RB's 1976 Bronco Ranger

RustyButtons · Sep 19, 2018

So I'm new on the forum. Joined especially because I'm taking on this project, and I figure I'll be here a lot trying to do some research and asking questions.

I got this 1976 Bronco Ranger last week. I'm in Missouri, I got it in Oklahoma. Was originally hot ginger, but re-done inside and out in blue sometime around 1980. The original 302 runs, and sounds great. A little slow to start. A little rust in the floor pan in the driver's floor area, but the rest of the floor pan looks mostly rust free, although you can see the original hot ginger paint in areas where the blue carpet has now disintegrated. No real rust to speak of on the frame. So a little rough cosmetically, but seems like a good foundation for a restoration.

Biggest issue right now is the steering is a bit squirrelly. Something weird going on in the front end. It has 31" tires, on what I think is a stock suspension, and I wonder if that's not maybe doing something to the front end. That's the one thing that makes it feel like I wouldn't want to drive it very far right now.

Plan right now is to get it to a mechanic and make sure everything is mechanically sound - engine, power steering, brakes, transmission. Then get it to a body shop and have it painted back the original hot ginger. Then get the interior re-done in something approximating the original Ranger houndstooth interior. I spent $10K to get it, which feels like a bargain. And I figure I can spend a fair amount fixing it up and still have something that I could get my money back out of it if I ever wanted to sell it.

mustanggarage · Sep 19, 2018

looks a lot better then the truck I bought, nice project welcome. I'm a newbie as well

Apogee · Sep 19, 2018

Nice truck and welcome to the forums! There are lots of little things that can make the steering squirrelly, but it sounds like you're going to let a mechanic take care of that for you. if you do have questions or want to tackle some of those things yourself, a picture head-on of the steering linkage is always a good place to start. I know that when I bought my '77 some 15 or so years ago, it had been converted over to the inverted-T style steering linkage from the inverted-Y, but had bad track bar bushings and it was all over the road.

RustyButtons · Sep 20, 2018

Hey Apogee. Thanks! I'll attach some pictures that hopefully show what you're asking about. What they show, the most, is some pretty sad, worn out bushings. And a bit of grime on just about everything.

I couldn't get the Bronco into my mechanic until the 28th. I'd like to do as much myself as possible. But I'd like a mechanic to make sure the engine, transmission, and brakes are all sound. And the power steering is leaking, so I want the looked at. Then I'll get it home and start working on the things I can.

My initial attention has just been on taking off everything I can, cleaning it (I got a HF parts washer and sand blasting cabinet - everything is just caked with 40 years of gunk), and putting it back on. So far I've been working on the door hardware. Unfortunately tonight I somehow managed to kill the window regulator. While cleaning it, it suddenly stopped being able to hold it's position and now immediately unwinds as far as possible if you crank it at all. If anyone has any ideas on whether this can be repaired, let me know. I otherwise assume I'm ordering some new regulators.

The one thing I'm most curious about is what my prospects are for getting the frame and axle cleaned and painted. Is that something I could ever manage myself working in my home garage as an amateur, or should I just count on having to pay someone if it's ever going to get done? I mean, I know I'd have to send the frame off to get sandblasted. But I assume a sandblaster isn't going to take the truck apart, and that I first have to get it stripped down to a frame to send them. But getting the body and engine off the frame seems a bit hopeless.

sprdv1 · Sep 21, 2018

Welcome aboard.. Where exactly in MO? Got a buddy in Peculiar, started a shop, does great work if you ever want to just hand it over to someone..

Edge Restorations -- Look him up on FB

Anything you want to do your self, you can do it.. Just ask questions on here, do what you got to do

Apogee · Sep 23, 2018

Based on the pics, your tie-rod is tweaked in the usual place over by the passenger side knuckle, but if it's been adjusted after the fact, then it's probably not an issue. I would do a quick check of the toe-in, measuring between the front tires at the front quadrant and then the rear to then calculate the toe-in...or out...as that will impact the handling.

If the toe is off, then you may also see some feathering on the tires. Tire pressure can also factor in, although it tends to be a more significant variable with wider tires.

If you can get someone to turn the steering wheel while you're watching the steering linkages, you can usually figure out where the wiggle and shimmies might be coming from. My money is still on the track bar bushings being a part of the problem.

904Bronco · Sep 23, 2018

Welcome!

Looks like your rig was rode hard and put away wet! Great starter project. Be sure to get it mechanically safe and put some miles on it as those memories will be the motivation to keep the project going between the rebuilds and the paint and body work.

76 bronco J · Sep 23, 2018

>>> I'm not sure that linkage is bent.... it maybe a little ,but mine has a very very similar bend & drives/tracks very good.... noticed lots of the newer aftermarket inverted Y linkages these days look way different over by the passenger side knuckle... looking on Wildhorses & Tom's site Y-linkages shows very little bend by the passenger side knuckle.... the following from Jeff's looks closer to the stock bend >> https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Steering-Rod-Kit-Complete-1976-77/productinfo/12750/

RustyButtons · Sep 30, 2018

Do the rear brake drums have anything holding them on other than rust? I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing any bolts or anything before I go beating it with a hammer. Thanks.

EDIT: Actually, I got it. All the videos I could find seem to start with the drum already off. Taking it off sucked.

mustanggarage · Sep 30, 2018

The most important step is backing off the shoes then use the bfh

RustyButtons · Oct 1, 2018

So on the backing plate on my rear brake drum, the groove the brake shoes are supposed to nest in are basically completely worn away. Do I need to replace the brake backing plate?

Viperwolf1 · Oct 1, 2018

RustyButtons said:
So on the backing plate on my rear brake drum, the groove the brake shoes are supposed to nest in are basically completely worn away. Do I need to replace the brake backing plate?

They actually should not rest in a groove at all. There are flat pads they are supposed to rest on so they are free to move. If there is a groove its because the backing plate is worn. The pads can be welded up and ground flat.

RustyButtons · Oct 1, 2018

Ahhh... So I wonder if the grooves, where they exist, are going to interfere with the brake function until I can get them fixed. Some of the grooves are pretty deep.

RustyButtons · Dec 20, 2018

I could use some advice...

I took the Bronco into a shop today to get a 2.5" suspension lift installed, and I was asking the guy about re-building the engine. (I've been trying to get it in somewhere to get it rebuilt, but the places I've called all say they're backed up and it will take several weeks to get in.) I have the 302 V8, with the C4 transmission. The guy said the way to really go if I intend to keep it and drive it is go with a re-manufactured engine rather than rebuild the engine it has. Is that good advice? My intention had been to kind of keep it pretty close to stock. The guys going to call tomorrow with some quotes, so I was hoping for some advice.

Thanks.

Blue Bastard · Dec 20, 2018

Do a search, the engine replacement has a lot of options/opinions. My opinion, reman long block from a reputable source with a warranty. Most have options on how they are built, stock, cam, ect.

Good luck

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mustanggarage · Dec 20, 2018

I have built several engines myself over the years, just a hobbyist, but still I have built several. for my bronco I am going with a crate engine. as I began pricing it out I found I could get a nice crate engine that is already dynoed for about the same or less than I could build it. so I am going with the crate engine. if you are only wanting to have it look original then you could store the engine you have and if you ever want to go back you can build it then. if you really want the numbers matching engine then you are going to have to have it rebuilt if you don't have a machine shop to do the machine work and the tools to do the rebuild.

RustyButtons · Dec 20, 2018

Hey, thanks guys. I guess that's my question - is it a blunder to get rid of the stock, numbers-matching engine. Or is that not really a significant consideration for a truck I really intend to drive and use.

Blue Bastard · Dec 20, 2018

No real numbers matching on a bronco. Date code matching I guess. But not vin specific. So don’t worry about value that way.

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RustyButtons · Dec 20, 2018

Got it. Thanks again!

RustyButtons · Feb 20, 2019

Progress Report

So I've been busy with the Bronco. So far I've:

- Changed out the pads and shoes on the front and rear brakes. Also replaced a lot of the drum brake hardware.
- Fixed the door hardware on both doors so the locks and handles all function properly. (When I got it, the passenger inside handle and driver side outside handle didn't work.)
- Had the engine replaced with a re-manufactured 302.
- Had the C4 transmission rebuilt.
- Had a 2.5" suspension lift from Duff's installed.
- I've taken the power steering gear out, and have it in a shop to be rebuilt. It was leaking really badly. I also have a new pump on the way from TBP.
- And yesterday I received my new headers and dual exhaust system from Duff's! Woo hoo! Got the Cherry Bomb Vortex mufflers.

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