1977 Bronco: Victoria Project- UPDATED FINALLY

[u10072]

Big Brakes

Here are the big F250 front brakes.....

 

[u10072]

Rust Bullet and Inyati spray in liner.....

 

[u10072]

Speaker Enclosures

Here is how I am mounting my speakers. The fronts are a 6.5" sealed box that extends into the void behind the front fenders. The rears are a 6x9 that are open in the back. The closed off portion was just to pretty close of the back of the panel. There just was not room really to make a box behind the rear panels and be able to mount them. The 77 body also has less room than the 76 and under years on the driver side. Boxes and panels are made of 16ga steel and sprayed with the liner material the rest of the interior has been done with.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, it's amazing how little room there really is around the corners of an EB. But it looks like you're making good use of whatever is there!
Great stuff. Can't wait to hear how you like your speakers. We were discussing (again) just the other day how cool it would be to add recesses into the front fender area to make the fiberglass kick-panel speaker enclosures even deeper.
Looks like you'll have the answer pretty soon.

Paul

 

[u10072]

Paul,
Well I actually ran a version of these years ago and they really sounded nice. Here is the real kicker-- if you think you can install these without the fender being removed you are totally wrong as it would be a total nightmare cutting the hole accurately and easily. I am thinking of the same concept for a 10" or 8" speaker in the passenger side rear by the tailgate. At this point I will have 6 speakers ( 2- 1.5" tweeters in the dash) so a little bass might be kind of fun To me the OEM rational on building speaker boxes is how I do it- stick the speaker in the voids where you aren't killing any realistic cargo areas

 

[Heus33]

Looks great. What is that metal baton looking thingamajigger mounted to the left of the 6x9?

 

[AaronWelch]

looked to me like a torque wrench.

 

[jmhend]

Wow, great work looks awesome.

 

[toddz69]

Looks great. What is that metal baton looking thingamajigger mounted to the left of the 6x9?

I believe that's the lug wrench.

Todd Z.

 

[BajaBronco]

Looking good and glad to see it coming together. You've done a great job of fabbing stuff up. Most guys would have just called up wall horse and went an had a water burger. (inside joke)

 

[doradoguy]

I'm blowen away by the talent of some of builders on this thread. And you my friend are one of them.

 

[blakerj10]

Can you tell me more about the F250 brakes? I thought they were only doable if one went 8 lug? Or did you custom drill the hubs? Looks killer!

 

[toddz69]

Can you tell me more about the F250 brakes? I thought they were only doable if one went 8 lug? Or did you custom drill the hubs? Looks killer!

Read all about it here:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-1206-vintage-jeep-dana-44-big-brakes/

Todd Z.

 

[u10072]

In that article the one thing they make sound easy are modifying the rotors, and that they can be modified at your local auto parts store-- well thats hog wash! I had them done on a metal lathe and the rotor material is really hard and cuts pretty slowly-- It cost me I think $100 to have the rotors turned-- it took a couple hours. The only parts you really need are the caliper brackets if you have the f150 knuckles, and the rotors. If you need more info I have the part numbers as well for the caliper holder block bracket thing and the caliper bolts. No testing yet but they are much bigger for sure-- you do have to run a bigger wheel as a 15" wont work. Its just a good reason to go with 17's

 

[u10072]

Thanks doradoguy I appreciate it!

 

[u10072]

Pre-Rock Box

Some of us out there like to use the EB as a two-seater more than using the backseat. Combine that you put in a cool rollcage and some nice seats-- you go camping, the beach, a race or whatever- you pack up the gear, firewood, tools, etc and everything just rolls around scratching up the cage and punching holes in the seatbacks!! I think many of us have gone down this road and it sucks when you put all the money and work into everything to have it scratched and torn up-especially right off the start! Anyway, putting this box in the back takes up all the room, in the back and the only tearing up is the inner paint of the box and nothing else--weight is about 75#. The Pre Rock Box bolts to the factory rear seat holes with only one more added to the factory floor. You lash everything to the box with no damage to the interior even if you dont lash anything down! Painted the outer panels to match and the inside was spray-in bedliner. It cost me a small fortune to build but with some flared holes and perforated metal for the floor I think it turned out pretty cool

 

[u10072]

Winter Shifter / Art Carr Console

This is how I mount the Winters / Art Carr Shifter. I personally dont like mounting tons of stuff on top of the tunnel because I always make a removable panel for the tunnel-- a removable tunnel just makes messing with the trans/t-case so so so much easier. The last pic is of a Stewart Raceworks/Steve Olliges pre-runner from a few years back. Its where I got the idea for the center console and especially how to mount make the little tabs to hold the shifter in place.

 

[reynard101]

Any updates?

 

[u10072]

Ive been working on another project for a bit. Got bitten by the FSB bug a little. Here is a tidbit. Had Classy Chassis do the speedometer. I was originally was going with the tachs that WH and TBP is making to match the factory speedometer. While that is cool it wasn't really cool enough Being that I had a nice Autometer Procomp tach-- that is actually a nice piece, I had Kevin and his design guys make the factory speedo match the Autometer tach-- I just thought the quality of the tach AM makes to be much nicer than the ones that match the factory speedo. Not cheap but turned out really cool after all.

A few pics of my FSB project-- "Cheryl" thats been a bit of a distraction lately...

 

[u10072]

Was able to make a tailgate cable that actually fits-- no spacers, or having to to use a ball-end Allen tool, having to use a black oxide allen that looks terrible, or using a stainless 5/16" allen that have literally no strength especially when a spacer is under the head, uses a plastic so no metal on metal contact so there are actually no rattles and the tailgate is in a flat position which is not too high -which is what happens when using the Dodge cables. The black bracket in the pic isn't needed. I wanted to use a 3/8" SS button head allen in the upper factory hole location-- the factory holes are a 5/16". So I drilled out the hole and was running a tap down into it and it broke. Being that everything is painted I just drilled out the factory "nut plate" and made another. Being that I wasn't going to do any welding to fix the issue I needed a fix. Probably technically stronger than a factory mounting point but its not needed-- just strictly for looks as trying to get the tap out was brutal, hard on the paint and unfruitful at best One thing with cables are that I love how quiet they are I can't believe they are as strong as the factory but should be great should a pair of 200 pound asses sit on the tailgate. Not good for lifting and jumping on the tailgate with concrete bags like the factory pieces.