 

[tonto]

first, the wristed arms allow for great flex...on a ramp. The problem is that the rigid side will produce AS while the other will not. So say you are flexed on a rock and give it gas, the left side is going to rise..which is bad. It also has an adverse affect on braking--say you're goin down a hill and hit the brake, its going to act like it wants to roll also. That being said, I made my own wristed arm cause i could for real cheap, and I can deal with the adverse affects, and I dont mind putting the pin back in...you guys dont take any time before hitting the trail to air down, lock the hubs, and check the rig out?

I really haven't noticed this issue and the braking issue I've heard about but I tend to keep mine pinned when doing high speed driving or anything other than moderate speeds, and mine tends to pin easily by keeping a smear of grease on it.

Exactly what I was thinking, sounds like one of the biggest advantages of non-wristed arms is convenience?
A lot of folks have been running wristed arms for years, I don’t seem to see a mass swapping of them out for extended arms or a WAH because of pinning, braking or non-wristed arm bending and I have yet to bend my non-wristed arm (all though its on the list to be reinforced).
I think it basically comes down to preference.
I do think the Duff arms are the best bolt on for more articulation and the WAH seems to be a good choice also.
With the Duffs I would weld and reinforce the frame mounting brackets with some triangular gussets between the bracket and the frame, looking at the bracket and the way it’s just bolted on doesn’t look strong enough to me, but that’s just me.
I seem to feel lately as though folks are building there Broncos faster than they are developing there wheeling skills, by this I mean maxing out what they have and then moving up to the next level, like getting a feel for what there low range feels like or where there roll over point is.
Just my $.02, Francois.

 

[Waverous]

My question is for daily driver use. Looks like JD's gives the best correction for backspacing and castor. I don't trailer my EB to the trail and I love driving around town. I have always been concerned about the wristed arms for the braking issue at 70mph on the highway and feel that they aren't the best solution for a DD - am I overly concerned? I would like to (and probably will) do the WAH, but it still like the clearence the JD extended arms gives. Any input?

 

[tonto]

My question is for daily driver use. Looks like JD's gives the best correction for backspacing and castor. I don't trailer my EB to the trail and I love driving around town. I have always been concerned about the wristed arms for the braking issue at 70mph on the highway and feel that they aren't the best solution for a DD - am I overly concerned? I would like to (and probably will) do the WAH, but it still like the clearence the JD extended arms gives. Any input?

The braking concerns with a wristed arm are when un-pinned only, at least that’s been my interpretation of what has been estimated.
I would have no concerns about driving my E.B. as a daily driver with my wristed arm if I needed to.
Its been told to me and I’ve read several people with extended arms say they feel much more body roll, nothing dangerous, and double shocking seems to alleviate this, but then you have the stiff front end from having to run double shocks.
I think with or with out a wristed arm stopping an E.B. at 70 M.P.H. is a concern with a lift and larger tires and the short wheel base.
Good luck in your decision, Francois.

 

[Howdy]

My question is for daily driver use. Looks like JD's gives the best correction for backspacing and castor. I don't trailer my EB to the trail and I love driving around town. I have always been concerned about the wristed arms for the braking issue at 70mph on the highway and feel that they aren't the best solution for a DD - am I overly concerned? I would like to (and probably will) do the WAH, but it still like the clearence the JD extended arms gives. Any input?

As long as you have the wristed arm pinned while driving on the street you will have no braking issues at all. A wristed arm drives excellent on the street when pinned because its just like the stock arm. I wouldn't be concerned with one on a DD unless you liked to drive with the pin out. Then its a real handful.

 

[Waverous]

Thanks Francois,
I was hoping either you or Howie would pipe in on my concerns. The one thing that I like about JD's arms is the return of a turn radius with over sized tires. Don't want to go full size axles but I would like to have more turning radius - as it is, I hit the radius arms with my rims and tires now (33" BFG Muds, 15x8 rims with 4" backspacing). I am concerned when I dump these rims and tires to get the 35" BFG's on 15x10 with 3½" back spacing, I will still hit the radius arms

 

[Waverous]

As long as you have the wristed arm pinned while driving on the street you will have no braking issues at all. A wristed arm drives excellent on the street when pinned because its just like the stock arm. I wouldn't be concerned with one on a DD unless you liked to drive with the pin out. Then its a real handful.

Thanks Howdy - I have toyed with the thought of wristing but it still didn't give me the radius arm/tire clearence I need

 

[howiebilt]

Wow what a discussion ! Seriously , I think some folks would complain about being hung with a new rope .

Does anyone have an idea of exactly how much turning radius you loose when running a fat tire with a stock radius arm ? I would also like to find out how much the turning radius is affected by lowering the tire pressure . Is the complaint about loosing turning radius or just the annoying sound of rubber rubbing on the radius arm ? Here is an inexpensive fix for the situation .
Get a piece of pipe or tubing approximately 2 inches in diameter and 4 to 6 inches long and cut it in half lengthwise . Place the half pipe on the radius arm in the location where the tire rubs on it and weld it on . This will give the radius arm a nice smooth rounded area to rub the tire instead of a squared edge .
For those who are running the pins ... at the end of the day , leave your hubs locked in and turn the wheel all the way to the left (assuming you have pinned the passenger side ) then all you have to do is push or pull the right front tire in a gentle rocking motion to get your pin back in . By having the tire turned , it opens up the wheel area so that you can get to the pin area so that you don't get all dirty or muddy . Once the pin is secured , don't forget to unlock and move your transfer case selector lever to 2Wheel High and you are ready to escort Miss Hilton back to Wal-Mart ;D ;D

 

[Waverous]

Wow what a discussion ! Seriously , I think some folks would complain about being hung with a new rope .

What are you saying Howie?%) LOL!
It is kind of the best of both worlds thing - I guess. Ideally (I think this works) I would like to run a WAH with JD arms. I figure that would allow for the articulation and give me back another ½ a turn or so on the Bronco as well as a little better castor

 

[howiebilt]

What are you saying Howie?%) LOL!
It is kind of the best of both worlds thing - I guess. Ideally (I think this works) I would like to run a WAH with JD arms. I figure that would allow for the articulation and give me back another ½ a turn or so on the Bronco as well as a little better castor

I agree ! ideally it would be nice to have an aftermarket radius arm that would allow for maximum turning and nothing beats the WAH for articulation , without reinventing the the front set up (like a 4 link or modified 3 link system). The one thing I can say about the WAH is that it takes all of the bind out of the front end and allows for maximum articulation without any adverse conditions . The extended arms only minimize the amount of bind in the front end but they do allow for less noise upon full lock to lock turning . I have 3.5" of lift and no castor/camber problems and I am still running the 2.5 degree poly bushings in the "C's"

 

[griff]

I don't know what you guys are talking about when you say you have to find a rock to get your pin back in. I just park on flat ground and can pull mine out and put it in easily evey time.

The only problem I see with the wristed arm is that it puts alot of stress on the other arm. I would be interested in seeing how some of you beefed up the other arm.

I would be happy with any of the three choices, but wristed is the one that worked out best for me.

Also, if someone was having a problem putting the pin in you could design a spring loaded pin that you could lock out, then when you put it in it would go in as soon as the holes lined up.

 

[45acp]

ok, im gonna help a friend of mine do a wristed arm here in the next month. we want to brace the other arm. ive searched, but cant find any good pics of a braced arm. can someone help with a link or 2? i assume you just box it in, but would really like to do it right/learn from someone who has "been there/done that".

when finished, he will have roughly the same travel as my full JD kit w/arms an hoops for less than 1/3rd the $$$. oh how we live and learn.

 

[Howdy]

ok, im gonna help a friend of mine do a wristed arm here in the next month. we want to brace the other arm. ive searched, but cant find any good pics of a braced arm. can someone help with a link or 2? i assume you just box it in, but would really like to do it right/learn from someone who has "been there/done that".

when finished, he will have roughly the same travel as my full JD kit w/arms an hoops for less than 1/3rd the $$$. oh how we live and learn.

Brace the non wristed arm, just like the wristed one. If you aren't sure how to do that maybe someone on here has some pics or you can always do a search on POR and find some.

As for the cost of the JD arms for me it was more of a matter of caster. I have 5.5" springs and run the 7 degree c bushings. Still not enough caster. I was left with 2 options for getting my caster back. Buy some extended arms that had caster correction built into them or cut and turn my knuckles. I can't cut and turn them myself so for a shop here in town that has a jig set up to do it would cost $4-500 dollars. The JD arms cost me $475 in the mass buy and I sold my wristed arm for $150. The cost of the $325 was made up in selling off some old Jeep parts, so in the end the Duff arms cost me nothing. As far as I am concerned they flex just as well as a wristed arm and now the bronco is a pleasure to drive on the highway again.

 

[77BroncoWag]

As far as I am concerned they flex just as well as a wristed arm and now the bronco is a pleasure to drive on the highway again.








;D

 

[Lttrbox]

All the above was good reading, but I was wondering what everyones doing with the track bar. As I understand it, the bind in the front is created by the axle rotating one way or the other as one tire is compressed or dooped. The WAH, wristing, or extended arms relax the resistance to the rotation, but the track bar is still a solid mount. Doesnt this tend to wipe out the track bar bushings if not relieved?

BTW, I just fixed this on mine with a Hiem joint on one end. Ya, may be a problem in some states, but not here.