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Beefy axles.

Steve

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 5, 2003
Messages
2,986
Loc.
Grand Junction, CO
I break at least one Youkant every time I go out wheeling. But the superjoints are great and they have never given me flak on my returns (honestly 19 or 20 give or take 2 either way). Question is Steve, do you drop coin for a different brand for the same thing that comes from the same foundry overseas and milled here in the states? I'm not sure if the new Alloy USA thing is up and running at the new manufacturer yet or not.

I bought the Yukon shafts and Yukon Super Joints from Randy's R&P. They're great about warrantying them, but constantly changing shafts on the trail, then shipping them back for warranty replacement ain't worth it IMO. I finally gave up and got my $$$ back from Randy's for most of them. I still have Yukon short side shafts in my 44, but have Warns in the long side. I've never broken a Warn shaft. Yukons (and others probably) come from India and they're junk.

How am I fixing this issue? I have a HP kingpin D60 in the garage that's getting swapped in this winter. :cool:
 

evil69

fawkin classy
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
1,950
Loc.
Athens, GA
Yukons (and others probably) come from India and they're junk.

:cool:

Not probably, for sure and the info is out there. Most of them get their stock from the same place and machine them here. I was not able to get refunded from Randys. So I am getting every last freaking penny worth in materials and shipping I can from them.;D
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
So how are you ensuring that you're taking the same amount of material off both sides? Or is it really not that important on the axle assembly? I would think that if the cuts are uneven from side to side and the u-joint sits off center it could cause some vibration issues...

Also, you're not applying the same treatment to the driveline u-joints are you?

Just grind until the snap ring fits - the u-joint will never be off center because you are not taking material front the top of the yoke - you are making a flush cut. The snap rings cold the u-joint exactly in the center - you are only modifying the bottom 1/3 of the ear... eyeball it. The snap ring has to clear the bottom of the hole in the yoke and has to be flush so the snap ring fits into the groove on the u-joint cap.

I'm not doing anything to the u-joints on my driveline. I've NEVER broken a u-joint in my driveline before, not even doing horrendous 2wd low hopping burnouts for extended amounts of time. U-joints on an drive shaft have external snap rings - axle shafts have internal snap rings...
 
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