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306 vs 347 Help

rockingm82

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
486
Loc.
St. Peters, MO
I just got off the phone with Blueprint engines and now it's time to make a decision.

306 with FiTech
390 hp
370 ftlbs torque
$4995

or

347 with FiTech
415 hp
415 ftlbs torque
$6329

The set up. NV3550 4.56 33" tires

Are the extra 45 ftlbs of torque worth the extra $1334?
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,542
The bigger question to ask them is WHEN the torque comes on. My guess with those figures for the 347 it's not coming on until high rpms. Probably the same with the 306. See if you can change the cam to something that comes on at lower rpm. The other issue is the block they're using for the 347. Ask them if it's a Mexican block. If it isn't, come back here and tell us which block it is.

This is the cam I'm running in a 347. Comes on strong at about 1200 RPM through 5000. Similar to a Comp Cam XE256H

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2370161&postcount=96
 
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bratengj

Newbie
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
6
I had this same dilemma a couple of years ago and chose the 306 because I wanted a roller motor. Not sure if that’s a deciding factor for you or not?
I wish I had your set up but I’m still running the stock 3.50 gears with a NP435 and 33’s. With my setup you have to be upwards of 2500 RPM before the 306 wants to come alive.
 

Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
950
With those numbers on the 306 you will need the 4.56 gears. I doubt that engine will have much below 2500 rpm. I see the draw of a nice crate engine but most of them have cams that give high rpm horsepower for bragging rights and not street ability. There was a guy here recently that hurt one from detonation so be careful on timing and fuel curve.

Most here will tell you just go 351 and I firmly agree. Similar torque less money than 347 and easier to keep Compression ratio under control. Less risk on detonation too due to piston design.

I went 347 to keep a very stock look and avoid a 2 or 3 inch body lift if I ever do efi.
I kept EFI parts for the future but bought a weiand manifold for $117 and a 4100 for $75 plus $50 in small parts to rebuild. Got a 96 explorer engine for $200 and had it machined for $400 plus $500 into heads springs. A few more bucks for cam lifter and scorpion pedastal roller rockers. I don't think I have $3500 in it and the stroker kit was forged pistons not hyperuectic. Careful with compression ratio if you go this route.


7795662c20d39c373d9fd08d56892930.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Landho

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
442
Loc.
Cypress, TX
I just had my own 347 built for less than $6329... and it's built exactly how I want.

If I had gone with FiTech, it would have saved me a fortune - because the '93 mustang MAF stuff and tuner and all that is WAY more expensive than FiTech. But, I had most of that stuff already.

What I had built, for less than $5000 includes roller block, machine work, forged rotating assembly, Dart top-end kit, camshaft, etc...
 

Landho

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
442
Loc.
Cypress, TX
Oh, and honestly, if I had to do it all again - I would go with a remann'd (from a reputable rebuilder) 351w w/ warranty and FiTech instead of the custom built 347 route I took. Or, can get a junk yard 351w roller and have it rebuilt for less than $2k (nicely rebuilt), then FiTech is another $1k-ish ... you still cheaper, and have more potential, than either option you list above.

Also - in the For Sale Forum - I have a custom ground camshaft for flat-tappet small-block ford (302,331,347,351) by Cam Research... includes lifters. Cheap.
 
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OP
OP
rockingm82

rockingm82

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
486
Loc.
St. Peters, MO
I'm set on a 302 block. I know the 351 is the flavor of the day, but I'm sticking with the 302.

Unfortunately, there are very few engine builders left around me. I'm in STL. Two have gone out of business and the others I can't get to answer or return my calls. I want to get this engine build started within the next two weeks. It's time to get my project moving forward again.

Thanks for the pointers. I'll be calling Blueprint again tomorrow to see what they can do.
 
OP
OP
rockingm82

rockingm82

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
486
Loc.
St. Peters, MO
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Engine-Connection/154376861264687

So this isn't the closest but these people have a good reputation. Also, did you talk to the shop that's off Droste & West Clay? Tried Button Machine Shop? I live close to Hermann but grew up in St. Charles. Good luck.

Just got off the phone with Button and they told me I would be better off to get a crate motor. The gist I got was they can't compete with crate engine pricing and warranty. He guaranteed he would be $1000.00 more than a crate with my requested specs. Plus, they see very few engine build requests these days.

This is what I've been hearing lately in my neighborhood. Basically, the machine shops don't have much demand and volume for engine builds. They're making their money performing different jobs. Therefore, there isn't much interest in building motors. My neighbor had a mopar motor sitting at a local shop in Bridgeton for a year with no work performed. He finally went and picked it up last month.

On another note, Blueprint says I can personally change the cam without invalidating their warranty
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,542
I kind of feel like you're getting beat up, but that's not really the intent. We have the best intentions for you. I did a lot of research on the same situation, looking at Ford Racing 306 v 347. Yes, they're more expensive because they use all factory parts, but they basically said the 303 cam shafts they're using to generate their high numbers make those numbers come on at higher RPMS. Crate motors are deigned for cars, not a heavy Bronco. Even Ford Racing will send their crate motor to a shop in Texas (whose name escapes me at the moment) to swap out the cams before they send the motor to you if you are putting it in a truck. My take is you'll be fine with either motor and the 4:56/33s/NV3500. The gearing will work fine for having power come on at 2500 rpm. You can always downshift when passing on the freeway. You should be OK on most trails and minor crawling if you use your transfer case to get the taller ratio. You have a 71 so a "T" D20 which has a taller gear than the "J" D20. You just won't get a lot of grunt at slow RPMs and high gear, like passing without downshifting at 60 MPH. The reason to ask Blueprint about the cam was simply to see if THEY could put a different cam in (for free) when they built it. How they work is they build engines all day long an have many in stock. You call, they send you what they have. They're not really set up to build a custom version, but it didn't hurt to ask what it might take. I think I'd push it and tell them you'd wait for a few weeks if they could put the cam in you want. Probably not going to work. As with the Mexican blocks, probably not going to hunt one down for you, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

As for the extra money on the torque, my belief, not knowing the exact details on their build, is everything else being equal, a stroker always produces more torque at a lower RPM than a comparable unstroked version. So you'll get more torque, and it will probably come on maybe a couple hundred RPM lower. Ask them to send you a Dyno sheet from each version and look. My feeling is more and lower RPM torque is worth some extra cash, but 370 is a lot of torque to begin with. You won't regret either motor.
 
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Landho

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
442
Loc.
Cypress, TX
I am definitely not trying to beat you up either... I literally just went through all of these same thought processes you are going through right now - I started my engine rebuild in November of last year, and shopped tons of crates, remans, re-builds, strokers, etc... I even purchased a bad 351 (get what you pay for). I opted for a 347 just so I could re-use many of my 302 EFI stuff (I ended up replacement most of it anyways, except for a few things like EEC and harness)...

both engines you are looking at should be good options, Blueprint engines seem to be used everywhere with success and no issues.

If you go the Blueprint route, or any crate route, I simply suggest changing the cam (which may require changing the valve springs - depends) to a more truck friendly camshaft. Search these forums or full-size bronco forums - lots of recommendations on camshafts. One that comes up often is Comp Cam XE256H

I have a custom grind for mine from cam research, but - in the end - I will be running a b303 at first... my truck is a manual, so - as long as I keep the tune for idle/low-rpm healthy it should be fine. If I had an automatic, I would not run a b303.
 
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