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1976 Stock Bronco Carb

BDK2013

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Mar 2, 2020
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14
Loc.
Duvall, WA
I have been searching for a while now but don't seem to find the specific info I'm looking for.
Which carburetor came stock on my 1976 Bronco Sport with 302. Was it the Autolite 2100, or 2150?
Also are there any specific rebuild kits one preferred over the other?

Thanks (I'm a Newbie)
 

jckkys

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Mar 15, 2012
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The '75-'77 EBs had 2150 Motorcrafts with 1.08" venturis and automatic chokes that had both exhaust manifold heat stove and electrically heated thermostats. Some had high altitude compensation, that lets in more air below the venturis.
 
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BDK2013

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Thanks, it looks like remanufactured carbs calling them selves 2100 or 2150’s have all kinds of shapes. Looking at mine there is a small actuator on the top front that some manufacturers don’t have.
You also mentioned a high altitude compensator, would that be the plate with rear facing diaphragm that sits under the carb?
 

chuck1022

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Feb 25, 2017
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When you find one......get a good rebuild and someone that cab tune it. mine (2150) has run amazing for the last 3 years.

wouldnt swap it for a 4bbl if you gave me one
 

jckkys

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I think you're describing the EGR valve that's mounted on the spacer under the carb. This;https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT...856&hash=item1ef75c79c1:g:3tUAAOSwsAVclQlr,is the altitude 2150. You would still need one with a 1.08" venturi. The bowl vent in the front of the top cover isn't used on most EBs. The large scale rebuilders are a mistake. They remove Ford ID tag so you don't know what carb your getting and they always claim it's the correct carb. It's not likely true. There was only 1 manufacturer Motorcraft.
 
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BDK2013

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The Carberator Center in California shows rebuilt motorcraft 2150's that are engine tested and set for sale.
Maybe I will call them and see.
 

tirewater

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The Carberator Center in California shows rebuilt motorcraft 2150's that are engine tested and set for sale.
Maybe I will call them and see.

Are you trying to rebuild your carburetor or buying a new one?

The rebuild kits typically cover the range of Motorcraft 2150 carbs. You'll have to match the airhorn/top cover gasket with one in the kit. Even today, parts stores still carry carburetor rebuild kits. I bought one (Walker brand) recently from O'Reilly's.

For individual carburetor parts I use Mike's Carburetor Parts:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

The most usable rebuilt carburetor I've bought was a Uremco from Summit.

The 'stock' carburetor you'd be looking for is a Motorcraft 2150 1.08" (as Jckys mentioned) with the EVAP nipple + switch on the front top. No PCV port (usually on the lower back). Then one for automatic or manual depending on your vehicle (automatic has kickdown lever).
 

jckkys

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Mikes Carburetor is a far better choice than the Carburetor Center for either a rebuilt carb or a rebuild kit. The Carburetor Center is exactly the type of large scale rebuilder I pointed out as a bad idea. The odds of you getting a correct part are minimal. Ask them if they have a 2150 with 1.08" venturis and the Ford ID tag. I bet they tossed it, so you don't know what your getting. Another point is, to not send them your carb as a core. If it's original it's worth far more than 75 bucks. They're easy to rebuild yourself. A preferable route.
 
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BDK2013

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jckkys, thanks for the advice. Looks like Mike dosen't have any rebuilt 2150's at this point and it looks like mine is missing a few critical parts (float bowl vent) so I think I will look for a good rebuilder on eBay and get Mike's kit.
 

jckkys

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The float bowl vents are cast into the top cover. They could only be missing if the top cover is missing. The vent in the front above the center of the top cover does nothing. Again it's cast into the top cover but not drilled through on most 2150s. A few in the Cal. DSO had a 1/4" nipple. These may or may not have a hose to the charcoal canister. A cast in feature is hard to be missing. My '77 2150 had a vacuum cap on the nipple, to again make it irrelevant. Any needed parts that are actually missing, can be had through Walker herehttps://carburetion.walkerproducts.com/ford-motorcraft/ford-carburetor-kit-2bbl-2100/. They also have excellent rebuilding kits.
Rebuilding a 2100/2150 is very easy and the kit will have an exploded diagram will part names, and step by step instructions describing how to rebuild and set up your 2150. Classic vehicle ownership requires a fair share of the knowledge of how things work and a willingness to learn. The large scale rebuilders depend on customers who aren't willing to learn and instead look for shortcuts.
If you still want to pay someone else, try Champion Carburetor who was Pony Carburetor. They have both rebuilt 2150s and can rebuild yours, herehttps://championcarburetor.com/7578-motorcraft-2150-carburetor-2v-108-venturi-287-cfm-remanufactured-p-10732.html?zenid=a0e277f6ee90c6e9f39ab64567d0f131
 
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BDK2013

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MonsterBilly, If your sure you don't need it anymore please pm me with a price and I could probably take it off your hands, thanks.

jockeys, my carb had and many others I have seen online still have a lever some what connected to the power valve? in front.no mine it's missing and fuel slowly weeps from the nipple that can move back and fourth.
I have seen others where the nipple is removed and sealed up but have no way of sealing mine up and after contacting Matt's they have no replacement parts for it either.

Thank you everyone for your help I have learned a lot and still learning.
 

jckkys

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I think you're talking about a bowl vent that was set up to open when the throttle is closed. This may be a Cal. model that does have a hose to the charcoal canister. The vast majority didn't have this feature. Here;https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT...ws65dwHWV:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!85711!US!-1,is a high altitude version that has this feature. If yours doesn't have the hose it would be useless. I think the rubber seal around the vent valve would be impossible to replace. I have a like new 1977 2150 top cover the factory never drilled that I don't need and you can have.
By the way, the power valve is on the bottom of the float bowl. The only input is vacuum.
 

sjohn

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Oct 9, 2021
Messages
23
BDK2013--I appreciate reading your post and everyone's reply. I'm going through the exact same issue--1976 Sport carb needed. I'm a pure--ist and hope to keep my 76' as original as I can. Before I bought this 76--someone stole the air cleaner and carb so I don't know what I need to be looking for. Reading your posts, I see I need to start looking for an Autolite 2150 with 1.08 venturis--this alone has saved me hours of searching, thank you.

Like you, I see different configurations--without one to look at, were you ever able to find a good picture of what works or part numbers to help verify the correct year/model/part?

Thanks in advance.
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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47,641
Hey sjohn, welcome to classicbroncos!
Best of luck on the hunt. Glad you have more information to work with now. There are some really good thorough discussions here as well, about the entire air cleaner assembly that you'll need for yours. Starting in 73 and running through 77 there was a plastic cold air duct that ran along the fender skirt behind the battery, from the grill area to the top of the wheel well. From there a short soft flex hose connected it to the snorkel of the Bronco's offset style air cleaner housing.
Very nice set up actually.

Maybe somebody here will post a link to one of the discussions. But you might have some fun searching for it and finding out lots of other good, but sometimes useless information about your bronco as well!;)
 

sjohn

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Oct 9, 2021
Messages
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DirtDonk—thank you for the info, I didn't know about the cold air duct.

I'm working on getting the rats nest out and will see what I can see. I'll be in touch.
 

helo-mech

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
619
1976

First pic:
Blue Arrow is the Air Duct running along the inner support.

Green arrow is a blanking plate on your EGR plate that is under the carb. This is usually what happens to the EGR plates unless you are in a Smog Enforced area such as on the West Coast.

Second Pic is the carb plate tag.

Third pic is where the flex hose connects from the duct in the first pic to the air cleaner. For some reason I don't seem to have a pic of it actually on.
 

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