4R70W gurus- upgraded internals?

[rocknhorse76]

So , after rebuilding my old 351W into a 408W, my stock (rebuilt) Exploder torque converter decided that it couldn’t handle the torque from the new engine and cooked itself. I have the transmission torn down completely and have found several items that need to be replaced, including the forward and direct clutch drums. I’m already planning on upgrading the frictions to Raybestos Reds. Sonnax makes forged forward and direct drums, but I’m not sure if I really need them. Oh, and I’ve already ordered a new Hughes 2000 stall torque converter. What say all the experts?

 

[bronco italiano]

Tbowsher has lots of experience with transmissions.
Look at trans-go for update kits https://transgo.com/products/rwd-4spd-aode-4r70w-4r75w/
I know my transmission guy had the drum machined for an extra clutch too.
Had custom TQ built to how engine dynoed for peak torque.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Tbowsher has lots of experience with transmissions.
Look at trans-go for update kits https://transgo.com/products/rwd-4spd-aode-4r70w-4r75w/
I know my transmission guy had the drum machined for an extra clutch too.
Had custom TQ built to how engine dynoed for peak torque.

Yeah I’m not as concerned with valve body and accumulator updates. I have that part figured out already. I’m more concerned with clutch drum/shaft upgrades.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I reference my stuff to the old Baumann shift kits and the advise they offered up.
The better innards are from a 4R75W, the one used behind the 5.4 mod motor. Hardened gearset, a touch higher line pressure, maybe something else.
You found the torque capacity of the clutches, and you are addressing that.
Look at the stub shaft going into the direct clutch. There were 3 factory versions and a 300M aftermarket version.

 

[rocknhorse76]

I reference my stuff to the old Baumann shift kits and the advise they offered up.
The better innards are from a 4R75W, the one used behind the 5.4 mod motor. Hardened gearset, a touch higher line pressure, maybe something else.
You found the torque capacity of the clutches, and you are addressing that.
Look at the stub shaft going into the direct clutch. There were 3 factory versions and a 300M aftermarket version.

Yeah Sonnax now offers a forged direct drum with an integrated shaft that does away with the splined connection between the two components. It’s expensive but it does allow for an extra clutch fiber and steel. They also have two versions of the forward drum, with one of them also adding a fiber and steel. I’m really tempted to do both high capacity drums.

 

[nvrstuk]

You're on the right track Tim. Good idea asking here for expert advice but I'm guessing there might only be a couple that have done it to the level that you are looking for . Not just a "stockish" rebuild rules out about 3/4 of the users right there!

Good luck. I searched again on my computer for my old files with all the guts I used on mine a long time back and no luck. Could call or email (forgot his name (Dan I think) but we've discussed builds and his not yet released manual VB a decade ago) lol

Good guy, builds awesome Ford tranny's.

http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/transmissions.html#4r70w700


Here's his parts list. I talked about him before but never sent the link (don't know why). Text me later
http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/pricing.html

 

[rocknhorse76]

Haha yeah I figured it would be a long shot on here. Not many guys dumb enough to snow wheel like you and I do!

 

[rocknhorse76]

You're on the right track Tim. Good idea asking here for expert advice but I'm guessing there might only be a couple that have done it to the level that you are looking for . Not just a "stockish" rebuild rules out about 3/4 of the users right there!

Good luck. I searched again on my computer for my old files with all the guts I used on mine a long time back and no luck. Could call or email (forgot his name (Dan I think) but we've discussed builds and his not yet released manual VB a decade ago) lol

Good guy, builds awesome Ford tranny's.

http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/transmissions.html#4r70w700


Here's his parts list. I talked about him before but never sent the link (don't know why). Text me later
http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/pricing.html

That’s exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks Brian!!

 

[nvrstuk]

Thx for calling, I keep spending all your money but look how much I saved ya... lol might have to have an adult beverage at the Whipsaw!

 

[bronco italiano]

You're on the right track Tim. Good idea asking here for expert advice but I'm guessing there might only be a couple that have done it to the level that you are looking for . Not just a "stockish" rebuild rules out about 3/4 of the users right there!

Good luck. I searched again on my computer for my old files with all the guts I used on mine a long time back and no luck. Could call or email (forgot his name (Dan I think) but we've discussed builds and his not yet released manual VB a decade ago) lol

Good guy, builds awesome Ford tranny's.

http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/transmissions.html#4r70w700


Here's his parts list. I talked about him before but never sent the link (don't know why). Text me later
http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/pricing.html

SIlverfox has an excellent reputation and he won't be cheap.
He may recommend manual valve body, as he did for my build, that is miniscule in power compared to yours.

 

[nvrstuk]

Everything from color to wheels to seats in an EB is personal but I wanted a ton of options. Here's why I didn't go manual VB whether it's "Silver Fox" or maybe somebody else's manual valvbody is three things:

1- you no longer have an auto- ever not an option. Sometimes you need to shift just when both hands are needed whipping the steering wheel around as your sliding around trying to stay out of trouble when hammering the throttle when wheeling. Just happens more than we think. Plus you can sip coffee or eat an ice cream cone when cruising at 20mph in town.

2- with the US shift stand alone controller you have both options with 2 tranny's, the 4r and the 6r. You also get full adjustments of line pressure, shift points, etc, etc, etc and you can do all this with 4 different tunes available with the twist of a knob when moving or sitting.

3- manual valve body you have to roll thru the gears when approaching a stop (no problem) but when shifting from 4 low to 4 high lets say and you are moving because you need to keep your momentum you have to go from low range 4x4 from 3rd gear to 2nd to 1st to neutral then shift into high range then go back to 2nd then to third- you've already lost your momentum. You could also go from low range 4x4 to neutral but you can't just go from 3rd to neutral without hitting 2nd then 1st THEN neutral then shift the tcase then back to 1st and 2nd and since you've lost momentum you have to start all over again. Whereas with the P, R, N, D, 2 shift pattern you can just pop the trans into N, then t-case into 4hi (all in about 1-2sec w/o losing much speed), hit the gas and the trans will shift down to 1st or whatever gear it needs quicker than you can and your not stuck.

They way we snow wheel we go thru all this several times a day depending on the snow. Or after an obstacle on a trail and you can just keep moving instead of having to come to a complete stop. Not an issue if wheeling with a group as you end up waiting anyway but snow is different.

Those can be huge benefits with the stand alone controller

 

[rocknhorse76]

Definitely not interested in a full manual valve body. I’m very happy with my Quick 4 controller.