Front drums to disc......some valve/check ball to remove?

86caprirs · May 7, 2009

I know I have seen it. I did the full swap and now I need to know if there is some check ball or valve to remove? It is a manual brakes setup with the 79 Bronco disc brake swap. I am keeping it manual brakes till I can afford hydroboost.

gpete · May 7, 2009

Remove the residual valve from the master cylinder where the brake line connects to the master cylinder one closest to the firewall which is the one for the front brakes you need a small sheet metal srew to pull the cover out you will find a rubber piece with a spring and ball

rubbman · May 7, 2009

Make sure to remove it or your front brakes wont release all the way!!

67Stallion · May 7, 2009

We suppose to do this with the chevy conversion too? Will this make you need to put a disc proportioning valve in? I have stock manual mc, stock h- block, did chevy conversion, my pedal feel is great, it stops straight, no pull to one side, brakes are goooood! I did notice that when jacked up and spin the wheel there is some drag, if take the ball and spring out will the good things above stay the same?

gpete · May 8, 2009

Need to be done on all front disc conversions

No Lemon · May 8, 2009

Can someone post a picture where this residual valve is?

DirtDonk · May 8, 2009

I don't have a picture, but it's like gpete described.
Remove the brake hose from the master cylinder and you'll see a brass "cone" seat inside the port.
Find a sheetmetal screw that will screw into the hole and achieve a good grip on the seat WITHOUT DAMGAGING IT.
Pull outward and the brass piece should just pop out. Behind it you'll find a rubber plunger, ball (BB sized) and a spring.
Remove those pieces and re-install the cone seat.
Re-install the hose and bleed the system.

This is only for the hose attached to the disc brake side, as was mentioned. So in most cases it's going to be the larger reservioir next to the firewall. But double check in case yours has ever been changed (you know those pesky PO's) for some reason.

"Officially" the disc brake setup should have a 2lb residual pressure check valve and a drum should have a 10lb valve. If I remember my numbers correctly. But removing it completely seems to work fine for the Ford setups. If you ever want to do it up right though, you can get inline versions from places like Stainless Steel Brakes and other vendors and put them in the lines.

Good luck.

Paul

86caprirs · May 8, 2009

So I am not going nuts....My front brakes were holding because of that.....OK So what did you use to tap the brass cone back in?

I will try and get pics tomorrow when I do this.

DirtDonk · May 9, 2009

I actually ran mine with it installed for about a week with no sticking issues. I took it out anyway so there would be no future cause for regret. Don't want no steeking brakes on a long highway trip after all!
I don't remember any real trouble getting it back in. I think I pushed it back in by hand with the screw and then finished it off by inserting the hose and threading it in.
I may also have used a small 1/4 drive socket, or something similar, that would fit within the hole on the master, without marring the sealing surface of the cone, and gently tapped it in.
But I don't remember having any real difficulty with it. Then again, that was 29 years ago now and I'm pretty sure that I wear rose colored glasses a lot of the time. So I tend to remember the good stuff rather than the bad.
But that's just me...

Paul

67Stallion · May 9, 2009

Just went and did mine, found rubber plunger and spring, no bb-ball, put brass cone back in stepped on brake a few times thought maybe ball was stuck, never did see it! Seems to brake the same, hope fully no residual pressure staying on pads!

DirtDonk · May 9, 2009

Hey stallion. Glad you got it done. Sorry didn't see your question in the first post about the feel staying the same. As you found out though, it shouldn't change much, if at all. I couldn't really detect any difference with my Ford setup either. Sounds like you're good to go now. I'd check for the drag again anyway, just to make sure you don't have something else hanging up. But my money's on the valve having been the culprit.
As to the ball, I wonder if there are differences in the way they do it now. Or if my memory is just adding something that wasn't there. I'm still pretty sure that I got one out of mine. I'll be interested to see what others say about it though.

Paul

86caprirs · May 9, 2009

I found that little rubber piece and the spring. Took it out and bled the brakes. Then I checked the front wheels. It releases now right away. Thanks for the help guys.

Orange Crush · May 10, 2009

86caprirs, if you get a chance, I'd love to see pics of this as your whole brake setup, whatever pics you've got. I will be installing the EXACT same setup on mine here very soon. - thanks

86caprirs · May 10, 2009

Oh. Shoot. I never took pics. What info do you need? Oh and for cheap brake hoses.....I used 75 F-150 2x4 disc brake.

BurntOrange74 · Mar 26, 2011

removed my valve seat. found rubber grommet and spring. NO ball or B. B. found. what do you guys think?

BurntOrange74 · Mar 26, 2011

TTTop......

DirtDonk · Mar 31, 2011

If it has a spring and a rubber thingy, then I'd have to say that it's probably a check valve (even without evidence of a ball) and you can remove it.
I would think.
Be nice to hear from others, but a spring denotes resistance to me. There may very well be different designs over the years and models too.

Sorry it took so long to reply, but I've been "out of commission" for several days.
Or at least, more out of commission than normal anyway!

Paul

BurntOrange74 · Mar 31, 2011

Thanks for the response. i pulled out the rubber check valve and the spring. No ball found. i have real soft brakes now. i have to pump the brakes a few times then get a good stop from the chevy disc conversion. i think i will bleed the brakes again. the hoses loop higher than the valve, so i might lower the hose and bleed again. i dont like the soft brakes. the pedal almost travels all the way to the floor.

DirtDonk · Mar 31, 2011

Hmmm, doesn't sound good at first glance.
Normally, I wouldn't expect that big of a difference from just removing that part. Yes, it's there to keep more pressure in the lines at the business end, but would not normally be enough to mask air pockets so you would see only minimal (if any) additional pedal movement from removing the valve.
Sounds then, like perhaps during the procedure you did get some air in the system. I hope so anyway, since the alternative is that something else is amiss. Like a jammed caliper or something.
I would make sure to "bench-bleed" the master cylinder now though. Just in case it's resisting getting a good piston feed inside.

Really though, even removing that thing entirely like you did (even if it wasn't a pressure valve) shouldn't be causing the fluid to be pulled back into the master that far. I don't think the hoses being higher than the bleeders would do it either, but I guess it could be a slight possibility.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

Paul

zoob · Jul 12, 2011

What if the front brakes are hooked up to the smaller reservoir does this have the same cone and ball? My front calipers won't release! And theybare hooked to the front of the master cylinder

Front drums to disc......some valve/check ball to remove?

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