Yukon super U-joint ??

[brixter]

Anyone useing these on there axles or know of anyone that is ? I am rebuilding my D-44 and need some feedback .

Thanks

 

[astark]

Better read these

http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/search.php?searchid=221587

Start at the bottom

Edit
Sorry guys, the link does not work. But if you search by Yukon super U-joint there are more than a few good reads.

 

[SaddleUp]

I am and have been real happy with them. I've put some serious stress on my front axles on several occasions since I installed them (About 6 months ago). I tried to look at the link above and comes up dead. (I was curious about what others had said)

 

[BroncoBoy69]

well iv just had theses axles in for a few months now and i like them they are way way beefer than stock. the only thing i hated about them i dont know if every one had this prob or it was just me. but the freaken axle wouldnt fit threw the knukle. so i had to gride down on the mettal i could around the ujoint caps with out taken to much off then still had to make my hole biger in my knukle with a stone. but other than that seam like there going to hold up rather well. plz any one tell me if youv had this problem too.

 

[SaddleUp]

well iv just had theses axles in for a few months now and i like them they are way way beefer than stock. the only thing i hated about them i dont know if every one had this prob or it was just me. but the freaken axle wouldnt fit threw the knukle. so i had to gride down on the mettal i could around the ujoint caps with out taken to much off then still had to make my hole biger in my knukle with a stone. but other than that seam like there going to hold up rather well. plz any one tell me if youv had this problem too.

This is pretty common on the stock knuckles. I wouldn't advise grinding on the U-Joint or axle ears though. It is the axle ears that normally break so you do not want to weaken them. Take it off from the inside of the knuckle instead. I think I removed about 1/32" from mine so they would easily slide in. (I put them in twice before this without grinding but it wasn't easy) The reason it is a tight fit is because the u-joints on the stock axles were smaller so the diameter of the axle was also smaller.

 

[lars]

I have a set. After reading Carl Jantz' (the guy that developed them) description of the development process on the Pirate board I decided to take a chance with them instead of CTMs, and save some $$. I've got in a set of Warn axles. I don't have a heavy right foot, but they've held up with front ARB engaged pulling someone out of a hole backwards- usually a good way to snap a front u-joint. I have Ford disc brake front knuckles with the big spindle hole, so no installation clearance problems.

 

[Bart]

I have a setand couldn't be happier. Putting them in was a Bitch though. The guy was right about grinding out the center hold to let the bigger joint go through. I didn't have to grind very much though. There is a lot of parts that have to go in and I learned the hard way to make gravity work for you not against you. Whatever you do keep the cap you're installing on top. That way the little piston/o ring will stay in the cross. Turn it upside down and it fars out and is trapped between the cup and the cross and you're
F)(&*^&^$^%$'d. It'll crush the aluminum piston in no time and then you get to fight to get the cup back out and wait to get new piston and o ring to re-install. Randy's R&P does sell replacement parts. Voice of experience here. The anti-seize lub is something else. It's great but you get to wear some of it to.

 

[68 Broncoholic]

Its a good idea to grind out the inside knuckle area as much as you can.
When you snap an axle its a bitch to get the inner shaft out unless the hole is larger.